Looking forward to it!
Is that a 2-way clip for FW3A?
Yes, check the drop down list.
Wow, that’s gorgeous! Amazing. Reminds me of HDS, yet, superior because of that amazing Anduril UI. :+1:
I am… salivating over this. Super mod! 18350? Link to your mod thread? Would love to see the details. 
There are 18350 tubes available from Neal now, though grey alu only.
Thanks, that’s exactly what I was going for.
Can you please advise what size of a copper slug is needed?
Have one Novatac, dead, coming my way and i wanted to do the same thing but i have no lathe.
A guy i know has but i need exact measurements... if you could...
Better you strip your head out when you get it, then decide if this is the route you want to go…
There is quite a bit of lathe work the way I did mine… but then I can make different light engines and just swap them in and out… 
Previous post updated. I tried the pencil eraser idea and while it was better than a stock nubbin’ setup, the o-ring really is the trick. What’s needed is pressure to be applied close to the perimeter of the diaphragm switch. This effectively reduces the lever arm/mechanical advantage of the switch, thereby increasing activation pressure. Also, since it’s rubber and not hard plastic, the actuation is also quieter. I’m going to suggest Neal makes these available in his store, or better yet, included in the spare parts bag.
any local SF bay area modder? looking for help on my fw3a. Please pm me. thanks.
So it wasn't just copper pill added...?
Can you shoot me more details and specs in PM?
Take a close look at the pic…driver retainer ring at the bottom, so the head was bored to .900” (to which saves the retainer ring and bezel threads) and the aluminum pill .899” the copper pill was something I had laying around, the aluminum was counter sunk and the back of the pill was stepped and then pressed into the aluminum pill, the whole package push fits into the head and the glass o-ring and bezel press everything together. The original heat sink wouldn’t make contact with the back of the FW3A driver….just a different way of and easier for me of doing it as compared to the original design…. you’ll see when you strip yours…
Sorta like a P60 drop in…if you will… 
Alrighty then...this is going to be challenging!
Woah. I had a few orings available. I dunno exactly how I feel. That is much - much stiffer. I think I would want something a touch softer. That said, I’m going to run this mod in an edc FW3A and see how it goes. Maybe a thin rubber piece in the middle to soften it up. Definitely no accidental activation though! Thanks for the cool tip!
Small update. I added a couple layers of glow sticker punched to 3/16” for a thin shim. This softens the feel just a touch. Now it’s firm and is unlikely to activate accidentally but not too firm. Love it. I think I can edc this now much more comfortably without lockout.
I’ve ran it both ways and also prefer it with a center spacer, though the difference for me is minimal. I’ve been pocketing this light nearly everyday since I’ve made this mod and seriously can’t remember any incidents of accidental activation. I’d be surprised if your experience is any different.
Glad it worked out for you.
Great great suggestion!
Thank you, Jared!
I’d gotten used to doing lockouts on my FW3A. It’s pretty easy to do… but sometimes I forget. I decided to give your o-ring swap-in a try, as I have a mini o-ring kit that has a 3/16” ID sized one. I hadn’t taken out the nubbin before… so small. So easy to lose. Mine was in pretty tightly though. Anyway, I substituted the o-ring and wow, what a difference. The button is really tight now. Can’t activate from angled press. The only downside is that the click sound is like 3 times as loud now. It’ll take some time to get used to it. But the implicit safeguard for stopping accidental activation seems worth it. :+1:
EDIT: OK, I went for a day with the 3/16th ID o-ring and decided it was too firm. I stepped down to a 5/32nd o-ring. NOW, we’re talking. This is better. Still tight enough to prevent accidental activation, but requires less pressure & it’s about 30% quieter than with the 3/16th ID.