WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

I need some help. Don’t have my2019 RRT01 with me and i’m about to order some stuff from KD but i left the notes with ’19 RRT reflector size.

If someone can take meassurement of new rrt reflector that would be great.
Wanna get OP for my other mod.
If it’s posted above please excuse my lazyness.

I have not seen any posts about reflectors for the 2019 model

only the Original RRT-01 has Kaidomain reflector options, because moderator007 bought several to test and shared the info

The reflectors for the Original do not fit the 2019 model

so… if you feel your 2019 reflector is not adequate, you will need to buy a few to test, and report back on which one works for you

if you want to mod your Original RRT-01 reflector, the kaidomain part numbers, as well as a centering ring that fits are here:

Thx John!
Already booked original KD replacement reflectors but i want to try few options for 2019 rrt.

Only i need size of the stock so i can go for possible options on KD

It was about time to post my poormans 2019 RRT triple mod.
Since i’m not a man of photos i only have 3 of them but you’ll get the idea

First, open and disassemble the head as already posted many times. Remove the driver and MCPCB.
I have used replacement driver from Jetbeam which has longer led wires so instead of soldering extra length needed for triple build, i had to cut them.
Open first beer and start filing 3UP MCPCB…
Since i didn’t meassure anything i had file and check physicaly fitment in the bottom of upper part of the head (see photo)
After 3rd beer MCPCB with emitters was ready for thermal adhesive (glue) and to be installed in the head. I have Phoby2, 2-component epoxy.


Next day i’ve stuffed the original led board opening in brass portion of the head with thermal pads which can be found in KD store (don’t have a link now)
Now Carclo 10507 was about to be filed which i did, again few beers helped me and at last i had a correct size for installatio.
Please note that neither MCPCB nor Carclo were perfect round circle due to hand tools!

Once you tighten the head back on the brass section, the only thing that’s left is soldering led wires, installation of Carclo, original lens oring and lens (with the bezel ring).
And that’s it.it can be done in few hours (1-2h) but alcohol and wife were crucial factirs not to.
Thermal pads are transfering heat from MCPCB to the bezel since i didn’t have heatsink at that time. MCPCB in this build seats high above brass section, in the bezel.

I have to add that one member shortly after sent me machined alu piece according dimensions of the section where stock led board seats and is to be installed when bezel and barss are connected. And of course i didn’t took a picture and i just realized i don’t have optics photo…damn it.

I believe most of you are familiar with the tasks required to be done once you see pics but if any info is needed, just shoot.

Oh yeah, if someone can post dimensions of stock 2019 RRT01 reflector that would be great.

Where can I get an aluminum spacer?!

My RRT01 original from recent GB, moded and legoed

Nice 18650 Lego :slight_smile:

Are there any replacement LED boards available? Reflowing the LED is beyond anything I could accomplish.

Very nice lego indeed. :+1:

not sure I understand your question, but I think the answer is no

does post 568 answer your question?

and are you asking about the 2019 RRT-01 or the Original RRT-01 from 2012?
and what kind of LED replacement are you looking for?

If I understand the question correctly, any led in 5x5mm (xml, xhp50) size or smaller 3.5x3.5mm (xpg,xpl,219c,219b) at around 3v forward voltage mounted on a 16mm mcpcb could be filled down to fit.
A copper mcpcb would be better. Finding one just depends on which led your looking to replace it with.
KD sells a few on 16mm copper mcpcb’s. http://kaidomain.com/Flashlight
The 10mm might even work with out doing anything but soldering the wires on.

Hi,

Single LED, Nichia 219B/C or optimally E21A in a 2019 RRT01.

I was hoping for this, thank you! :slight_smile:

Thank you both!

Clemence has expressed doubts about the ability of a single E21a to handle the power of the 2019 RRT-01.

Since I like to live dangerously, I just put a 3500k E21a into a comparatively lower powered V11r.. I like the LED very much… I got mine reflowed onto a 10mm board by Clemence, so all I had to do was solder in the star.

you will need to make a decision about what color temperature you are in the mood for

unless you know you like warm, I suggest you go with something cooler… like a 4500k

… I suspect Clemence knows what hes talking about, the E21a LED may not be the right choice.
some people like the SST-20
others like the LH351d.
both are brighter and less pink than the 219b and E21a nichias…
(I avoid the 219c, its brighter but for a snob like me, “too” green…
however, moderator007 is a wizard when it comes to sourcing parts… and when he talks, I take notes)

Im still in my Pink sw45k N219b phase…

Interesting. I found my Astrolux S41 with the 219C to have the most neutral white light. No green, but this was maybe just luck? Actually, I dislike the Samsung (Wuben E05-I) for its greenish tint at 5000K.

I have both SST-20 (D4V2) and E21A (Folomov EDC C2) at 3000K and am convinced that the color contrast is much better with the latter, so this would have been my choice. A really nice LED! But if it can’t cope with the current of the RRT01, I’ll go for the 219C. Quality of rendering is more important to me than color temperature.

Getting a good bin led is pretty much luck. If your buying a specific bin and are guaranteed that bin then chances are high you’ll get that bin.
If your just ordering a specific color then it’s just sure luck if you end up with a good tint. If tint in a specific color is what your after then I would try someone who gives you the specific bin you want. With out the bin code your playing the led tint lottery. There’s alot of led group buys that go on here just so we can get a good bin led.
There’s also some sellers who specialize in good bin tints with high cri like Clemence.
You might contact Clemence and see what all might be available in either a 16mm mcpcb that could be filled to fit or maybe he has offerings that would work in 10mm. He offers a led reflow service, I think for a dollar.
He also has a store. https://www.virence.com/shop

I used a 10mm board from Clemence, reflowed w E21a. in my V11r

I am very happy with it.

so far so good :slight_smile:
but its not in a 2019 RRT-01, which has higher output

since Unheard is OK with the tint of the 219c, I think your link to the 16mm board w 219c is a higher output option… as long as hes OK grinding down the diameter of the board to fit the 2019 RRT-01

Need beam shots of that E21a mod :stuck_out_tongue: maybe compared to the 219b sw45k.
Nice looking upgrade jon_slider, very well centered. Thanks for sharing. :+1:

best I can do until daylight, which helps my iphone auto white balance to bias more to daylight white balance (and makes the sw45k look more pink and the warmer LEDs look warmer… anyway… here are some shots for now)

I hope this next one does not confuse people, it uses a white balance closer to incandescent

this shot may also be helpful, Im trying to compare my warm LEDs to each other

bottom lines
the 3500k E21a is whiter than incandescent, which makes it useful in the evening

and the 3500k E21 is slightly more pink than the 3500k 219b 9080 (though its hard to catch that in the pics)… I prefer the E21a to the 3500k 219b, also because I feel the E21a does a better job with making reds and blues pop… I was a bit disappointed with the sw35 9080… a bit too yellow

I especially like the 3000k 219b, it has a nice sunset orange effect, not really easy to capture in the photos… Im not really that fond of 3500k myself, though I know it is a popular option, so Im experimenting…

I like the sw45k and sw45 for daytime EDC

the warmer LEDs are fun in the evening, before bed, on the nightstand, in full darkness… they are closer to firelight

I like both choices… a cooler one, and a warmer one, for different scenarios

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and some lumen data before and after the e21a mod

Initial V11r lumens on 16340 w
6000k low CRI XM-L2 was 0.01 low and 420 lumens max (spec is 1 lumen low, and 570 lumens max w 16340, neither spec was remotely accurate)

after the swap to
3500k High CRI E21a, 0.02 low, and 255 lumens maximum, that is a 40% drop

I dont mind giving up lumens for CRI
the color rendering of the E21a makes me very happy… totally worth it… I seldom use more than 100 lumens… the rest is gravy

I have to admit I ordered the 10mm PCB. My last experiments in grinding down a MCPCB ended in touching the solder pads. I was never happy with that, ordered another, smaller board and had some fun centering it (SST-40, M20 Warrior S with SX pill). Amazingly, all worked well. Yes, I’m a novice here :blush:

Thanks! And wow, that’s more or less a symbolic price.