I put one in a Tube today (sorry e1000, it was not to beat you to the mod, I had precisely one hour this weekend to do stuff in my grand workshop behind the cupboard, that hour was now and this little project fitted right in).
Tube with stock led, full battery, at 30 seconds:
109 mA, 47 lumen, 78CRI, 7300K duv –0.0152
Tube with rngwn led, full battery, at 30 seconds:
84 mA, 24 lumen, 96CRI, 3200K duv –0,0042
Bit lousy pic not doing justice to the great tint:
Yes, PM me.
No worries djozz! Now I know it’ll work!
I got them. Under UV light it has red/yellowish hue like the 5600k Yuji unlike 3200k Yuji.
Left: Yuji 3200k , Middle: rngwn 3400k, Right: Yuji 5600k
Tracking numbers:
fnksb - RR278756946TH
Skuzapo - LX054010880TH
TMaxxJJ - RO247700068TH
Elaboration - RO247700125TH
/u/LoPan12 - LX054010893TH
Your so right, I almost forgot there’s a nice Nitecore TUBE having 5mm LED.
I did the same. Noticably less light, significantly more pleasant.
Mod easier than I thought.
Nice modding.
I was hesitant to buy one of the tube knock-off worrying it will kill the LEDs. Might want to try and mod one.
Thank you! :innocent:
Nitecore Tube modded. Really happy with it! Thanks again rngwn!
Thanks for that.
Is the Tube mod straight fiorward,or is there something to be carefull about? Ordered one.
No mod that I have ever done was straightforward, there’s always something unexpected that has to be taken care of (i.e. the tiny screws were tight, I had to use a very well fitting screwdriver to not screw them up). But if you have dome some modding before and do the disassemby and assembly a bit gentle (it is tiny inside), there are no big problems.
The led leads are very short (1-2mm). I had to reposition the led because it is attached only by soldering points. Make sure it’s soldered deep enough to close the housing tight. I was holding the led in right position with one hand while the other was holding soldering iron.
As far as the screws are concerned, expect the loctite on the unloosen screws. That is probably #1 reason why it’s so difficult to unscrew for the first time.
I had a look at the position of the stock led before unsoldering it. The leads of the new led I bended sharply to the side very close to the plastic and cut off alongside the plastic. This gave enough “solder length” to attach the led just as well as stock led. I always pre-tin the leads of the led and then fuse the solder with the blob on the driver board.
Thank you gentlemen. Seems doable 
Here’s a question. I can’t remember if anyone asked it yet, but I think not. What would the result be if I tint mixed these high CRI, low CCT emitters with some low CRI, high CCT cheapies? For instance, if I replace five of the emitters in a cheap 9-up light with these emitters, leaving four of the stock ones, which are probably 70 CRI, 6500K CCT, what could I expect? I know the resulting CCT could be calculated easily, but I’m wondering what the resulting CRI would be. Does CRI “blend” linearly like CCT does, or not?
It is very likely that the 9 leds cheapies use leds with a CRI far lower than 70 (i have some at home will do the test tonight)
The spectra are simply averaged, so the cyan dip may be halved, and far red too, I guess the CRI may be in the middle too.
One thing to note here is that as far as cheapo 5mm LEDs go, you might end up having the stock LED with 10000k or colder and godawful tint. There are no minimum to the quality controls there.