Iāve been meaning to change lockoutās aux controls from 3 to 7 clicks to improve consistency, but every time Iāve brought it up, people said to leave it as is.
Also have been wanting to change the mapping to get into config mode, since people keep getting into it by accident. Again though, itās tricky making changes which break backward compatibility. It makes things unpleasant for a lot of people for a while, even if the changes are an upgrade.
Basically, changes like that involve coordinating with people here and with several companies. Itās a lot more work than it might seem at a glance.
About replacing ā3 or 4 clicks while onā with shortcuts to blinkes or lockout, no. Thatās not likely to happen in Anduril. The only reason itās able to have relatively short button mappings (like 3 clicks instead of 11) is because itās a stateful interface instead of a stateless interface. Input sequences do different things depending on what state the light is in.
Some brands are known to have rather mushy backlit switches. I hope the titanium D4V2 manages to keep the same great click that we are used to from Emisar products!
I kind of want one of these in 2700K SST-20 to use as a candle, but I donāt fancy swapping the emitters with all that extra aux board stuff going on in the head. I might just go for a 3A or 5D XP-L HI option instead, as power is kind of the point of the D4.
D4V2/D4GT in brass? Hell-yea! (D4S might be a bit heavy and bulky)
Copper patinas nicely, iffn protected from scars, kinda soft.
Ti has no qualities to suggest its use for flashlights other than durability. (threads grate/gall horribly)
Brass endures and proudly shows itās heritage of use/abuse. Its threads glide together as if mating.
No need for SS bezel as brass is plenty strong.
I really hope Hank is listening
Been waiting for the Ti to drop! Ugh now the usual quandryā¦which emitter? I have a couple lights with SST20 4000k, and I like the tint very much just not enough oomph. Then for a bit more power I got my D4V2 with SST20 5000k which is very nice above around 80% brightness, but much less and its a pretty nasty green. I also have a FW3T with XPL-HI 3D 5000k which I like a lot. Which leads me to consider XPL-HI 3A for this one. Any thoughts or comparisons?