Time to MoD the Jetbeam RRT01

I think I tried that listed damping grease from another vendor a while ago and found it too thin. I also use Nyogel 767a from oveready. It’s a thick damping grease and works wonderfully in my control ring lights (v10/v11/rrt01 etc).

I have Nygel767 and i find it not so thick and gets fluid like in temp around body temp and higher which can leave nasty stain in your pocket.

But that’s my point of view. My flashlights are used hard at work so some rough usege will tell you really quick what’s the story with all this parts.

I have played around and experimented with several different lubes and grease in rotary lights. The RRT-01, V11R really are not that finicky about the type of grease. As long as it does reduce friction and has more than a medium viscosity for damping. Even the cheap XY-2 damping grease will work good in these. The aluminum rotary’s will have several grease’s that will work fine.
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On the titanium version rotary’s is where things get tricky. What works good on the aluminum version may not work good at all on the titanium version rotary’s.
I tried several lubes and read up on all the suggestions with past experience, then I started searching for speciality grease for titanium and stainless. Stainless has some of the same Galling properties of titanium. What I found was that almost ever lube, grease out there to prevent galling of titanium and stainless used PTFE (Teflon) as a ingredient. Teflon is white in color and can be purchased in powder form to add to about any oil or grease you wanna try. https://www.amazon.com/Runaway-Bike-PTFE-Powder-Teflon/dp/B00W61ET9E
You ever cook a egg in a non- stick frying pan, Yelp Teflon (Dupont PTFE) coated pan. That’s another subject but you know how slick they are.
It is also the main ingredient in “Slick 50”.
The Tef-Gel works really well for a smooth feel ring but it has a high viscosity, so too much and the ring becomes slow to turn. To much damping.
The Tef-Gel is white in color, probably because what I think is a high concentrate of Teflon, hence the name Tef-Gel.
The Munky Spunk also is whitish cream in color, pretty sure it has Teflon in it, since it is special formulated from darksucks for titanium threads and prevents galling a Teflon trait.
What I found was Teflon was the key to a good smooth feel control ring in titanium rotary lights like the TCR-1 and V10R but more so with a used TCR-1 were some wear has already taken place.
The very best recipe I have managed to come up with to date is about 60% munky spunk and 40% Teflon powder mixed in. Very smooth feel (no grittiness) with medium viscosity for a slight damping of rotation. To me its about perfect. Going a little higher in percentage of Teflon starts to raise the viscosity and the damping but very smooth feel, just harder to turn.
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When I took apart my last older model RRT-01 I made sure to pull off some of the Jetbeam factory lube and have a look. They used a clear white grease. That doesn’t mean its Teflon based but it makes the possibility higher. I did ask Jetbeam one time just what did they use on these rotary lights but they never got back to me with a answer.
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As I have modded my rotary lights I try different things every time I got one apart. I purchased some of the “Finish Line Extreme Flouro” which is suppose to be a spin off of Krytox (Dupont) that I will try in the next one I take apart. I’ll try it by itself then try it with Teflon added to see if it improves. Every lube I have tried improves by adding more teflon, the Tuf-Gel doesn’t need anymore. It already has a high concentration I think, It would get to thick to use anyway if I did add more.
I’m still searching to see if anything is better in titanium rotary lights but right now the king is Munky Spunk with about 40% Teflon added. From everything I have tried off the shelf Teflon is the key for smoothness in titanium rotary lights. I would be very interested to hear how adding Teflon powder to some of your favorite lubes, grease works for you. The aluminum versions benefit also from adding Teflon but you can really feel the difference more so in the Ti versions.

Thanks for clarifying, I appreciate and respect your experience. Im not a hard user, seldom do my lights get hot. I have had a V11r in my pocket for the past week, it is lubricated with 767a and Ive had no leaks nor stains, and no indication that the lube is melting into my pocket.

Im glad moderator007 chimed in, you can see that there is the potential to add teflon to any lube, to make it better.

I chose 767a based on how popular it is with posters I have read, and I wanted to try it for myself. So far, Im very happy with it. Im sure there are many other options that can work.

btw, thanks for suggesting the Eye15 driver, I contacted Fanny and she sent me this photo

Im planning to order a couple of those drivers, to learn how they act at low voltage, so far I have only tested 4 other drivers, original 2019 RRT-01, Eye10, Original RRT-01, and TCR-1.

The first 2 have strobe, which I like, the last 2 do not have strobe, but the drivers are all the same size and I have swapped a 2019 RRT-01 driver into an Original RRT-01 without issue.

I will report back on my low voltage test of the Eye15 driver.

Thanks for sharing info :slight_smile:

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I do not believe the Jetbeam and NiteEye drivers are compatible with Sunwayman, but I tested the low voltage behavior of the stock driver on a V11r, that I modded to use a 3500k E21a.

My V11r, blinks at 2.38v

it does not blink at 2.89v, gives 110 lumens

at 3.5v it gives 175 lumens…
at 4.08 v gives 225 lumens (thats the max, using the 3500k E21a)

these magnetic rotaries are not flat regulated, lumens fall as voltage drops… I find that convenient, it gives me visual indications of a draining battery, and I can test my light on a lightmeter to get an idea of battery charge, even before opening the light and testing with a DMM.

I do wish there was a true LVP shutoff at 3v in these lights, so will be looking forward to testing the Eye15 driver to confirm if it shuts off, as id30209 is informing us.

I see a new groupbuy coming :slight_smile:

Cannot post a video cause my flashlight lab is closed due to traveling.

Eye15 driver is a buck driver and works 3-8.4V, not bellow ;)

Thank you!
the spec I found is
https://www.fasttech.com/product/1343102-niteye-eye15-cree-xm-l-u2-500-lumen-3-mode-led
Working voltage: 2.7-8.4V

Sounds perfect for my RRT-01 use style, as i like the strobe option, and never use cr123 (they stink, and i dont get free supply)

Or at least a new ad:
WTShare High CRI Nichia in Original RRT-01 host w LVP, a tight hotspot, and buttery smooth dial. :wink:

jon_slider that seems like strange behavior with the blinking at below 2.38v with the V11R. I tested mine several times before and after mods to the driver. These drivers are boost direct drive drivers. Mine worked down to .7v I believe was the lowest I saw before it shut down. The V11R with the extender is designed to use a AA alkaline battery.
Maybe some thing is wrong with the boost circuit part of the driver.

Yes, my V11r is probably not normal… or its really smart… or my blink results are caused by using depleted CR123 instead of a power supply…

My V11r blinks below 2.5v to warn LiIon users, but then does not blink at 1.5v when using AA… (I dont own any 14500 so cant report), but I just installed an AA extender and an energizer alkaline…

with an alkaline that is at 1.48v it makes 65 lumens max, and does not blink. for me the AA option is pretty much a waste of time… 1/4 the output of 16340 and makes the light bigger and heavier… (Im not an AA user)

with the stock LED, on 16340, it only made 420 lumens and after the E21a swap lost about 40% and now makes about 250 lumens max

the lowest mode is between 0.01 to 0.03 depending on the battery…

I absolutely Love the E21a 3500k LED, and just ordered a few more to test… I want to make E21a work in an RRT-01 with a reflector…

Im researching the Eye15 and have learned that it does blink when voltage gets low, but I dont yet know at what voltage…

I also found the cutoff voltage for the eye15 driver is 2.7v

and that the lowest low is 5 lumens (deal breaker for me, if true)

I have ordered 2x Eye15 drivers to test for myself…

Over-Discharge Protection: When the battery voltage becomes low, the EYE15 begins to flicker and then strobe on and off. … The one thing I want to really highlight for improvement here is the need for a lower low. … 5 lumen low

The blinky with low battery your seeing with the V11R could be the same thing I noticed with the New model RRT-01. I tried reducing the voltage down to .7v a step at a time with a power supply and saw no blinky. But when I reduced the current down a step at a time, at .44ma the blinks should up. I had almost forgot about the new RRT-01 driver behaving this way. WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion] - #152 by moderator007

I had a original RRT-01 apart today and tested the “Finish Line Extreme Flouro” in it. I didn’t like it that much.
It did make the ring smooth but offered almost no resistance or damping to the rotation.
When I took it back apart the grease looked like it had dried up, kind of cakey looking. Pretty sure it has a high concentration of Teflon but it doesn’t offer the stickiness of a damping grease. It still offered smooth rotation but it turned freely with no resistance.
I mixed up a batch of 60% Munky Spunk and 40% Teflon and it worked perfectly to my liking.
Smooth with no grittiness and a slight resistance in rotation.

nice!

thanks for sharing your product research

Using Nyogel 767a Im also getting smooth with no grittyness w more or less resistance, depending how much I use.

I like to be able to adjust the control ring brightness with one finger, deliberately, but I dont like too low dial resistance that will let me bump the brightness by mistake, when I dont mean to.

The damping effect of 767a is excellent, in both my recently modded Original RRT-01, and my V11r. In both lights, the amount I used the first time, only a couple dabs in the groove in the control ring:

gave slight damping, and when I doubled the dose by adding 767a to the other half of the dial, the damping increased proportionately, in a way that I like.

I especially like that the 767a smooths out the grittyness of the ball bearing on the RRT-01… The V11r is easier, no ball bearing…

With the damping grease, that was my experience also. The more you add the more resistance it offered in ring rotation.
I think me and you like about the same feel in the ring. I want it to turn smooth with some resistance but not too much.
If others are repacking their grease on these rotary lights, just experiment a little to get the feel you like.
If it turns to freely add more grease, if it is to hard to turn take a little out. Find what you like and go with it.

The original Eye15 used PWM not constant current. Mr. Nobody, the OP, knew this to be true.

thanks!

well… another strike against the Eye15 drivers I just paid for

Im wondering if you have any tips on where you like to put the grease?

green, red or blue? :wink:

(not a trick question… total newb here)

Where it says here means all the way around. Just a quick paint edit.
I grease all contact points of the rotation.
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Source for sapphire crystal

for Eye10
mingswear sapphire
20x1.5mm and confirmed the dimension is accurate
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5mm-Thick-Flat-Sapphire-Watch-Glass-16mm-to-50mm-Crystal-for-Watchmaker-G961T/142442669808

for V10a
1mm thick sapphire
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-0mm-Thick-16-44-5mm-Flat-Sapphire-Watch-Glass-Round-Crystal-Replacement/302438741321

more details in this post

Since Sunwayman is gone,someone know if there is compatibility with the Driver of RRT01 on the room head of V11R? In addition to the dimensions, it’s necessary to verify that the magnetic control will work correctly

I have not tried

if you do, let us know the results

a lot of people would be glad to find an option to replace a dead V10/V11r driver

The Sunwayman driver is a single pcb driver, the RRT is a double stack PCB driver. The top PCB on the RRT driver will not fit down inside the Sunwayman driver cavity, its to tall to fit. There’s not enough material there to remove to make it fit.
I have never found a driver replacement for the Sunwayman’s. The only option would be to purchase another V11R since they were the cheapest of the rotary lights. Most of the components on the driver can be purchased and replaced if bad. From what I understand about the datasheet of the 316BCG rotary position sensor it has to be programmed, so it may not be able to just be replaced. In my experiences the PAM2803 is what usually dies on these drivers. More info How to Mod Sunwayman V11R or V10R Driver For More Current