Ooohhhh… Yeah. That would be a pretty good match to my other Blaze Orange gear.
Ordered my first one with amazon.de with batteries.
Thanks all involved to make this happen.
I think this one might eventually replace my coleman unleaded on camping trips.
3 more to come. Most will end up as gifts.
This project really shows if you get together what you can achieve. Been looking at battery lanterns for ages, and they have all been s!!t. I really think the BLF community hit gold with this one.
To all those complaining, one advice, get involved earlier in the project and offer to help. If not, shut up and be grateful for those that stood out.
That would be a badass color. I love it !!!
I believe Sofirn started with a manual from a previous Anduril light that was close, but not the same functionally and had different hardware features. TK has made a bunch of LT1 specific changes/enhancements to Anduril, and those were not included in the manual they used as a base. As English is not the first language (presumably) of Sofirn’s team, they may not have known any different (Anduril = Anduril right?).
I saw you posting earlier in the thread helping with the manual. It seems you really helped to sort out the inconsistencies and make the LT1 project even better, and many here will be grateful for that.
Yup, things got a bit weird, hence my use of the term generic code since I was unaware as to the source and I wasn’t going to go back and try to decipher things, hence generic.
There were issues due to time differences, etc so they went with that route.
Is there a summary somewhere in the differences between the first batch of 500 and the next revision, other than the manual… assuming there are any? If it’s all firmware tweaks, has it been published anywhere how we connect this thing up to a computer so we can flash the firmware if we want? I started perusing the thread elsewhere in the forums (which I really need to bookmark…) and grabbed ToyKeeper’s bzr tree. I’m very comfortable using version control and compiling software on a Linux and I know my way around the command line, but my experience flashing embedded devices is a bit more limited (mostly flashing routers and cell phones). I’m not sure if this will work with the existing clips out there or if I’d need to solder something up for use with the LT1. I don’t rightly care which rev I get, since I think it all should meet my needs and then some, but having the ability to hack the firmware and update it would be awesome.
TK posted a mice summary of the tweaks HERE.
As for reprogramming, I believe there are a set of spring-side programming contacts on the driver. I’m sure there’s a pic of it floating around, but I can’t locate it right now.
Edit - I think this is reasonably current. (click to open full) “under” the LT1 logo, you can see programming pads.
As for the technicals of How, the standard USBASP & related tools used to flash an FW3a or D4 will get you 90% of the way there.
one for me
Please add me to the list for one too
The printed FW3A’s manual is perfectly readable and the Astrolux MF01s manual is quite readable too. 
Sorry, dumb question:
Should we be waiting for a message, or are we just using the “Joe sent me, my username is gottawearshades” method?
I thought I would have gotten a PM by now if I was going to get one.
If correct that would be another strike against the way this has rolled out. The LT1 is not a light that’s only going to end up in the hands of flashlight savvy BLF members. It needs an understandable & readable manual in the package not a micro-printed illegible set of instructions.
You’re not in the first 500 on the list, so I don’t think you’ll get a PM for the first batch. However, it seems you can still buy one via eBay (based on reports from others). Just make an offer of $49.99 and include your BLF ID.
My first unit is something like 178, haven’t received a code yet, I assume this is still in progress or should I take that to mean the first 500 units have been purchased?
EBay — Sold out of the BLF LT1 without batteries.
EBay — BLF LT1 with batteries available with more than 10 available.
EBay — Full retail price. Forum discount … One has to go thru the Make Offer portal.
Amazon — Both versions available with a 30% listed discounted price.
Also — All listings are Public … … Available for World Wide Sale.
Chatting with someone on AliExpress right now.
I don’t think he’s going to give me thew group buy price.
I gave my BLF ID user ID. He just keeps giving me a link to the product at full price.
Now I need to think about whether I want to pay full price I guess.
Ditto. I’m just a lurker, so I don’t figure my opinion counts for much, but I’m happy to wait my turn. I’ll have years and years to enjoy this light once I have it, so what’s another month or two?
The easiest methods are:
- Factory reset (default tint is 50% or ~4000K).
- Or turn the light down to moon level before changing the tint. The tint resolution is very low at that level, so it’s easy to see when it crosses a boundary like 50%.
No need to remove it. If the user configures a lower ceiling, the true maximum will still be available as a “turbo” mode. By default though, the ceiling is set to maximum so it doesn’t have an additional turbo above that.
The default floor for smooth ramp is level 1 of the 150 total steps.
If I understand correctly, there were too many cooks in the kitchen, or coordination was difficult due to time zones, or something like that… so they decided to do it on their own instead. We probably just had too many people in the private thread where the process was being worked out.
Ever tried to get an international project done on an entirely volunteer basis?
Some parts will be messy. And that’s okay. So far it looks like things are turning out pretty well, with only minor details not completely sorted out before the first batch.
It’s pretty common for generic manuals to be written for an entire product line, without going into detail about what is different about each one. That’s basically where things started… just a normal average manual. But people wanted to make it better, and they did. You were a part of that, and it’s very much appreciated. You helped improve it from average to uncommonly good. Thanks! 
Translations are almost always difficult and incomplete or inaccurate, even with extensive tools to help, like an i18n library and a string translation database. This project didn’t have those tools, but has done pretty well regardless.
It’s a moving target, a rolling stone. The firmware runs on dozens of different lights and changes over time as development continues. However, the lantern has been classified as a “stable” build target for months, so it was ready a long time ago. Everything since than has simply been upgrades.
For example, people wanted some light painting features on the FW3A, so I added it. And now, woot, the lantern has light-painting functions. It’s kind of silly, but it’s there. A couple lights were having physical difficulties with stuck buttons, and I added some extra safety features related to that. So now the lantern has stuck-button protection. Etcetera. It’ll keep getting updates over time, because that is the nature of software.
It works with the HQ Universal ProgKey pogo pin adapter, and it might also work with a standard SOIC8 clip. The clip method remains to be seen though, since the wiring inside changed since the last prototype I saw, and I’m not sure if the wires are still long enough to pop the driver out that far.
The Q8’s driver was easy to reflash with a SOIC8 clip and a small screwdriver… no soldering required. And the lantern is based on the Q8. But we probably won’t know until production units arrive if the wires are long enough for that. Regardless, the HQ ProgKey is far more convenient aside from having to build the key first.
One more for me please.
So total of two (2).
Thanks