Ultimate LED Bulbs - Ultra High CRI - The Honorable Quest

They seem to have a CRI of 80 and nothing more published. That’s a bad sign.

I really want to make a batch of optisolis bulbs (spot type 45deg) for all around my house. 120VAC

What bulb can fit the nichia optisolis VS35SP36?

What is the general maximum wattage a standard bulb can withstand from LEDs also accounting for the driver?

The best case scenario is if the bulb already outputs at 1S or 3S which the VS35SP36 can change to. And then, I just pull out the original LEDs and place the mcpcb on top.

I have never modded a bulb before so I assume they glue them very well for safety. I don’t mind cutting and regluing or things similar to this.

Yea this seems like a good option to me too. But I haven’t sacrificed one of everything yet to find a good host.

If you’re talking a standard, smooth a19 or a21 shape with a plastic or glass cover then likely 7-10 watts max, about like a flashlight. Older more expensive wavy bases can probably dissipate more heat, but you don’t see those any more. Those big corn shape ones might do a little more but since it’s ultimately going to sink at the base where your power circuitry is, I wouldn’t bet any money unless you’ve got a fan pointed at it. Power circuitry is where most of my lights have failed excluding some crappy chinese sticks (leds and pcb literally burned first on that)

I’m picking up this but don’t have any testing gear, but I can already predict the disappointment because I seriously doubt it can dissipate the heat… 37.62€ 41% OFF|Hohe CRI Ra 95 + E27 Led lampen Mais Lampe 40W AC85 265V Ultra Helle 5500K Tageslicht Weiß 4000LM für Fotografie Video Studio|LED-Birnen & Röhren| - AliExpress
On the other hand since it supports a wider power input maybe it will survive this crazy 125v “green” utility power that kills everything except incandescents around here…Landlord said all the common LED makers told him they will not warranty unless he installed power conditioning…

I've taken the opportunity of some 11.11 free time to update and migrate our original old "High CRI table".

It is now a Google Doc, easily readable and shareable online.

It contains all the numbers and info we have shared here so far, including direct links to the various tests for references. Doing that I realised there was an error with the "Qf" formula, now corrected. Hope you all will enjoy it, and that it will ease readability.

As always, please feel free to make suggestions or corrections.

I've updated it to be up to date of this topic, feel also free to point me any missing info.

May I suggest that instead of having two topics on BLF for a common subject, we unit our energy and efforts towards one community goal? As proposed and already started in this topic, I'm pleased to discuss formula/scale, bulbs, or any other matter.

plastic body :person_facepalming:

will go to trash after some months

Yeah… the only leds that will last long will have the fancy finned aluminum heatsink like Sunlike… the high price might make you balk but considering the price of a heatsink like that + the leds you suddenly aren’t getting such a bad deal.

I have an itching suspicion it’s not worth using anything other than Sunlike even ignoring that crazy high cri unless you’re using disposable $2- bulbs…my halogen bulbs always outlast led and power is cheap here >_<

In Overview - Specifications it says 7. Material: Aluminum Case. In the Specifications tab: Body Material: Aluminum. I'm not sure about the validity of the overview data but the specifications pretty much nails it down with regards to filing a dispute.

So, if the bulbs are @#$% VaKo will easily get his money back.

it is not sarcasm?

s. halogen bulbs from GE works exactly 2000 hours

Alas no, it is aluminium, and gets quite warm after extended use. It also stops being warm fairly quickly after you turn it off leading one to assume it is indeed doing heatsinky things.

if you meant my halogen comment no, all the LEDs I’ve had died pretty fast and with little use (almost all 1600 lumen), the power here fluctuates from 115-125v. can your bulbs tolerate the higher voltage spikes from hydro/wind power? Cree, phillips, etc told landlord to install power conditioning…

I’ve never had a PC power supply, monitor, tv etc die from this dirty utility’s power, but I’ve had a few UPS die and lots and lots of LEDs…the leds mostly looked like something was burned.

It’s not just me either, nearly any given LED on amazon etc has reviewers saying they die fast…

led drivers, what I use, works with 85-277v. For 110v I use twice bigger reusable fuse.

Just try to read (with translator) this why ordinary led bulbs die so fast

I have had decent luck and my power isnt all bad but I bought these expensive GU10 philips bulbs a when they were like $29/ea for a hard to reach fixture. A few died after 2.5 years and philips asked me a few questions via email. I scanned my receipt/UPC which I kept 1 of for each of the 5 I bought and they cut me a check for full retail I paid almost 3 years prior. I ended up replacing all 5 in that fixture for way less than the check they sent me. Felt pretty good!

Do you ship to the US?

I would be a bit careful rushing to conclusions. Many LED bulbs are not built to and are not rated for enclosed fixtures mostly due to the heat dissapation issues.I even have several use cases for LED lamps in enclosed fixtures. There’s not much I can do about that other then running the lamps for short spurts and hope for the best.

Another instance, is people trying to get unreasonable amounts of light from older fixtures by spec’ing the highest output lamps they can get their hands on, “after all these fixtures were rated for 60 watt incandescent, what harm will it do if I use 60 watts of LED per lampholder?” Except that the heat dissapation for LEDs means that higher output lamps will end up cooking themselves alive. I had a friend do just this with a with one of those quad ceiling lamps. They used x4 1600 lumen 5000K A19s, and you could smell the electronics burning. This is totally discounting the ugly glare that a whopping 6400 lumens of LED put out.

I’m not, and you’re wrong. These mainstream lights are cheap crap, period.

#1: fixtures are not rated for heat dissipation, but fire prevention. You know how hot incandescents get, right? RIGHT? Can you install an LED bulb that exceeds its fixture or socket wattage rating? | Waveform Lighting

#2: none of my lights were ever enclosed, not even partially.

If you read sunlike’s blog, all the US lights I took apart had 105C crap brand capacitors…and insufficient heatsinking which seemed like some kind of ceramic rather than aluminum. Chinese ones were 85C only…
EDIT: and it sounds like your friend experienced the “joys” of Hyperikon or some noname china brand with those burnouts… glare is a non issue it depends though…

I posted all of my LED strips/bulbs test results in this thread. They are mostly LED strips.

WorldWide (5:money_mouth_face:, except Zimbabwe (Rhodesia)

You don’t know to what long term operational tolerances the engineers had in mind. You have some general idea of some of the limitations of some of the hardware. Also, can you confirm what fixtures all those people were using those failed bulbs in? When push comes to shove, a reputable manufacturer will stand behind their product. but a small company that went out of existence won’t. Buying from a small startup company that claims some few great things large scale is not the wisest decision. Large scale street light installations are a good example of this with cities frequently choosing the big manufacturers like Cree, GE, and Leotek. They don’t want to end up down the road with a bunch of failing lights, like Berkley or Detroit, and not have something to fall back onto. Good luck claiming a mass warranty failure from bankrupt/closed/merger-ed company! Not to derail this thread since these sun-likes look really good.

Nope. They were not Hyperikons.

Glare is very much an issue. It’s why we have things like minimum and sometimes maxmimum recommended light levels and daylighting methods that reduce the sun’s glare through skylights with things recessing and panelization.