[1900k edition is in!] WTS: 1900k-5800k 5mm LED 95+ CRI

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DavidEF
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Thanks for the replies. I knew the cheapies were cold, but 11,000K? WOW! Shocked

So, if I tint mixed like I suggested above, I would still end up with a very cold light, at a bit over 6700K average? Yikes!

iamlucky13 wrote:
The cheapo LED’s I have tried have a higher forward voltage than the Yuji’s, which means also than these replacements. The result will be your high CRI emitters are driven harder than your low CRI emitters. It might not be enough to cause a problem though.

Well, that might work in my favor, actually. Since djozz tested these LEDs at up to 100mA, they should do okay, and turn the overall light output a bit warmer than if all the emitters were putting out equally. Maybe, it might even get into the 4500K – 5000K range overall.

iamlucky13 wrote:
The cheapo LED’s are also usually a ~15 degree beam. The much tighter beam will mean major tint deviation across the beam. It might be possible to resolve by sanding the dome of the cheap LED’s.

That would be a problem. I guess I could solve that with a bit of DC-Fix, or by sanding the domes like you suggested. Or both. Big Smile

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rngwn
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As a fair warning, 11000k is not the upper limit of how bad these can be.

The “6500k” cheapie samples I know was pretty darn cold 50000k. Djozz has tested it. Ewww.

You cannot expect any sort of consistencies as far as the el cheapos are concerned.

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rngwn wrote:
As a fair warning, 11000k is not the upper limit of how bad these can be.

The "6500k" cheapie samples I know was pretty darn cold 50000k. Djozz has tested it. Ewww.

50000K? Silly Is that possible without the stuff emitting some nasty UV frequencies? Also, that cannot look very good. 

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rngwn
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50000k corresponds to X,Y of (0.227,0.228) which is not that far from 20000k (0.250,0.250).

Once you slip past 10000k in terms of x-y, it’s seem really easy to slip into 6-digit figures.

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DavidEF wrote:
Thanks for the replies. I knew the cheapies were cold, but 11,000K? WOW! Shocked

So, if I tint mixed like I suggested above, I would still end up with a very cold light, at a bit over 6700K average? Yikes!

I have my theory that the light mixes by averaging the CIE x-y coordinates.

10000k on BBL: 0.280, 0.290
3000k on BBL: 0.431, 0.404

The resulting light will be: 0.358, 0.347
That corresponds to ~4500k and -0.0073 duv

If that works out the way I theorized, then you might want to throw in a few (and only just a few) green LEDs to pull the duv back closer to the BBL.

10000k (DL locus): 0.278, 0.293
3000k on BBL: 0.431, 0.404

The resulting light will be: 0.354, 0.349
That corresponds to ~4600k and -0.0048 duv

rngwn
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Shipping update:

Ulrich – RO247700139TH
EricJ2190 – RO247700142TH
TBone – RR278755013TH

DavidEF
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rngwn wrote:
DavidEF wrote:
Thanks for the replies. I knew the cheapies were cold, but 11,000K? WOW! Shocked

So, if I tint mixed like I suggested above, I would still end up with a very cold light, at a bit over 6700K average? Yikes!

I have my theory that the light mixes by averaging the CIE x-y coordinates.

10000k on BBL: 0.280, 0.290
3000k on BBL: 0.431, 0.404

The resulting light will be: 0.358, 0.347
That corresponds to ~4500k and -0.0073 duv

If that works out the way I theorized, then you might want to throw in a few (and only just a few) green LEDs to pull the duv back closer to the BBL.


So, the CCT isn’t an exact average of 3000K and 10,000K, but an average of the underlying positional numbers? And those don’t scale linearly? That’s interesting. I really DON’T know much about light and/or color! Shocked

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rngwn
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CIE coordinate itself is pretty linear.

It’s the CCT that is non-linear. You can look it up and see that the warm white part of the locus takes about 1/3 of the chart’s span. And the BBL locus is curved.

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In all honesty, mixing unknown emitters is a bad questionable idea. Of course can be done, but you'll have to deal with a poorly predictable resulting tint and CRI mishmash. One of the most important factors to consider, if setting emitters in parallel, is you won't exactly know how they will share the driving current. This affects the amount of output from each emitter, and therefore CCT, tint and CRI. It will also affect the relative speed at which each emitter will age, and thus CCT, tint and CRI will also change with use.

When actual emitter tests are available you can at least know what to expect, i.e. you can more or less predict the final outcome.

For example, setting a LH351B 3000K CRI90 in parallel with an (MF) LH351C 5000K CRI90 at ≈1.5A would result in a 0.6A/0.9A current share given their Vf curves (planning to give this a shot sometime). 

The human mind, and its programming, is at the forefront of a particular battle of The Light vs evil dark forces. Nearly every human being on this beautiful planet “Earth” has some sort of negative mind programming in its mind. And you better take care of your mind programming, or someone else will in this wicked world.

Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.

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iamlucky13 wrote:

I have mixed equally numbers of 3200K and 5600K Yuji’s with similar beam angle and forward voltage in a test, and the result was really good, around 4500K. I only tested it a limited amount, but I actually liked it slightly more than the only Nichia 219B, SW45K light that I own.

maukka did a measurement of a combination of a 3200K + 5600K Yuji: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1427738#comment-1427738
See the last measurement.

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Nitecore Tube came in yesterday and I put one of these LEDs in, GREAT little light now. On top of the great color/CRI I’m very happy with the output level. these put low and high exactly where I would want them. Easiest 5mm swap I’ve done as well, putting Yujis into a traditional twisty was far more tedious (killed a driver in one).

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Thanks for the quick shipping, rngwn!
Mine arrived — plopped one into a Photon Freedom — easiest mod on the planet : )
Nice warm and pleasant LED.

rngwn
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Cool white version is coming Wink

along with a bag of 3400k with the same binning.

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 Has anyone put one of these in a .....free / just pay shipping Coast light yet ?

 

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/1169

 

I had one slung by the lanyard  on my sliding glass door handle for years but replaced it with a Jacob A60 ..Seemed more a more appropriate backdoor light..

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

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rngwn wrote:
Cool white version is coming Wink

along with a bag of 3400k with the same binning.

5600K? That will be nice for tint mixing. LOL There are many 12 or 21 or 51 UV led flashlights around where you could change the leds. The 3400K have a great color rendition.

rngwn
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The label says “5800k” but based on given X,Y it computes 5400k-5600k with duv .0014 – .0037

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ludolf wrote:
Nitecore Tube would be suitable for this led?

Sure, it is. To be safe replace 1 resistor. https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/ae1lh4/mod_nitecore_tube_em...
Mike

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rngwn wrote:
Cool white version is coming Wink

along with a bag of 3400k with the same binning.


Nice. Cool

I haven’t bought any of these yet. But when the cool whites get here, I might get some of each from you. Grad

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Boaz wrote:

 Has anyone put one of these in a …..free / just pay shipping Coast light yet ?


Where to get them?

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

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I decided to make a light module out of 28 LEDs in parallel. Hooked it up to a lab bench. Without constant current regulation, any initial current above 840ma (30ma per LEDs) will result in a (very gradual) thermal runaway where the module start to pull more and more current and heat up more until it would presumably burn out. On the first try, I initially set the current at 1.4A, and it rose up to almost 1.6A within 10 minutes.

 

Granted, these LEDs are packed fairly tightly together and thus complicating the thermal problem. I'd say, if you want to run this LED on a long term, you shouldn't be running this at 35ma (per LED) or more without airflow.

 

With 840ma starting current, the final current stabilized at 900ma.

 

Noctiluco
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Received mine in Spain last weekend, thanks rngwn

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Got my package last week in Croatia! 

What are the chances to get 5600K hi cri?

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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^Coming later in the day today.

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YES!!!^^^^

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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Uhh, there are chances that it might slip into tomorrow. Looks like the shipping service has shat the bed and hasn’t called me of the pending delivery and tax yet.

Unheard
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Has anyone measured the diameter? It wasn’t easy to get the LED into the Fenix (fortunately, the E01 has a rubber sealing), and at all refused to fit the Metaminco Bullet. Must be slightly bigger than 5 mm.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

rngwn
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I measured it with a digital caliper. The caliper reads exactly 5mm, though it’s not perfectly accurate so it might actually be 5.1mm.

The other reason can be that the stock LEDs are actually 4.8mm. The “5mm” LED family includes both 5mm and 4.8mm (usually the straw hats).

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Ah, ok. Since it’s copper, I should be able to work the opening a little wider.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

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Ah, looks like the logistics has really shat the bed.

The mail man never arrived today Sad

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Let the fun begin!

 

The "5800k" (5500k?) has landed. You decide for yourself if it's actually 5500k or 5800k. (all pics are taken at 5500k)

 

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