OSRAM CSLNM1.TG & CULNM1.TG 1mm², CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG 2mm²

Hes thrown a real spanner in the works because i now cannot decide on using an L2 host or a Jax z1 i was sure the jax was going to be the better choice but now im on the fence again

I have both just do the Z1. Slightly smaller package, less modding and cheaper with already good lens.

The z1 looked like the perfect host for a CULNM1.TG… but i wasnt sure if the L2 had an advantage in heat sinking? (i think im just looking for a reason to need both)

The L2 has a pretty good shelf vs big brass pill of Z1. However, you know the L2 mod requires specific $37 lens from marinebeam and 3D printed parts.

The Z1 you only need I think 22mm driver and new LED and mcpcb.

Yeah, its got to be the way to go, what driver did you go for?

How does a White flat Z1 stand against something like acebeam w30?

White Flat Z1 = ~385kcd

The 4040 one might get you to 400kcd.

I had a driver I pulled from a Nightwatch flashlight that is around 4.85-5.0A linear driver, just a bunch of 7135’s. Something like this (I have no experience with this store or product):

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32995993197.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32838161477.html

I think my signature has a link to some posts about my Z1 build. In general, while it probably doesn’t have as high candela, it is more impressive than my MF02.
Edit: nope, but my post history will. I’m not on a computer right now or I’d find them myself for ya.

CSLNM1.TG in an Emisar D1S around sunrise with hanging fog.

:sunglasses: pic!

Liking all the pictures on this page!

The_Fat_Controller, don’t forget you get a flood option with the Z1 :slight_smile: If you’re anywhere near Devon i have a Z1 with a white flat you can try.

Well I ordered a Z1 to host my precious new emitter in received from Led4power today, Really nicely packed an sealed and the reflow looks expertly done!! , I also ordered the Convoy L6 , what can i say… I have a problem and banggood baited me with their 30% off promotion…

Anyway I’ve now read this thread start to finish 3-4 times excellent posts from many of you one thing i would really like to know or see is some kind of chart that references emitter lifespan with amps, I note some of you want reliability and some of you want the fastest standing quarter. it would be nice to have even just some estimates of emitter life vs current

For example (Assuming well mounted in a good thermal host)
at stock 3 amps 10,000 hours
at 4 amps
at 5 amps
at 6 amps
at 7 amps (A few seconds)

Unless i’ve missed it that doesnt seem to be covered on here

Lol, well you can let us know how the two compare.
And by ‘problem’ i assume you mean ‘healthy interest’ :smiley:

You wont find that anywhere. How is anybody supposed to get that data? We are driving these LEDs outside the official specs. Realistically you will never have problems if you don't go right to the edge. The internal temperature of the LED is the important thing here.

If you worry about lifespan it just means you don’t have enough lights yet :smiley:

I do led testing but not that type and you will never get that data I can tell you. Led failure is a chance proces so the set-up is at least 10 leds per current, so 40 leds for 4 currents, 40 independent current controlled power supply outlets totalling at 800W, continuously burdening my electricity bill for say half a year. And at that is a lifetime measurement on just 1 singel led.

Also, if I had to guess continuous output vs repeatedly turning on/off from cold might be different

So basically then if you want to have to reliy on the flashlight , like as a survival tool you just want stock 3 amps??

Not asking for exact data , an experience based opinion would be fine, if i run a white flat at say 4.5amps is it going to last hours , days , weeks , months , years ? typical based on experience how long does one usually last or is it totally random?

LEDs are very interesting in the power cycle department. Traditionally, incandescents are affected strongly by power cycling and the related thermal expansion/contraction stressing the filament. Flourescents (and compact flourescents) have always fared even worse with power cycling - the 10,000 hour CFL bulbs we all got sold 15 years ago were great for fixtures that were on constantly or at least for long periods at a time and rarely cycled. LEDs themselves don’t care a whole lot about power cycling, especially within rated specs. That’s why LEDs have been used for anything that blinks for as long as it has been practical. In the case of residential LED bulbs, it’s almost always the driving circuit that fails.

But I could see LED power cycling being an issue eventually, especially in above-spec applications and especially with things like bond wires. But the thing the manufacturers seem to care the most about is operating temperature in general, rather than temperature cycling. Might be worth a look into research papers on the subject.

As long as you’re keeping the LED cool enough, I’d expect it to last a while. Many months if not years of continuous use. I’m sure we won’t see the rated 50k or 100k or whatever it is hours, but I’d be surprised if we hit the output degradation threshold sooner than 10k hours. Which reminds me, the way LEDs are typically rated for lifetime isn’t a failure point, but rather a lumen decay issue. When I worked on the retail side of things, the primary bulbs we sold were rated for 80% output after 25,000 hours for “22 years expected life”. I know the % varies depending on who is rating what, but it’s probably usually 75-80%.

If your re-flow or cooling is inadequate it could be hours. Most of the LEDs that die around here die in hours or after the first few turbo uses.
If it survives that and you have good firm contact with heat sink and appropriate cooling it will probably last a lifetime of normal use. You may see some total brightness decrease over time but this is like single digit percent drop over years. Lets just say your switch will probably fail before your LED.

edit: what Scallywag said.