Really sorry to revive this thread, but is there a 19mm version of the Rev5 bottom board? I'll be using it with the Big Switch top board (forward clicky switch) but my host only takes 19mm tailswitch boards.
Was trying to make my own in Altium Designer but I have no clue what I'm doing lol please help
By asking for the “bottom board”, I’m assuming that’s the switch board (tail spring on one side, switch on the other).
While I haven’t seen an Oshpark posting for that, I’ll say that I’ve probably made 50+ illuminated tailcaps and have never once used one of the bottom boards. Unless you’re going for the potentiometer-under-spring functionally, I don’t see any reason in replacing the switch board.
I think I'm a bit confused here, how is the power supplied to the ring board (top) if you don't use the base switch PCB which has the through holes for the wire?
You can run wires directly from the new PCB to the existing one (I solder mine directly to the legs of the switch)
Does polarity matter or can I use either contact on the switch for the + and - on the ring board?
The switch has no polarity, it can go either way.
But I’m not clear how this is being wired in and polarity does matter with the leds so wait for gchart to answer.
On your switch board, one side will have vias (the holes) on the outer ring. That’s your positive side.
Ohh, I see now. Thanks you guys! Will be building this into a laser so hopefully this works.
There is no reason to be sorry about that.
Probably a stupid question but is there a way to have the lighted tailcap only come on when the lights on?
Not typically, no. Turning on the switch creates a direct path for current to flow through the tail. Between an LED and the switch, the path of least resistance would be the switch and the LED wouldn’t get any/enough current flow.
That could be done with an e-switch light though.
I wanted to have 1 more color for a lighted tailcap. This time I mean it - no more after this! I have all the normal colors (blue, green, white, red, orange) and some other colors (pink, warm white, cool blue). Yellow looks great, but is a bad choice since it’s so inefficient. I’ve tried purple/UV and yellow/green, but also found out they are very inefficient.
So I decided to make my own color. I tried dual colors, like pink on 1 side and green on the other, but I prefer to have just 1 color. I eventually ended up with mixing green and blue to make aqua. Green is the most efficient by far so I wanted to incorporate it, and blue is pretty good too. I actually have 3 different types of blues, so I picked the 1 that created the best color of aqua.
Here’s how I mixed the green and blue. Since green is so efficient, I had to double the resistance (22 Kiloohms + 22 Kiloohms) on the green 0805 SMD LEDs vs the blue. I ended up with 0.15 milliamps at 4.1 volts.
The left picture is the best I can do to show how the aqua looks (middle top) and the right is all of my custom lighted tailcaps (aqua again is middle top).
Looks great! I love me some flashlight bling.
Thanks gchart!
Haha, I have done all the things that you have done too NeutralFan, including fiddling with resistors for finetuning the balances.
To challenge your “no more after this”, on aliexpress, with some searching, you will find 0603 leds of several tints aqua and cyan (I have 480nm, 490nm, 500nm) that are genuine single colour leds (not phosfor- converted) and are fairly efficient so suitable for lighted tails. Also a phosfor-converted aqua can be found (blue led mixed with some green emitting phosfor) that is really efficient.
Thanks for the info djozz! I’ll have to look for those tiny LEDs, but look just for the sake of curiosity. 
I think I’m beating my head into a wall on this, but is there a simple way to get the lighted tailcap visible through the metal S2+ switches? I’m trying to get lights behind a purple host.
Ideally it’d be quite dim, even in pitch black - it’s for my daughter’s bedside table, just so she has a point of reference to grab it. I do want to change the colours though, so I realise there’s probably different resistances needed.
I got some of the lit tailcap boards from Convoy, but they’re nigh-on-invisible through the cap. I tried removing the resistors and just joining the path, and they flash bright momentarily, then go back to exactly the same brightness they were with the resistors on.
If it gets too hard I’m happy to buy something else, but l4p is down, and I (to be honest) haven’t yet checked if Lexel is still doing them.
Did you install a bleed resistor on the driver? Which driver is in the light?
No resistor as I’m not worried about mode changing, and a Biscotti one, 4*7135. Custom mode though (1,2,3,0).