BLF Lantern Purchase/Followup Information - Group Buy list is Closed!!!!

Don’t worry, if your name is on that list in the first OP thread of the main BLF LT1 lantern topic, then a code will be sent to you, just need patience and will take time as Sofirn is doing them in batches of 500 units at a time. They are working on to finish up the first 500 batch now, then they will be starting with the next batch ( and next 500 on the list.)

Ordered mine on Amazon on Oct. 10th. Arrived today in good shape. 22days.

A couple questions. Are these soldered on the correct spaces?

Also, can the top cap be swiveled so the bail is horizontal to the button? (Turned counter clockwise in this pict)

I don’t have an LT1 yet, but it seems you could loosen the top bolt, rotate the cap, and re-tighten the bolt.

I figure the only issue would be twisting of the LED wires, but I’d hope there’s enough slack for a bit of rotation.

Let us know if it works!

Robert has OCD like me, but I wasn’t able to turn the cap. There seems to be a grove it goes into and it won’t sit any other way. Maybe I’m afraid I’m going to break something. If someone else has tried it please report back.

I don’t have OCD, but I would like the button to face out when I hang it on my camp kitchen hook.

I asked elsewhere, what is the trim pot for.?

Turn the camp kitchen hook???

Can’t do that. It’s on a bar. You can see this red Fenix lantern hanging from it. On another note, I do wish this lantern had a red light mode. The red light is great for not attracting bugs. I like leaving the red on all night in case someone has to get up.

Very good idea. Maybe a red shade can be developed later.

A red shade would work, as long as no white light was leaking out. I made the mistake of leaving a Fenix lantern turned on lowest white mode sitting on the camp kitchen all night. The counter tops were caked with dead bugs in the morning.

Yes the pads are correctly solder; 6/7 are supposed to come unbridged and you can bridge them if you want more output (at the cost of run-time and heat of course). It’s nice to see that 6/7 have no solder on them since some of the early ones were incorrectly bridged by Sofirn. The charge pad is also correctly bridge to give you the higher charge rate.

My LT also has the bail in the same position relative to the button so I assume that’s the way they designed it (and that’s too bad :frowning: ).

Ok if you want to align up the bail-handle to a 90 degree or parallel to the switch , you will need to remove the top center bolt, then carfuly lift up the head a little, ( there will be some resistance due to the three wire leads soldered to the head LED plate. It can lift up roughly 1/4 to 1/2 an inch.) in the center you can see two centering square pins on the center of the acrylic shade post. (these pins fit & lock into two corresponding slots in the LED MCPCB) They are there to prevent accidental turning of the head to much that it twists the lead wires off the MCPCB. You can either carefully clip or file those two pins, then you can re-align the head and tighten the center bolt. (do not over tighten that bolt! as you may crack or damage the lens/shade, just snug it down to keep everything in place firmly. Be careful of the upper shade O-ring and that it stays in place.

Great Den, thanks. I will check that out (carefully)…

edit…

I just tried that and couldn’t get the top cap to lift off high enough. At least, I wasn’t comfortable pulling on it too much. Going to leave well enough alone, and find a half twist carabiner.

Thanks for the info, Den! :+1:

I don’t have an LT1 yet, but I can sorta visualize what you’re describing.

If anyone performs this alignment, please post some photos of the process.

Maybe i can do a quick how to video for those wanting to clip the pins & align the bail handle, and the easy way to get the o-ring back in place. (as that is tricky too. :partying_face:

That would be cool if you could do a quick vid

Or, a small carabiner, clip-ring or split-ring would have the same effect - the only cost would be the lantern hanging an inch or two lower and the price of a cheap carabiner.

It’s off 45º. So adding a clip ring would just put it off 45º the other direction, as you can see in my picture.

I will after next week do a video. :+1:

Ahhh… that makes if a little more interesting.

Have you seen the strange shapes you can bend an S hook into with a pair or two of pliers? For about $0.40 (zinc coated) to $1.50 (stainless) each you can make as many 45 degree twisted custom S hooks as you like.

I’m not going to argue that having the hook aligned like that is a touch weird… but there are answers that don’t involve breaking off the anti-twist protective tabs. Heck - I’m wondering if there’s enough slack in the bail to twist the tip without messing up the rest of its geometry.