Alas no, it is aluminium, and gets quite warm after extended use. It also stops being warm fairly quickly after you turn it off leading one to assume it is indeed doing heatsinky things.
if you meant my halogen comment no, all the LEDs I’ve had died pretty fast and with little use (almost all 1600 lumen), the power here fluctuates from 115-125v. can your bulbs tolerate the higher voltage spikes from hydro/wind power? Cree, phillips, etc told landlord to install power conditioning…
I’ve never had a PC power supply, monitor, tv etc die from this dirty utility’s power, but I’ve had a few UPS die and lots and lots of LEDs…the leds mostly looked like something was burned.
It’s not just me either, nearly any given LED on amazon etc has reviewers saying they die fast…
led drivers, what I use, works with 85-277v. For 110v I use twice bigger reusable fuse.
Just try to read (with translator) this why ordinary led bulbs die so fast
I have had decent luck and my power isnt all bad but I bought these expensive GU10 philips bulbs a when they were like $29/ea for a hard to reach fixture. A few died after 2.5 years and philips asked me a few questions via email. I scanned my receipt/UPC which I kept 1 of for each of the 5 I bought and they cut me a check for full retail I paid almost 3 years prior. I ended up replacing all 5 in that fixture for way less than the check they sent me. Felt pretty good!
Do you ship to the US?
I would be a bit careful rushing to conclusions. Many LED bulbs are not built to and are not rated for enclosed fixtures mostly due to the heat dissapation issues.I even have several use cases for LED lamps in enclosed fixtures. There’s not much I can do about that other then running the lamps for short spurts and hope for the best.
Another instance, is people trying to get unreasonable amounts of light from older fixtures by spec’ing the highest output lamps they can get their hands on, “after all these fixtures were rated for 60 watt incandescent, what harm will it do if I use 60 watts of LED per lampholder?” Except that the heat dissapation for LEDs means that higher output lamps will end up cooking themselves alive. I had a friend do just this with a with one of those quad ceiling lamps. They used x4 1600 lumen 5000K A19s, and you could smell the electronics burning. This is totally discounting the ugly glare that a whopping 6400 lumens of LED put out.
I’m not, and you’re wrong. These mainstream lights are cheap crap, period.
#1: fixtures are not rated for heat dissipation, but fire prevention. You know how hot incandescents get, right? RIGHT? Can you install an LED bulb that exceeds its fixture or socket wattage rating? | Waveform Lighting
#2: none of my lights were ever enclosed, not even partially.
If you read sunlike’s blog, all the US lights I took apart had 105C crap brand capacitors…and insufficient heatsinking which seemed like some kind of ceramic rather than aluminum. Chinese ones were 85C only…
EDIT: and it sounds like your friend experienced the “joys” of Hyperikon or some noname china brand with those burnouts… glare is a non issue it depends though…
I posted all of my LED strips/bulbs test results in this thread. They are mostly LED strips.
WorldWide (5:money_mouth_face:, except Zimbabwe (Rhodesia)
You don’t know to what long term operational tolerances the engineers had in mind. You have some general idea of some of the limitations of some of the hardware. Also, can you confirm what fixtures all those people were using those failed bulbs in? When push comes to shove, a reputable manufacturer will stand behind their product. but a small company that went out of existence won’t. Buying from a small startup company that claims some few great things large scale is not the wisest decision. Large scale street light installations are a good example of this with cities frequently choosing the big manufacturers like Cree, GE, and Leotek. They don’t want to end up down the road with a bunch of failing lights, like Berkley or Detroit, and not have something to fall back onto. Good luck claiming a mass warranty failure from bankrupt/closed/merger-ed company! Not to derail this thread since these sun-likes look really good.
Nope. They were not Hyperikons.
Glare is very much an issue. It’s why we have things like minimum and sometimes maxmimum recommended light levels and daylighting methods that reduce the sun’s glare through skylights with things recessing and panelization.
As far as the durability is concerned, the lifespan of the lights are most likely dependent on the electrolytic capacitors on the driver circuits. LED failed visibly flickering usually caused by capacitor failures.
So, make sure that wherever you sourced the driver from, the capacitors must be of high-quality with high hour-rating and temperature. The driver compartment of the LED light is usually toasty.
That's terrific, thanks for this documentation!
Light quality-wise, in order to ease separation of bulbs, I wish to insist a bit more on R9 and R12: both sides of the Achille's heel for many high CRI claiming lights. To achieve that I'm proposing the following tweak to the current Qf formula :
Qf = [(Ra *1)+(R9*3)+(R12*3)+(Rf*3)] / 10 >> Qf = [(Ra *1)+(R9*3)+(R12*3)+(Rf*2)] / 9
That way :
- There is a bit more progressivity: "R9 = R12 > Rf > Ra"
- Ra is a third of the R9 and R12 importance
- The recent Rf is two times more important than the older Ra
What do you think?
Is there any practical difference between korean/china sunlike leds aside from china being cheaper and higher cri? Like… is the mtbf double on korean ones???
Does not ship to USA, California due to some California regulations based on the response I got from them. I wanted to purchase a few bulbs from them to test and then a set to put in my house if it is good.
Is there any alternatives?
I went on sunlikelamp.com, But the site is difficult to understand, each LED has a chart of 7 tests with varying R9 values. I don’t know what matches to what. Anyone have experience from them? I want to test their bulbs. They also do not show the duv/tint value I believe. I definitely want something below BBL, or a tiny bit rosy.
I just ordered a bulb from him. The website could definitely use some updating. The charts are labelled with the LED so you can figure out which one matches the model # of the option you selected.
I live in California and have bought from waveformlighting before. You can see test results in my earlier link.
I was in check out and was blocked from shipping. Could you try again to see if it was a new policy waveformlighting added?
It’s a little naughty, but you might be able to bypass the restriction by choosing “Nevada” as the state, then adding the letters “CA” to your town name. The website should be none the wiser, and the delivery company will figure it out.
I entered my address and it gave me shipping options. I suggest you send them an email. Also try using another browser.