[1900k edition is in!] WTS: 1900k-5800k 5mm LED 95+ CRI

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Gebe
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Boy, these are way too warm for me but thanks for offering them!

rngwn
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If you want 5600k and you live in the States. This guy right here has it.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk...

Unheard
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1stein wrote:
Took also a few Fasttech flagships: authentic

Got my samples. Direct driven, i.e. no electronics. The PCB can be taken out by pushing the LED. It just falls apart. Piece of cake to replace the LED, but maybe not worth it. Body must be some kind of zinc alloy.

The Mateminco BL-1 is much nicer. I ordered the copper type, and it appears to actually be made from copper! Hope I can take it apart.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

ludolf
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Nitecore Tube would be suitable for this led?

rngwn
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ludolf wrote:
Nitecore Tube would be suitable for this led?

I don’t think so. The LED in Tube is most likely driven at 150ma. Unless you find the way to cut the current in half, I don’t think think this LED will survive.

TMaxxJJ
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Do you ship to the UK? If so, what would be the cost of one pack of 50 shipped?
Thanks

1stein
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Unheard wrote:
1stein wrote:
Took also a few Fasttech flagships: authentic

Got my samples. Direct driven, i.e. no electronics. The PCB can be taken out by pushing the LED. It just falls apart. Piece of cake to replace the LED, but maybe not worth it. Body must be some kind of zinc alloy.

The Mateminco BL-1 is much nicer. I ordered the copper type, and it appears to actually be made from copper! Hope I can take it apart.

Thank you for letting us know. Mine are on the way, we’ll see.

e1000
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ludolf wrote:
Nitecore Tube would be suitable for this led?

I’ll let you know for sure tomorrow Cool

djozz
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I put one in a Tube today (sorry e1000, it was not to beat you to the mod, I had precisely one hour this weekend to do stuff in my grand workshop behind the cupboard, that hour was now and this little project fitted right in).

Tube with stock led, full battery, at 30 seconds:
109 mA, 47 lumen, 78CRI, 7300K duv -0.0152
Tube with rngwn led, full battery, at 30 seconds:
84 mA, 24 lumen, 96CRI, 3200K duv -0,0042

Bit lousy pic not doing justice to the great tint:

rngwn
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TMaxxJJ wrote:
Do you ship to the UK? If so, what would be the cost of one pack of 50 shipped? Thanks

Yes, PM me.

e1000
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No worries djozz! Now I know it’ll work!

flightless22
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I got them. Under UV light it has red/yellowish hue like the 5600k Yuji unlike 3200k Yuji.

Left: Yuji 3200k , Middle: rngwn 3400k, Right: Yuji 5600k

rngwn
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Tracking numbers:

fnksb – RR278756946TH
Skuzapo – LX054010880TH
TMaxxJJ – RO247700068TH
Elaboration – RO247700125TH

/u/LoPan12 – LX054010893TH

1stein
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djozz wrote:
I put one in a Tube today (sorry e1000, it was not to beat you to the mod, I had precisely one hour this weekend to do stuff in my grand workshop behind the cupboard, that hour was now and this little project fitted right in).

Tube with stock led, full battery, at 30 seconds:
109 mA, 47 lumen, 78CRI, 7300K duv -0.0152
Tube with rngwn led, full battery, at 30 seconds:
84 mA, 24 lumen, 96CRI, 3200K duv -0,0042

Bit lousy pic not doing justice to the great tint:

!{width:70%}https://i.imgur.com/B2xY3xor.jpg!

Your so right, I almost forgot there’s a nice Nitecore TUBE having 5mm LED.
I did the same. Noticably less light, significantly more pleasant.
Mod easier than I thought.

rngwn
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Nice modding.

I was hesitant to buy one of the tube knock-off worrying it will kill the LEDs. Might want to try and mod one.

fnksb
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rngwn wrote:
Tracking numbers:
fnksb – RR278756946TH
Thank you! Innocent
e1000
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Nitecore Tube modded. Really happy with it! Thanks again rngwn!

Gebe
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rngwn wrote:
If you want 5600k and you live in the States. This guy right here has it.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk...

Thanks for that.

Unheard
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Is the Tube mod straight fiorward,or is there something to be carefull about? Ordered one.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

djozz
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Unheard wrote:
Is the Tube mod straight fiorward,or is there something to be carefull about? Ordered one.

No mod that I have ever done was straightforward, there’s always something unexpected that has to be taken care of (i.e. the tiny screws were tight, I had to use a very well fitting screwdriver to not screw them up). But if you have dome some modding before and do the disassemby and assembly a bit gentle (it is tiny inside), there are no big problems.
1stein
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Unheard wrote:
Is the Tube mod straight fiorward,or is there something to be carefull about? Ordered one.

The led leads are very short (1-2mm). I had to reposition the led because it is attached only by soldering points. Make sure it’s soldered deep enough to close the housing tight. I was holding the led in right position with one hand while the other was holding soldering iron.

rngwn
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As far as the screws are concerned, expect the loctite on the unloosen screws. That is probably #1 reason why it’s so difficult to unscrew for the first time.

djozz
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1stein wrote:
Unheard wrote:
Is the Tube mod straight fiorward,or is there something to be carefull about? Ordered one.

The led leads are very short (1-2mm). I had to reposition the led because it is attached only by soldering points. Make sure it’s soldered deep enough to close the housing tight. I was holding the led in right position with one hand while the other was holding soldering iron.


I had a look at the position of the stock led before unsoldering it. The leads of the new led I bended sharply to the side very close to the plastic and cut off alongside the plastic. This gave enough “solder length” to attach the led just as well as stock led. I always pre-tin the leads of the led and then fuse the solder with the blob on the driver board.
Unheard
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Thank you gentlemen. Seems doable Thumbs Up

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

DavidEF
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Here’s a question. I can’t remember if anyone asked it yet, but I think not. What would the result be if I tint mixed these high CRI, low CCT emitters with some low CRI, high CCT cheapies? For instance, if I replace five of the emitters in a cheap 9-up light with these emitters, leaving four of the stock ones, which are probably 70 CRI, 6500K CCT, what could I expect? I know the resulting CCT could be calculated easily, but I’m wondering what the resulting CRI would be. Does CRI “blend” linearly like CCT does, or not?

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
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Kame Sennin
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It is very likely that the 9 leds cheapies use leds with a CRI far lower than 70 (i have some at home will do the test tonight)

 

djozz
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DavidEF wrote:
Here’s a question. I can’t remember if anyone asked it yet, but I think not. What would the result be if I tint mixed these high CRI, low CCT emitters with some low CRI, high CCT cheapies? For instance, if I replace five of the emitters in a cheap 9-up light with these emitters, leaving four of the stock ones, which are probably 70 CRI, 6500K CCT, what could I expect? I know the resulting CCT could be calculated easily, but I’m wondering what the resulting CRI would be. Does CRI “blend” linearly like CCT does, or not?

The spectra are simply averaged, so the cyan dip may be halved, and far red too, I guess the CRI may be in the middle too.
rngwn
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One thing to note here is that as far as cheapo 5mm LEDs go, you might end up having the stock LED with 10000k or colder and godawful tint. There are no minimum to the quality controls there.

Kame Sennin
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I am new to the CRI things and my setup (Colormunki Photo + ArgyllCMS) might be poorly missused but from what i see on my cheap lights they range from a CCT 11000K / CRI 74 (R9 -20) for the better to something that Argyll can't even understand telling me something like 999911K / CRI -1 for most of the others.

My guess is that the blue peak is so high compared to any other color that the calculation fails

iamlucky13
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DavidEF wrote:
Here’s a question. I can’t remember if anyone asked it yet, but I think not. What would the result be if I tint mixed these high CRI, low CCT emitters with some low CRI, high CCT cheapies? For instance, if I replace five of the emitters in a cheap 9-up light with these emitters, leaving four of the stock ones, which are probably 70 CRI, 6500K CCT, what could I expect? I know the resulting CCT could be calculated easily, but I’m wondering what the resulting CRI would be. Does CRI “blend” linearly like CCT does, or not?

As mentioned above, intermediate CCT and CRI. Duv will be lower than either emitter, which is a benefit.

The cheapo LED’s I have tried have a higher forward voltage than the Yuji’s, which means also than these replacements. The result will be your high CRI emitters are driven harder than your low CRI emitters. It might not be enough to cause a problem though.

The cheapo LED’s are also usually a ~15 degree beam. The much tighter beam will mean major tint deviation across the beam. It might be possible to resolve by sanding the dome of the cheap LED’s.

I have mixed equally numbers of 3200K and 5600K Yuji’s with similar beam angle and forward voltage in a test, and the result was really good, around 4500K. I only tested it a limited amount, but I actually liked it slightly more than the only Nichia 219B, SW45K light that I own.

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