Anyone familiar with replacing the button? My leds went out and I have a replacement but looks like the ring is press fit.
Mine is copper so I’m a little timid on being brute force on this, dont want to ruin the finish
I’m having trouble getting my aux lights to come on. I click 7 times from off and the switch lights change from 2 dots to 4 dots but my blue aux lights don’t come on. I click 7 times again and the switch changes from 4 dots to 2 dots. What am I doing wrong? How do I get my aux lights to come on? They used to work but I turned them off and haven’t used the light in quite in a while. Now I want to turn them back on.
Did you maybe open the bezel and turn them down with the pot screws when you did it the first time?
No, I don’t know enough to muck around with the internals.
Make sure your battery is charged? It could have drained it enough to allow the button/main LEDs to come on dimly but the aux board has its own low voltage protection so it will stay off.
Good idea, I’ll charge up the battery tonight. The light itself does come on and ramps up and down brightnesses as expected so I didn’t think about the battery since the light worked.
Is the light off or on or locked?
Locked is three clicks.
On is 7 clicks, but they need to be fast clicks.
He is doing that right because the button LEDs are changing. I’m betting it’s just a low battery
Or maybe there is a defect
I tried both ways - 7 clicks from off and also tried 3 clicks from lockout.
Charging the battery brought the aux lights back. I feel like a dolt. Thanks, everyone.
I wonder if any of you could help with my Emisar D4S problem: Emisar D4S review - #2322 by AndreaW
[quote=AndreaW]
Charging the battery brought the aux lights back. I feel like a dolt. Thanks, everyone.
Wow, thats good news, and you must be happy . I didn’t think that would be the solution. Great Forum we have lots of help.
This thought struck me… there is a lot of functionality in the firmware… but yet…there is no mode to turn off leds…
For instance…as a power save mode you could choose to not activate all leds… for instance… you can sacrifice width of the beam in favor of throw. Cause not always you need this wide beam…
Plus it could save a lot power…
E07 is great… but… battery when using high lumen settings… will deplete kind of fast… but its not strange…
All I am saying is if you could turn off leds… to make beam less wide but not sacrifice throw it could bee a good compromise should it would require more physical motion and focus with your hand to focus the beam to the objects…but… to save power it could be worth in in some situations…
Just some ideas for future products… 7 leds is good…but it might not be all scenarios we need to use it… if we only want focus beam with long thru we could give full power turbo to just a few leds… and let the other be off…
An other idea in this mode would be that the firmware would alernate the active leds… when some led turn of some other turn on… the idea would be… as soon as one led get hot a new “cool” led would start and when it get hot it turns of and a new led start… that is cool… it could maybe help thermal performance.
And other idea… is in situation when throw is more important then flood… maybe we could give specific leds extra turbo power which might be possible cause not all 7 leds are running at the same time…
Just some ideas… I like to think outside the box…
With a a firmware complex like this… this kind of functionality is not to far off I think…
E07 is a very good flash light that gives both of best worlds its a flood and throw light in one…
if we could deactivate we could control flood level and maybe even surpass throw with more narrow beam…
The whole idea is to make the flash light even more versatile ofc…
As it is it s already the most balanced and versatile flashlight… ist flood and throw in one… but atleast witht the SST20 the throw could maybe be better…considering the lumen output…
Being able to select any amount of LEDs requires separated channels per LED, which means each channel needs it’s own regulator/FET and enable signal from MCU, or some logic chip to route the signal to the selected channels. As a hobbyist driver designer myself I can only say man, what a nightmare.
If it used only 1 of the 7 LEDs, the beam would still be just as wide. Increasing the throw isn’t done by using fewer LEDs, it’s done by using larger optics or smaller LEDs. Even if it could turn individual LEDs on/off, the firmware can’t change the physical beam pattern.
Turning most of the E07 LEDs off would only produce this effect, which doesn’t help at all with throwiness:
AND if you want a thrower of the same size the E01 is it!
What could be done however, would be to place a very throwy LED in the center(SST-20) with a low angle emission optix, and pick floody LEDs(LH351Ds) with floody optics.
Best balance between flood and throw.
Only problem is the driver as MikeC stated, along with making a custom optic.
With 1 battery and 7 LEDs in parallel it’s hard to drive any single LED to its max current though (and therefore max throw).
It’s not really worth it on this light but the idea isn’t completely without merit.
There are designs which can do both flood and throw. For example, the lights shown below. But the E07 isn’t like that. All of its optics are the same, so turning individual LEDs on/off doesn’t really change the beam pattern at distances greater than ~20 cm.
I noticed there is generation II of ROT66 and PL47. Any plans for new version of E07 soon?