✌ FREEME- ASTROLUX MF01 Mini 7*SST20 CRI95 26650 ANDÚRIL Flashlight Group Buy - $45.99

Whoops, should have specified.

Link from HJK’s site.

Nothing special, but it’s damn hard to get 26650s in AU.

Okay, the 5200mah are the older, weak ones. This explains the giant difference you saw.

Yeah, I’d love to get one of those Shockli 26650s, but nigh-on impossible to get here.

sigh

I found out that the LVP goes by the same voltage it blinks out (the MCU blinks the voltage it sees and LVP is controlled by the MCU). So if the voltage reads a bit lower than actual, LVP will activate a bit sooner.

I dont think there is much in the way of fixing the thermal stepdown behavior. On some driver designs the stepdown works well and on others it acts not so great.

Has anyone tried setting the top of the ramp a tiny bit higher or lower and then checked how the thermal stepdown responds? Maybe it will change.

They are also sold as Vapcell 5500 and Keeppower 5500/6000. Have you tried a search for those? I guess it just depends on whether any stores in your country are importing them. Theoretically, if one of your stores can get the older Keeppower 5200, they may also be able to get the newer 5500/6000.

I just got the full copper version today and took these measurements using Golisi 4300mah batteries:

Copper SST-20 4000K Max Output (stock lens)
Output: 4,181 lumens
CCT: 4019
DUV: –0.0009
Ra (CRI): 96.5
R9: 86.9
R12: 83.0
Rf: 94
Rg: 101

Copper SST-20 4000K Max Output (UCL lens)
Output: 4,362 lumens
CCT: 4028K
DUV: –0.0019
Ra (CRI): 96.7
R9: 89.2
R12: 84.1
Rf: 94
Rg: 102

EDIT: Updated test with Vapcell 26650 4200mah, Copper SST-20 4000K Max Output (UCL lens): 4410 lumens and 4,480 lumens

I’m surprised the copper version is so much brighter than my silver aluminum version. Also the cct is cooler and the tint is much better (less green). I wonder if Lumintop used the FA3 tint bin in the copper version and the FD2 tint bin in the aluminum version. TA said Lumintop was able to buy about 1,000 of the FA3 tint bin emitters and the rest were the FD2 tint bins.

I wonder if the brighter output is due to a better emitter bin or is it because copper conducts better. I tested swapping the copper and aluminum tubes in both lights and didn’t see any change in output in both lights so at least we know copper tube will not increase output.

Despite measuring brighter, the copper version actually doesn’t look as bright on the wall because the hotspot is noticeably less defined as if it is shined through a diffused optic. The aluminum one has an obvious circular hotspot, with the hotspot yellower than the spill. The copper version hotspot tint and spill tint is the same so maybe that’s why I don’t see a defined hotspot but it’s strange since the emitter is the same SST-20 under the same optic. The more negative DUV of the copper version really makes things look nicer, cleaner, and more neutral white. I’m a fan of very warm temps but not yellow tint (+DUV), so to me I like the copper version beam color much more than the aluminum version.

Btw, the Golisi 4300mah produces 13% higher output compared to the Shockli/Vapcell 5500mah. However, Golisi 4300mah measures about 4,200mah whereas Shockli/Vapcell 5500mah measures about 6,000mah.

FET driver lights are not known for their consistency. :stuck_out_tongue:

I guess you are right since I see variations between E07 also. However the two MF01s that I have measured the same output.

I have tried to change the max ramp level up and down and no matter the level it starts to step down after few seconds, something that i noticed is that in Lower voltage 3.8V and down of the battery this isn’t happening, another case is when i ramp a few times it starts to sustain the max ramp level. So i don’t have an idea where exactly is the problem.

I like the more yellow FD2 bins that FF uses over the MF01’s ‘cooler more white’ 4000k bins, whatever bin that maybe. The FD2 of FF looks ‘rich yellow’ while the astrolux looks more white.

Man, I have no idea. I’ve never heard of this happening. Toykeeper doesnt know either and she’s the one who wrote Anduril.

Is the light usable or is it always ramping down?

Have you tried setting the stepdown temp to it’s highest level?

Have you calibrated the temperature?

Hi guys I wanted to address the most common issues with this light and some solutions I found, but I decided not to spam freemes thread so much so I made a new one for technical issues with this light:

Its based on info I got from Lexel and ToyKeeper. It adresses thinks like LVP, incorrect voltage measurement and the light throttling down from max ramp.

And where does one buy such a UCL lens?

Tint on the 4000K is worse than I expected. Now I’m torn between trying to lower the DUV by swapping three leds to 2700K SST-20’s or swapping all to 4000K SW40 219B’s.

UCL is trademark name.
flashlightlens.com

Thanks. I hope they are willing to send a lens in a regular envelope for 4 bucks to the EU…

What size lens does the MF01 mini take? I have one on the way (SST-20 4000k).

40.05mm x 1.90mm is what I bought

I tested the 2700K SST-20 in the E07 and I really like the tint. If mixed with the 4000K FD2, it should result in a very rosy tint.

Depending on the batch of SW40 you get, it might not even be as rosy as the SST-20 FD2 at turbo.

The target would be to get a acceptable (= zero duv or below) 200lm mode. I see the 2700K is in the BBL at that power, but the FD2 quite high above it.

Actually I don’t like rosiness at 4000K but prefer a neutral- slightly rosy tint.

From my experience 4000K on the BBL is a little yellowish for my liking. 4000K at DUV –0.002 looks much more neutral. 4000K with DUV of –0.003 to –0.004 for me seems perfect neutral white because I don’t see any yellow or pink unless I compare it side by side with another light of different tint. Maybe it’s my eyes or the ambient environment I’m in.