Let me explain it to you.
Yes, you can choose some mutually exclusive parameters. But also you can not choose anything, it is not neccesarry. Anyway I will send payment bill manually.
About letter on the end. What is it mean was in the rus language in price
Bronse - it was 2 years ago, I delete it, but in english version it can be as I see. I just fix it in 6w model. It mean how much leds will in lamp, for example in 12w led bulb can be 25w led, it will more effective.
6 - wattage. It is real, not fake like chinawatts
- bigger body
d - dimmable
x - eXperimental (tried to do cheaper)
s - switchable spectrums
for example on lamptest was 12D Titanium (platinum)
d - China sunlike (SOL)
D - Seoulsemico (SAW)
Now more leds is marked like 13D+ or 13D. Only on bodies.
this was 2 years ago. see model: 12D titan. it is w/o cover (diffuser) and with it
100lm per 1w from the line. 15% take off cover (diffuser)
First, congratulations Adam, you have the post #100 of this thread :)
Can you please add links pointing to those pictures instead of putting all them directly in the thread? I think you should also add explanations with each image, so everyone can understand their purposes and seek/analyse the relevant information in each.
All that will greatly enhance the readability of this thread and the visibility of your posts.
You are also welcome to create a dedicated "seller thread" in the "Commercial Sellers' Spot" section of BLF. You can find information about that in the Commercial dedicated FAQ. You can also ask an admin for further information, if needed. This way you will be able to expose all your products, giving all explanations and pictures as much as you wish.
Thanks Adam. That D,X,S explanation really cleared things up. And so did the fact that you don’t need to make choices in conflicting categories.
One last question, I noticed now that the specs don’t say what voltage they work with, just that they are E27 bases. This makes me think they might not work at all in the USA with our 120v lighting fixtures. Do they work on 120v?
Hi Sunlike, my slavic brother . I suppose Mordor means Russia? I am very interested in the following LEDs: COB SSC Sunlike 3030 SSC Sunlike
And really need to put them in my products (test series) and propably send some samples to Maukka What CCTs would be most desired? 3000K, 4000K or maybe 5000K?
I use 85-277v led drivers.
But when I add reusable fuse, I marked it like 220v on the body. If for USA, I add 2 times bigger fuse and marked it 110v
it is Qihan. dimmable marked 185-277, but I use it for 34-36v output only while it can give 65-68v, so it can work with 95-277v or lower voltage
Yes, Qihan produces good quality LED power supplies (I also use them in some projects), but selling to the EU market you should also think about adding LC filters at the AC input (Qihan has also CE certified power supplies with filters but unfortunately much more expensive).
you mean violet spectrum? Yes, it is all with violet. But I also bought some SOLs w\o violed spectrum for lamps for nail extension jobs, because some gels can polymerize in some situations with violet spectrum.
Also who manufacturin SOLs leds do leds for plants, I am going to do bulbs for additional light for plants. Spectrum is like sunlike + UV + IR
Guys, I'm pleased to announce I successfully arranged some shipments that are already travelling as we speak. So we'll have in the coming weeks new results from tests:
I found the 2800K version of this from a Finnish online store and will report back when I get it. The manufacturer told me that this bulb is about to be discontinued though and I couldn’t find the 4000K version for sale anymore.
I added input capacitance to a bunch of Qihan units I had lying around after reading a report of high mains output ripple by some fellow from Mordor or thereabouts, :-)) too. This is a QH-40W-LP with 3 × 15µF (cheap) capacitors:
Let me also share a photo of a 20W “Dark Energy” driver I bought from eBay, which came with good input capacitance:
The above unit had no components on the underside. And I couldn't find sense resistors above either, my guess is they are under the transformer.
It is good 20w led driver. I used it 4-5 years ago in lamps for plants. 25P model. But 600mA disappeared from sale. After that I moved to 20w led driver from Qihan =>22P
About ripple.
There is 2 types of led drivers from Qihan. 1st have no ripple (pulse) in out. This type only 5-20W
2nd is led drivers with good power factor (~0.97). There is only one way do do it not ripple - add capacitors in out.
No actually I don’t prefer violet spectrum for my needs as I’ve tried a few. I’m only looking for some to replace my current household lightbulbs for nighttime use. I prefer 2700K with a negative duv or below the Black Body Locus tint. I’ve tested many bulbs in the past and only the GE Reveal offers this combo but they keep burning out. Their reliability is the worst I’ve ever seen.
Wow that is some massive output capacitance! Am I seeing the driver came with 8.8mF (4 × 2.2mF), and you added 3 × 6.8mF = 20.4mF to fix the ripple? LoL!
What's wrong with adding high voltage input capacitors, the power factor goes down?
What he means by Duv is “Delta uv”, or the distance the CIE coordinates are from the Black Body Locus. You likely have never been asked that before, but on BLF it’s a huge deal to many users. Above the BBL is a greenish tint, that disgusts some people. And below the BBL is a reddish “Rosy” tint.
For me, a “rosy” Duv isn’t any better or worse than a “greenish” Duv. But some people need rosy.