Ultimate LED Bulbs - Ultra High CRI - The Honorable Quest

IKEA Ledare, type LED1521R6
A 2700K 90+CRI GU10 bulb, non-dimmable

CCT=2850, duv=+0.0014, CRI=91.9, R9=59, R12=83, Rf=91.0, Rg=99.9

too bad all IKEA above BBL

The newest insights are that (“western”?) people prefer the tint well under the BBL, which these bulbs are not, but they are only slightly above it, and I do not see an ugly tint.

Really quick post. First, thanks for all your new test additions guys.

Then, here is the updated table, with a first run at ordering it:

Since there are so many measurements being posted, I just want to remind everyone you should allow LED bulbs to warm up for a while before testing because Duv tends to drop significantly.

I so want to try some of these

Are there any good tube style replacements? I got a box of Hyperikon T8 bulbs that claim >= 90 CRI. They’re better than the fading florescents they replaced, but the PWM is noticeable sometimes.

Those look neat! I suppose flicker is obvious when used with a typical voltage chopping dimmer?

How long does one need to wait? Does this also apply to flashlights?

High output bulbs with mediocre cooling tend to heat up to 70-100°C within an hour. Since home lighting is used for prolonged periods, I would usually wait at least 15-30 minutes before taking the measurements. Similar shift in tint goes for flashlights too, but they’re mostly used in shorter bursts and as such with less heat generated at the emitter.

I use it with an IKEA fixture that may be especially made for this led, so I’m not sure if it is a normal voltage dimmer. But the dimming is certainly not up to BLF-standards :nerd_face: , not very smooth and at certain postions the cooler leds keep switching on and off (may I introduce “tint flicker” ? :party: )

Anyone tested this one (2200-4000K smart bulb):

For some reason Ikea doesn’t state CRI for that particular model.

Added in the draft new png table, in a kind of "promising chip" category.

You are right, we should build some recommandations for testing. Warming up is one, testing multiples bulbs (2/3) of the same spec (if the testers owns them of course, or can be offered them) and average the values could be another.

At any moment, if any of our dear testers wish to provide new measurements, I'd be glad to keep up to date and update our thread table, if needed.

Just took 30s to read the view of wavelightning take on CRI, and learned something about geography. According to them, in general the US way to describe CRI (Ra) is only based on R1-R8 values. But, the Chinese/European way to describe CRI is said to mostly involves the full R1-R14 scope. And sould be noted Re, with e for extended, but it might not always be the case. All our BLF testers posted here Ra values, so normally R1-R8, but do you think any your spectrometers softwares might misuse the term Ra and do a full Re computation instead?

I don't find this particular "304.084.70" 806lm version tested anywhere yet, but the 920lm version, according to this french website review, has its CRI varying between 85 @2700K & 82 @4000K. They advise the reader towards this other Tradfri kit instead, in regard to quality of light (92 in that case). But both published measurements lacks the interesting R9, R12 and Rf values.

At least my software tools (CT&A, ArgyllCMS spotread) use R1-R8 for Ra measurement, which is the CIE 13.3:1995 standard.

Here’s the data for the 950 lumen Ikea Trådfri model LED1546G12, which looks like has been discontinued. Not integrated nor warmed up for more than a couple minutes, just a quick test in front of the bulb.

Trådfri's performance in the red is disappointing. Did you had opportunity to test LIFX's and HUE's products in the past?

New found constetant: Lumicrest Apturi2 PAR30, a 3000K bulb whose manufacturer tests claim CRI 98, R9 95, R12 86, Rf 95. Unfortunately, 36$ per bulb.

Guys, I also found this:

I tested the Ikea LEDARE 3000K 600 lumens GU10 after being warmed up for an hour and got:

CCT: 2994K
DUV: –0.0005
Ra (CRI): 93.1
R9: 58.8
R12: 84.6
Rf: 91
Rg: 99
Blue Peak: 0.43

At cold start, DUV rating is about 0.0011

It is one of the best LED GU10 lights I’ve seen but still wish it had a DUV of –0.002 to –0.004 to make perfect for me.

Strangely I don’t see the 3000K version on their website now and they only sell a 2700K version.

Energy Star site shows only CRI 92/ R9 57

https://www.energystar.gov/productfinder/product/certified-light-bulbs/details/2289871

GE Lighting 31892 Clear Finish Light Reveal HD Dimmable LED A15 Ceiling Fan Bulb 4.5 (40-Watt-Replacement), 290-Lumen Medium Base:
CCT: 2835K
DUV: –0.0033
CRI (Ra): 95.0
R9: 68.0
Rf: 91
Rg: 100
Blue Peak: 0.39

Vintage LED Edison Bulbs 60 Watt Equivalent,Eye Protection Led Bulb with 95+ CRI, Non-Dimmable, Warm White 2700K,ST58 Antique LED Filament Bulbs, E26 Medium Base
CCT: 2241K
DUV: 0.0028
CRI (Ra): 97.2
R9: 83.8
Rf: 94
Rg: 98
Blue Peak: 0.15

E27 LED Corn Light Bulb, CRI Ra 95,Photography Video Studio Lighting Light,30W 3000lm-3500lm Daylight 6000K / Warm White 3000K,for Garage Workshop Street Lamp Post Lighting (Warm White)
CCT: 3245K
CRI (Ra): 96.7
DUV: –0.0021
R9: 85.8
Rf: 92
Rg: 100
Blue Peak: 0.59

Dimmable 5.5W G9 LED Bulb - 91 Ra, no Flickering, High CRI 8 Pack, 60-Watt Halogen Equivalent, 580 Lumens, Dimmable LED Bulbs, ETL Listed, Warm White 3000K, Omnidirectional Lighting
CCT: 2806K
DUV: –0.0028
CRI (Ra): 91.9
R9: 44.7
Rg: 100
Rf: 88

Emery Allen EA-G9-4.5W-001-3090-D Dimmable Miniature Bi-Pin Base JA8 Compliant LED Light Bulb, 120V-4.5Watt (50W Equivalent) 450 Lumens, 2700K
CCT: 2600k
DUV: –0.0011
CRI (Ra): 92.5
R9: 59.5
Rg: 98
Rf: 89

First : thanks to all our dear testers, in less than 3 days we have 35 candidates in this Quest. That is trouly outstanding!

So guys, discussing with Bocian & clemence (by alphabetical order) and with the cheerful help of maukka, qandeel and staticx57 we think we could assess the opportunity to push the initial idea of this topic a little further... by designing altogether what could be the "Ultimate LED Bulb".

  • This is not a commitment, yet, to make it happen,
  • This IS a commitment to think about it, and see if we can imagine something relevant (technically and financially)

But lets be optimistic right now. You know the drill, it would not the first time here some talents decide to gather their abilities thanks to BLF. And whatever, at the very least I guarantee we'll have fun discussing the matter and we'll learn a few things along the way. That never hurts.

So, the specs I'm currently "dreaming of" seeing coming to fruition:

  • 1 - Worldwide compatibility
    • E27/E26
    • 90-240V
    • 50-60Hz
  • 2 - LED
    • 100lm/w efficiency
    • Dimmable
    • At least an option to have Nichia's Optisolis onboard :) :)
      • But no ideologies, if some manufacturer can provide something better, we'd be glat to look at it
  • 3 - Light flux colorimetry :
    • ~1000lm
    • CRI Ra : 97+
    • CRI Re : 97+
    • R9 : 97+
    • R12 : 97+
    • Rf : 97+
    • Rg : 100+
    • Duv : -0.0003somethingish?
  • Target price : ?

Now, many questions:

  • To which extent can we push the colorimetry specs?
    • Like "is wanting at least 97 on most marks unfeasible dude?", or "could such ambition be a great drive/direction to do it?"
  • Which CCT(s) to target?
    • Could we offer a realistically "full" 2700-3000-4000-5000-6500 range?
    • Could we pick and tweak medium CCTs: like offer 3400K and 5500K (by mixing dies) to embrace the range without the added complexity of product multiplication?
  • Which price point to target?
    • To make it a reality at the very end, we have to offer something different/better than the current offering (see my first page table to get a hang of the current market) and appeal to real people
    • Which audience would buy it?
  • Can we do that on our own (meaning with our BLF talented artisans)? Do we need to seek manufacturers?
  • What techical bases to try/start on?
    • Should we go the COB way or go mPCB way?
  • Should we seek "design cleverness" and design the whole thing as "modular" (at least by design)?
    • with exchangeable base: put on your E26, your E27, your GU10, etc at will, all on the same head
    • with modular heads: one 400lm able, one 800lm able, etc (could a driver could even support such changes?)
    • or should we keep it simple? Like all we would intend to do at fist is a Proof Of Concept, KISS mantra style
  • Which competencies do we need?
    • Which member have those/could be willing to help?
  • What to learn/capitalize from previous GB / projects at BLF?
  • Have I already written too much?

That's all folks, I want to hear your take on all that :)