✌ FREEME- ASTROLUX MF01 Mini 7*SST20 CRI95 26650 ANDÚRIL Flashlight Group Buy - $45.99

Got mine a few days ago and I’m really impressed. I ordered a silver 5000k but asked if they could send me a green one instead and Banggood came through. Very happy that they did, the color looks great. I do sort of wish I’d gone for the 4000k but I have an MF01S in 4000k so I figured I’d try a different temp this time. It’s nice but not as nice as the 4000k; oh well, live and learn.

Could I hear opinion of some battery experts on using MF01 Minis with these batteries:

https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/2DLOuvIs

I have no experience with Liitokalas 26650, I heard that these blue ones are good, but can they pump those 20 Amps this lights can handle in turbo?

Why don’t you just go for this?

Vapcell 26650 battery 5500mah 20A Li-ion battery 3.7v Rechargeable vape cell for smoke E-CIG
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/ZGJy6JdbV

I have ordered some Shockli IMR 26650 from banggood and those should be the same cells you mentioned just rewrapped (from what I heard). But I have those 2019 Liitokala 26650 I bought for a different flashlight and wonder to what extent I can use them in this one and what I can get from them.

I see… I had good experiences with the Liitokala black 26650 cells. Someone or somewhere on BLF should have some info on this.

Output on turbo woold be lower but should keep up longer. We need some test to really know. The battery would be worn down, capacity lowered, faster but with turbo being so short it might not be too bad.

The black Liitokalla would be an alterntive inbetween them.

The Vapcell look very expencive, it is just for one battery.

I bought 2 for $25 so it’s not too bad… They are verrrrrry good cells.

The 5100mah are junk. Typical unknown cells. Probably work okay, but have a lot of voltage sag. No one has tested these other than your common battery charger capacity tests which show that these cells vary a lot. It’s not a good sign. They may be using a variety of cheap 26650 cells under this wrapper.

Your probably thinking of the older blue 5000mah LiitoKala. Those where the good ones. They don’t make them any more. They switched to the black and gold which were also goid. Unfortunately, these are sometimes faked, so you have to get them from a reputable source. Due to these factors, it might be best to go with a different brand 26650 cell.

I just picked up my Green MF01 Mini today and it’s awesome! It’s SST-20 5000K which is pretty nice but if I get another, it will be 4000K.

I love 26650 lights for the vehicles or in the house as opposed to multi-cell lights. They have a great balance of runtime and output. I was planning on getting a MF01S but I think I may get another one of these.

I had an unexpected delivery today, after Yodel tracking was just telling me “We will have your parcel soon” each time I checked.

Going to charge that 30T for a – no doubt blinding – dog walk tonight.

isnt 30t a bit overkill? better use a 40t or something longer runtimes.

You’re probably right, the 40T was the one I was originally going to get, but I must have mixed them up when I ordered it. On the other hand, I only use a torch for about 20 minutes each day, on a modest setting, so I don’t need to recharge my batteries very often.

EDIT: After years of using them, your comment only just made me realise that the first two digits of Samsung’s Li-ion batteries describe the capacity! :person_facepalming:

Yodel have to be the worst delivery company i have ever come across. When i saw my order was at “Hatfield Terminal” i felt dread as I’m very familiar that it is their main warehouse. Apparently my item is in Birmingham at Sandwell. Will expect the usual “delivered to a safe place” meaning they threw it on the floor outside the house delivery. :frowning:

Same here. I’m actually suprised that the delivery driver buzzed today - they usually just leave the parcel outside my door without even checking if anyone is in.

Yodel have been grouping my deliveries of late, which I suppose is efficient. No tracking of course and the online help is always busy. I have had parcels left behind the bins, and once, in the bin, and another time under my car. I know the drivers are under huge time pressure.

Thanks for the info re: configuration of the Aux-LEDs brightness.

Aux LEDs at 15-18mA = must have been quite bright to consume that much power. At what current did you finally configure your aux-LEDs to, to make them more “visible” than the default (I notice the aux-LED brightness are really quite dim, coming from the factory default (I measured 0.42mA with a DMM, I think this is already on the “High” setting).

I used a Lii-50A (black/gold) for testing which is not as good as a Shockli/Vapcell, and got around 7 Amps on Ramp Ceiling and around 19-20 Amps on Turbo (I think it could be higher since my copper wire might not be as thick as possible for amp meter measurement).

Other things I noted:

- on battery insertion (in stepless ramping mode): this will be in 1x7135 regulated mode (NoPWM)

  • in stepped ramping mode, default 7 brightness levels, only the 6th step is the regulated mode, which I’m measuring 2.24Amps (could be my amp meter not that calibrated anymore) — since this seems to be 6x7135 or 7x7135 regulated mode (NoPWM). (if 6x7135, that would have been close to 2.1Amps and 7x7135 would be 2.45Amps, but I checked with a “shine light through portable fan” method, and only the 6th step in the stepped ramp mode does not have PWM).

So there are 3 levels when there are NoPWM:

  • must be in stepless ramping mode: on battery insertion = NoPWM (this 1x7135 level is not present in the 7 steps of stepped ramping mode) ~ 0.32A
  • in stepped ramping mode: the 6th step is also NoPWM ~ 2.24A
  • in Turbo mode: NoPWM ~ 20A

(I think my amp meter has a calibration problem, 1x7135 should be 0.35A but I only get 0.32A readings out of several other flashlights too when using 1x7135 level)

I don’t think we have seen the driver, yet (have we?), were told it’s 3 channel. I assume it’s using 7135 chips. If so, what your calling no PWM is basically 100% PWM which is like a solid signal. So all 3 channels use PWM, it’s just not visible when any of the 3 channels are maxed out. You might already know this, I just wanted to clarify for other people.

Also, when channel 2 is active (maybe 6 chips?) remember that the single chip on channel 1 is also going at 100%. It’s quite possible Lexel used 0.320 regulator chips. This makes sense for your channel 1 amp reading and if channel 2 is 6 more chips (1+6=7x0.320=2.24). Maybe we figured it out?

Hi d_t_a

My clamp meter at home that I used has a lowest range of 2A, my measurements might be a little high for the AUX LEDs at max brightness. I will take a look at this again when I am in the office where a I can use a Fluke DMM with a much lower range.

Here is my latest reading from my company FLUKE 87V DMM (this is calibrated once a year).

AUX LEDs at MAX brightness - 7.3mA
AUX LEDs at MAX brightess except green (very low) - 5.33mA
AUX LEDs at okay brightness - 2.8mA
AUX LEDs at Low mode - 0.28mA

The results are much better because this meter can measure in uA and mA. At my current settings, 5.3mA, it will take 1000 hours before I fully drain my 5500mAh 26650 battery.

And here is the picture of the driver.