King Kong 26650 is HARDCORE! 4525mAh and it's first cycle only!

Yeah great batteries if you have to add solder to them so you can use them, im surprised the battery reviewer did not pick that up Tongue Out . Im going to solder small light duty driver springs to the positive end and maybe even remove a driver spring on one of my torches. To recharge them im going to use a magnet on the negitive side and a aligator clip for the positive side. Also there is a bit of diffrence with the cells IR and mAh if any one has noticed yet when testing multible cells.

I soldered some amount of solder material at the positive end, not little, rather more, then just some seconds with dremel on them to clean and they work on trj12 without problem. Even a123 you can use there after such mods.

It's funny I got some cell samples recently that look just like that. Gold wrapper 26650. However they say ICR instead of INR. There are definitely 4500mAH+ 26650's out there.

Keep in mind though that your hobby charger is probably not very accurate. Infact my hobby chargers charge mAh readings is off by literally 10%! So you may want to verify the accuracy of your hobby charger. 4500mAH is possible for ICR, but not likely for INR.

For the record fresh MNKE IMR 4000mAh cells (while they were still being made) did about 4200mAh!

I think my Hype-RC X-treme Charger X8 overcharged my ICR26650E battery.

Here is the battery:

And here is what the charger displayed after charging:

Here is the charging graph:

I monitored the charging at my computer and wasn't concerned because the charger monitor programm showed 4.2v as you can see in the picture above. After seeing 4.35v at the actual charger display I tested the cell with my DMM and got an reading of 4.39v.

Any advice how to handle that cell?

Kingkong INR26650E Raised-Top 4000mAh Li-ion Battery

http://www.intl-outdoor.com/kingkong-inr26650e-raisedtop-4000mah-liion-battery-p-370.html

Ive been testing a trustfire protected 26650 5000 mAh battery.

1 amp discharge.

4523 mAh (matched the king kong's)

3 amp discharge.

4313 mAh (better then the king kong's)

5 amp discharge.

4533 mAh with the PCB removed (better then the king kong's)

A link to the thread.

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/8030

I'm glad I'm not your charger Benkie. You have given it a real flogging lately. Thanks for all your work.

Between the battery testing, charging my xbox controller batteries, digital camera batteries, my EDC torch batteries my charger has been on every day for over a week now, it has spent most of its life like that, its why i recommend the icharger 106B+ and my P350 power supply. Now I'm running test,s on some nimh's then cycling my RC batteries that have not been used in a while so no rest for my charger just yet.

Like a complete muppet I left my Poppas 878 XML ftt light on before going to work. It’s kind of my replacement bedroom light until I get round to fixing my light switch. Came back 5 hours later and the thing was still running on high with the King Kong, although it was very pale and flickering. I’ve got it on the charger now, any advice? Think I can still use this sucker?

Should have checked voltage first.. I wouldnt charge it unattended.

Thanks the advice, I’m keeping a close eye on it. Unfortunately I don’t have any equipment to check the voltage. Interesting to see what happens…

It's good advice. Really shouldn't be using an unprotected cell without checking voltage. 26650 packs a lot of power.

I know, I need to get round to purchasing some hardware to measure voltage of these suckers, might as well as it seems I’m newly smitten by this flashaholics disease. I doubt I’ll find anything like this from where I’m living at the moment, I’m pretty remote in a small city in the central Highlands.

Any advise on where I can order any equipment?

Any hardware store should sell DMMs...

Dallas fan:

I'm not sure how many Hardware stores you have in the Central Highlands of Vietnam. They are quite common here in the states, however. Do you have a favorite vendor for flashlights online? All the major sellers (MF, KD, DX, etc.) carry relatively cheap digital multi-meters. I don't think you need to go overboard and get a Fluke or anything like that. :)

I have one from Walmart that cost me <$25. Recently picked one up for <$5 from Harbor Freight. I've tested both and for battery voltage or current checking, they are very close to each other. Not the best, I know, but certainly better than nothing.

@ Manafont: http://www.manafont.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=multimeter&log=&x=6&y=5

@ Dealextreme: http://s.dealextreme.com/search/multimeter

@ Kaidomain: http://s.dealextreme.com/search/multimeter

@ DinoDung: http://www.dinodirect.com/se-multimeter/

Thanks for the links betweenrides, if I can’t find anything or get anything shipped within the country I’ll order from the links you’ve provided, and have to wait an excruciating long period of time thanks to the fast customs around here.

I pretty much order all my lights from a couple of shops in Vietnam, but they don’t sell digital multi-meters. They’re just small famliy owned businesses with small collections of flashlights.There are hundreds of tiny family business hardware stores here that sell very very basic equipment, I mean stuff like spades and simple farming equipment!! None of that fancy electric stuff, they’d probably laugh if I asked for a digital multi-meter or think I’m from mars :D. At least I know what a DMM is now so I know what to look for :slight_smile:

Actually managed to find a DMM locally! That is after a couple of days wandering around fruitlessly going from shop to shop. The voltage reading for the King Kong came back at 3.67V, this is after 1 hour on charge the other night, so seems to be fine. Not bad considering it was left on high mode for 5 hours in my POPPAS 878 XML FTT. The DMM I found is pretty hopeless though for measuring current, even though it has a 10A socket and appropriate Amp range. Tail cap readings seem way to low for a pretty much all my flashlights. So I’ll try one from manafont as I want to get in on the tailcap readings.

Thanks everyone for your advice…

Try using thicker wires. Speaker cable works great.

King Kong's take forever to charge! I'm using an Xtar WP2 II (1 amp) or a UPS single bay (650mAh) to charge. Not unusual to take 5-6 hours to reach 4.2v.

Been taking your advice nightcrawl and I’ve since purchased several leads and cables, including some pretty thick copper cables.

Seems now for the most part to be giving me accurate readings, bar my Trustfire TR-3T6 which I’m only getting 2.10amps off 2 cells (3A off 1 cell), which means it’s under performing (compared to other reviewers readings) or I still don’t have good enough cables to measure higher amps or it’s the DMM I have. Kind of driving me a little crazy