But that is totally not the opinion of the general population on BLF. Opinion here is that nothing trumps a 219b.
Many people wanting rosy tints for flashlights (although many don’t for ultimate sunlight/color accuracy) leads them to the 219B as it’s the only high CRI flashlight-sized emitter that offers it. Many here are aware the Optisolis, several brands of COBs and other products still blow them away in CRI/R9/R12/etc.
Problem is solved with tint mixing so kind of a moot point. Leave 219B behind already. There is plenty of space and diffusion in a lightbulb to not have to consider 219B, ever.
I can confirm the 1600 lumen Hyperikons fry themselves after a few months. I have heard the 800s do not but they should also be a lot less hot. You literally can’t touch them they are so hot.
Joshk wrote:
Oh, I agree with you 100% about Nichia 219b not being the best and COBs being better. But that is totally not the opinion of the general population on BLF. Opinion here is that nothing trumps a 219b.
Literally no one is selling better emitters in good lights, like the FF E07…we are stuck with 219b until China offers better in mass production…I would kill for Optisolis in my lights
Only thing that comes close to 219B SW45 in products you can actually obtain is the SST20 with its crappy 3800k greenish CCT.
—
I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:
Fireflies NOV-MU 21 4500k E21A (preorder)
Fireflies ROT66 219B SW45 D220
Fireflies E07 219B SW45
Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)
Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)
That depends on the bin you get. Some manufacturers have been better then others green wise with better bins. The 4000K and 3500K 219B also biase pretty warm if I remember to. I’d kill for some E21A multi-emitter lights. Optisolis is pretty good, but it’s limited current wise, and the E21A has good tint and better CCT flexibility.
Anybody have any experience with Ketra’s A20 and PAR36 bulbs? They have a fully-adjustable CCT from 1400k to 10000k @ >90 CRI. CCT is maintained within one Macadam ellipse (centered on the black body locus?) as LEDs age using a control loop that monitors output.
I forgot to mention California’s title 24 lighting requirement makes finding cheap good lights easier. It requires min 80 r9 but the cheap ones like Phillips are usually max 3000k. Took like 2 years for that law to dent the scammy high cri market……of course lobbyists complained…
—
I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:
Fireflies NOV-MU 21 4500k E21A (preorder)
Fireflies ROT66 219B SW45 D220
Fireflies E07 219B SW45
Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)
Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)
I now have a table of light bulbs with the corresponding CRI Grade. I have a lot of data from my spectrometer, but so far the only LED technology to earn an A is the SunLike! Please note the bulbs with a * were not tested by me (like the SunLike).
Help me add to the table by sending me links to high CRI bulbs! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69967
I really want to make a batch of optisolis bulbs (spot type 45deg) for all around my house. 120VAC
What bulb can fit the nichia optisolis VS35SP36?
What is the general maximum wattage a standard bulb can withstand from LEDs also accounting for the driver?
The best case scenario is if the bulb already outputs at 1S or 3S which the VS35SP36 can change to. And then, I just pull out the original LEDs and place the mcpcb on top.
I have never modded a bulb before so I assume they glue them very well for safety. I don’t mind cutting and regluing or things similar to this.
What is the general maximum wattage a standard bulb can withstand from LEDs also accounting for the driver?
If you’re talking a standard, smooth a19 or a21 shape with a plastic or glass cover then likely 7-10 watts max, about like a flashlight. Older more expensive wavy bases can probably dissipate more heat, but you don’t see those any more. Those big corn shape ones might do a little more but since it’s ultimately going to sink at the base where your power circuitry is, I wouldn’t bet any money unless you’ve got a fan pointed at it. Power circuitry is where most of my lights have failed excluding some crappy chinese sticks (leds and pcb literally burned first on that)
I’m picking up this but don’t have any testing gear, but I can already predict the disappointment because I seriously doubt it can dissipate the heat… https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000232096487.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.3d...
On the other hand since it supports a wider power input maybe it will survive this crazy 125v “green” utility power that kills everything except incandescents around here…Landlord said all the common LED makers told him they will not warranty unless he installed power conditioning…
—
I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:
Fireflies NOV-MU 21 4500k E21A (preorder)
Fireflies ROT66 219B SW45 D220
Fireflies E07 219B SW45
Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)
Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)
I've taken the opportunity of some 11.11 free time to update and migrate our original old "High CRI table".
It is now a Google Doc, easily readable and shareable online.
It contains all the numbers and info we have shared here so far, including direct links to the various tests for references. Doing that I realised there was an error with the "Qf" formula, now corrected. Hope you all will enjoy it, and that it will ease readability.
As always, please feel free to make suggestions or corrections.
I've updated it to be up to date of this topic, feel also free to point me any missing info.
I now have a table of light bulbs with the corresponding CRI Grade. I have a lot of data from my spectrometer, but so far the only LED technology to earn an A is the SunLike! Please note the bulbs with a * were not tested by me (like the SunLike). Help me add to the table by sending me links to high CRI bulbs! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69967
May I suggest that instead of having two topics on BLF for a common subject, we unit our energy and efforts towards one community goal? As proposed and already started in this topic, I'm pleased to discuss formula/scale, bulbs, or any other matter.
I picked up 3 of the 5000K versions, really nice tint and color rendition.
plastic body
will go to trash after some months
Yeah… the only leds that will last long will have the fancy finned aluminum heatsink like Sunlike… the high price might make you balk but considering the price of a heatsink like that + the leds you suddenly aren’t getting such a bad deal.
I have an itching suspicion it’s not worth using anything other than Sunlike even ignoring that crazy high cri unless you’re using disposable $2- bulbs…my halogen bulbs always outlast led and power is cheap here >_<
—
I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:
Fireflies NOV-MU 21 4500k E21A (preorder)
Fireflies ROT66 219B SW45 D220
Fireflies E07 219B SW45
Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)
Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)
I picked up 3 of the 5000K versions, really nice tint and color rendition.
plastic body
will go to trash after some months
In Overview - Specifications it says 7. Material: Aluminum Case. In the Specifications tab: Body Material: Aluminum. I'm not sure about the validity of the overview data but the specifications pretty much nails it down with regards to filing a dispute.
So, if the bulbs are @#$% VaKo will easily get his money back.
—
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I picked up 3 of the 5000K versions, really nice tint and color rendition.
plastic body
will go to trash after some months
Yeah… the only leds that will last long will have the fancy finned aluminum heatsink like Sunlike… the high price might make you balk but considering the price of a heatsink like that + the leds you suddenly aren’t getting such a bad deal.
I have an itching suspicion it’s not worth using anything other than Sunlike even ignoring that crazy high cri unless you’re using disposable $2- bulbs…my halogen bulbs always outlast led and power is cheap here >_<
it is not sarcasm?
p.s. halogen bulbs from GE works exactly 2000 hours
I picked up 3 of the 5000K versions, really nice tint and color rendition.
plastic body
will go to trash after some months
Alas no, it is aluminium, and gets quite warm after extended use. It also stops being warm fairly quickly after you turn it off leading one to assume it is indeed doing heatsinky things.
I picked up 3 of the 5000K versions, really nice tint and color rendition.
plastic body
will go to trash after some months
Yeah… the only leds that will last long will have the fancy finned aluminum heatsink like Sunlike… the high price might make you balk but considering the price of a heatsink like that + the leds you suddenly aren’t getting such a bad deal.
I have an itching suspicion it’s not worth using anything other than Sunlike even ignoring that crazy high cri unless you’re using disposable $2- bulbs…my halogen bulbs always outlast led and power is cheap here >_<
it is not sarcasm?
p.s. halogen bulbs from GE works exactly 2000 hours
if you meant my halogen comment no, all the LEDs I’ve had died pretty fast and with little use (almost all 1600 lumen), the power here fluctuates from 115-125v. can your bulbs tolerate the higher voltage spikes from hydro/wind power? Cree, phillips, etc told landlord to install power conditioning…
I’ve never had a PC power supply, monitor, tv etc die from this dirty utility’s power, but I’ve had a few UPS die and lots and lots of LEDs…the leds mostly looked like something was burned.
It’s not just me either, nearly any given LED on amazon etc has reviewers saying they die fast…
—
I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:
Fireflies NOV-MU 21 4500k E21A (preorder)
Fireflies ROT66 219B SW45 D220
Fireflies E07 219B SW45
Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)
Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)
I picked up 3 of the 5000K versions, really nice tint and color rendition.
plastic body
will go to trash after some months
Yeah… the only leds that will last long will have the fancy finned aluminum heatsink like Sunlike… the high price might make you balk but considering the price of a heatsink like that + the leds you suddenly aren’t getting such a bad deal.
I have an itching suspicion it’s not worth using anything other than Sunlike even ignoring that crazy high cri unless you’re using disposable $2- bulbs…my halogen bulbs always outlast led and power is cheap here >_<
it is not sarcasm?
p.s. halogen bulbs from GE works exactly 2000 hours
if you meant my halogen comment no, all the LEDs I’ve had died pretty fast and with little use (almost all 1600 lumen), the power here fluctuates from 115-125v. can your bulbs tolerate the higher voltage spikes from hydro/wind power? Cree, phillips, etc told landlord to install power conditioning…
I’ve never had a PC power supply, monitor, tv etc die from this dirty utility’s power, but I’ve had a few UPS die and lots and lots of LEDs…the leds mostly looked like something was burned.
It’s not just me either, nearly any given LED on amazon etc has reviewers saying they die fast…
led drivers, what I use, works with 85-277v. For 110v I use twice bigger reusable fuse.
…all the LEDs I’ve had died pretty fast and with little use (almost all 1600 lumen), the power here fluctuates from 115-125v. can your bulbs tolerate the higher voltage spikes from hydro/wind power? Cree, phillips, etc told landlord to install power conditioning…
I’ve never had a PC power supply, monitor, tv etc die from this dirty utility’s power, but I’ve had a few UPS die and lots and lots of LEDs…the leds mostly looked like something was burned.
It’s not just me either, nearly any given LED on amazon etc has reviewers saying they die fast…
I have had decent luck and my power isnt all bad but I bought these expensive GU10 philips bulbs a when they were like $29/ea for a hard to reach fixture. A few died after 2.5 years and philips asked me a few questions via email. I scanned my receipt/UPC which I kept 1 of for each of the 5 I bought and they cut me a check for full retail I paid almost 3 years prior. I ended up replacing all 5 in that fixture for way less than the check they sent me. Felt pretty good!
It’s not just me either, nearly any given LED on amazon etc has reviewers saying they die fast…
I would be a bit careful rushing to conclusions. Many LED bulbs are not built to and are not rated for enclosed fixtures mostly due to the heat dissapation issues.I even have several use cases for LED lamps in enclosed fixtures. There’s not much I can do about that other then running the lamps for short spurts and hope for the best.
Another instance, is people trying to get unreasonable amounts of light from older fixtures by spec’ing the highest output lamps they can get their hands on, “after all these fixtures were rated for 60 watt incandescent, what harm will it do if I use 60 watts of LED per lampholder?” Except that the heat dissapation for LEDs means that higher output lamps will end up cooking themselves alive. I had a friend do just this with a with one of those quad ceiling lamps. They used x4 1600 lumen 5000K A19s, and you could smell the electronics burning. This is totally discounting the ugly glare that a whopping 6400 lumens of LED put out.
It’s not just me either, nearly any given LED on amazon etc has reviewers saying they die fast…
I would be a bit careful rushing to conclusions. Many LED bulbs are not built to and are not rated for enclosed fixtures mostly due to the heat dissapation issues.I even have several use cases for LED lamps in enclosed fixtures. There’s not much I can do about that other then running the lamps for short spurts and hope for the best.
Another instance, is people trying to get unreasonable amounts of light from older fixtures by spec’ing the highest output lamps they can get their hands on, “after all these fixtures were rated for 60 watt incandescent, what harm will it do if I use 60 watts of LED per lampholder?” Except that the heat dissapation for LEDs means that higher output lamps will end up cooking themselves alive. I had a friend do just this with a with one of those quad ceiling lamps. They used x4 1600 lumen 5000K A19s, and you could smell the electronics burning. This is totally discounting the ugly glare that a whopping 6400 lumens of LED put out.
I’m not, and you’re wrong. These mainstream lights are cheap crap, period.
#2: none of my lights were ever enclosed, not even partially.
If you read sunlike’s blog, all the US lights I took apart had 105C crap brand capacitors…and insufficient heatsinking which seemed like some kind of ceramic rather than aluminum. Chinese ones were 85C only… EDIT: and it sounds like your friend experienced the “joys” of Hyperikon or some noname china brand with those burnouts… glare is a non issue it depends though…
—
I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:
Fireflies NOV-MU 21 4500k E21A (preorder)
Fireflies ROT66 219B SW45 D220
Fireflies E07 219B SW45
Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)
Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)
Many people wanting rosy tints for flashlights (although many don’t for ultimate sunlight/color accuracy) leads them to the 219B as it’s the only high CRI flashlight-sized emitter that offers it. Many here are aware the Optisolis, several brands of COBs and other products still blow them away in CRI/R9/R12/etc.
Problem is solved with tint mixing so kind of a moot point. Leave 219B behind already. There is plenty of space and diffusion in a lightbulb to not have to consider 219B, ever.
Alright, I’m good with that.
Samsung 30Q vs Nickel Strip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ys5wwUJOz58
My Spectrometer Tests:
SST-20 4000K
219b R9080 4000K
COBs_5700K_CRI95+
E21A R9080 5000K
D-C-Fix Diffuser Film
I can confirm the 1600 lumen Hyperikons fry themselves after a few months. I have heard the 800s do not but they should also be a lot less hot. You literally can’t touch them they are so hot.
Literally no one is selling better emitters in good lights, like the FF E07…we are stuck with 219b until China offers better in mass production…I would kill for Optisolis in my lights
Only thing that comes close to 219B SW45 in products you can actually obtain is the SST20 with its crappy 3800k greenish CCT.
I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:
Fireflies NOV-MU 21 4500k E21A (preorder)
Fireflies ROT66 219B SW45 D220
Fireflies E07 219B SW45
Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)
Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)
Jaxman E2L 219c 4000k
Klarus Mi7
Varmint removal (throw):
Convoy M21A C8 ver SST20 4000k (5a)
Convoy S2+ SST20 4000k (3200ma)
Lumintop ODL20C
CRI test dump https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1kcl_uOhgfpR4RSsa8F4b-UUVP9mkL6Cr...
That depends on the bin you get. Some manufacturers have been better then others green wise with better bins. The 4000K and 3500K 219B also biase pretty warm if I remember to. I’d kill for some E21A multi-emitter lights. Optisolis is pretty good, but it’s limited current wise, and the E21A has good tint and better CCT flexibility.
Anybody have any experience with Ketra’s A20 and PAR36 bulbs? They have a fully-adjustable CCT from 1400k to 10000k @ >90 CRI. CCT is maintained within one Macadam ellipse (centered on the black body locus?) as LEDs age using a control loop that monitors output.
https://www.ketra.com/led-lighting-products/lamps/a20
High CRI RA95 E27 7W COB LED Bulb
I picked up 3 of the 5000K versions, really nice tint and color rendition.
I forgot to mention California’s title 24 lighting requirement makes finding cheap good lights easier. It requires min 80 r9 but the cheap ones like Phillips are usually max 3000k. Took like 2 years for that law to dent the scammy high cri market……of course lobbyists complained…
I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:
Fireflies NOV-MU 21 4500k E21A (preorder)
Fireflies ROT66 219B SW45 D220
Fireflies E07 219B SW45
Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)
Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)
Jaxman E2L 219c 4000k
Klarus Mi7
Varmint removal (throw):
Convoy M21A C8 ver SST20 4000k (5a)
Convoy S2+ SST20 4000k (3200ma)
Lumintop ODL20C
CRI test dump https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1kcl_uOhgfpR4RSsa8F4b-UUVP9mkL6Cr...
That’s strict. I like it
Samsung 30Q vs Nickel Strip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ys5wwUJOz58
My Spectrometer Tests:
SST-20 4000K
219b R9080 4000K
COBs_5700K_CRI95+
E21A R9080 5000K
D-C-Fix Diffuser Film
I now have a table of light bulbs with the corresponding CRI Grade. I have a lot of data from my spectrometer, but so far the only LED technology to earn an A is the SunLike! Please note the bulbs with a * were not tested by me (like the SunLike).
Help me add to the table by sending me links to high CRI bulbs!
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69967
Samsung 30Q vs Nickel Strip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ys5wwUJOz58
My Spectrometer Tests:
SST-20 4000K
219b R9080 4000K
COBs_5700K_CRI95+
E21A R9080 5000K
D-C-Fix Diffuser Film
I discovered Sylvania A19 LED bulbs, 3000K. $1.50 at dollar store. They look great, no PWM, and not even warm to the touch.
They seem to have a CRI of 80 and nothing more published. That’s a bad sign.
Samsung 30Q vs Nickel Strip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ys5wwUJOz58
My Spectrometer Tests:
SST-20 4000K
219b R9080 4000K
COBs_5700K_CRI95+
E21A R9080 5000K
D-C-Fix Diffuser Film
I really want to make a batch of optisolis bulbs (spot type 45deg) for all around my house. 120VAC
What bulb can fit the nichia optisolis VS35SP36?
What is the general maximum wattage a standard bulb can withstand from LEDs also accounting for the driver?
The best case scenario is if the bulb already outputs at 1S or 3S which the VS35SP36 can change to. And then, I just pull out the original LEDs and place the mcpcb on top.
I have never modded a bulb before so I assume they glue them very well for safety. I don’t mind cutting and regluing or things similar to this.
Yea this seems like a good option to me too. But I haven’t sacrificed one of everything yet to find a good host.
Samsung 30Q vs Nickel Strip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ys5wwUJOz58
My Spectrometer Tests:
SST-20 4000K
219b R9080 4000K
COBs_5700K_CRI95+
E21A R9080 5000K
D-C-Fix Diffuser Film
If you’re talking a standard, smooth a19 or a21 shape with a plastic or glass cover then likely 7-10 watts max, about like a flashlight. Older more expensive wavy bases can probably dissipate more heat, but you don’t see those any more. Those big corn shape ones might do a little more but since it’s ultimately going to sink at the base where your power circuitry is, I wouldn’t bet any money unless you’ve got a fan pointed at it. Power circuitry is where most of my lights have failed excluding some crappy chinese sticks (leds and pcb literally burned first on that)
I’m picking up this but don’t have any testing gear, but I can already predict the disappointment because I seriously doubt it can dissipate the heat… https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000232096487.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.3d...
On the other hand since it supports a wider power input maybe it will survive this crazy 125v “green” utility power that kills everything except incandescents around here…Landlord said all the common LED makers told him they will not warranty unless he installed power conditioning…
I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:
Fireflies NOV-MU 21 4500k E21A (preorder)
Fireflies ROT66 219B SW45 D220
Fireflies E07 219B SW45
Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)
Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)
Jaxman E2L 219c 4000k
Klarus Mi7
Varmint removal (throw):
Convoy M21A C8 ver SST20 4000k (5a)
Convoy S2+ SST20 4000k (3200ma)
Lumintop ODL20C
CRI test dump https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1kcl_uOhgfpR4RSsa8F4b-UUVP9mkL6Cr...
I've taken the opportunity of some 11.11 free time to update and migrate our original old "High CRI table".
It is now a Google Doc, easily readable and shareable online.
It contains all the numbers and info we have shared here so far, including direct links to the various tests for references. Doing that I realised there was an error with the "Qf" formula, now corrected. Hope you all will enjoy it, and that it will ease readability.
As always, please feel free to make suggestions or corrections.
I've updated it to be up to date of this topic, feel also free to point me any missing info.
Rise and Shine my precious...
May I suggest that instead of having two topics on BLF for a common subject, we unit our energy and efforts towards one community goal? As proposed and already started in this topic, I'm pleased to discuss formula/scale, bulbs, or any other matter.
Rise and Shine my precious...
plastic body
will go to trash after some months
BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews
Yeah… the only leds that will last long will have the fancy finned aluminum heatsink like Sunlike… the high price might make you balk but considering the price of a heatsink like that + the leds you suddenly aren’t getting such a bad deal.
I have an itching suspicion it’s not worth using anything other than Sunlike even ignoring that crazy high cri unless you’re using disposable $2- bulbs…my halogen bulbs always outlast led and power is cheap here >_<
I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:
Fireflies NOV-MU 21 4500k E21A (preorder)
Fireflies ROT66 219B SW45 D220
Fireflies E07 219B SW45
Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)
Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)
Jaxman E2L 219c 4000k
Klarus Mi7
Varmint removal (throw):
Convoy M21A C8 ver SST20 4000k (5a)
Convoy S2+ SST20 4000k (3200ma)
Lumintop ODL20C
CRI test dump https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1kcl_uOhgfpR4RSsa8F4b-UUVP9mkL6Cr...
In Overview - Specifications it says 7. Material: Aluminum Case. In the Specifications tab: Body Material: Aluminum. I'm not sure about the validity of the overview data but the specifications pretty much nails it down with regards to filing a dispute.
So, if the bulbs are @#$% VaKo will easily get his money back.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
it is not sarcasm?
p.s. halogen bulbs from GE works exactly 2000 hours
BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews
Alas no, it is aluminium, and gets quite warm after extended use. It also stops being warm fairly quickly after you turn it off leading one to assume it is indeed doing heatsinky things.
if you meant my halogen comment no, all the LEDs I’ve had died pretty fast and with little use (almost all 1600 lumen), the power here fluctuates from 115-125v. can your bulbs tolerate the higher voltage spikes from hydro/wind power? Cree, phillips, etc told landlord to install power conditioning…
I’ve never had a PC power supply, monitor, tv etc die from this dirty utility’s power, but I’ve had a few UPS die and lots and lots of LEDs…the leds mostly looked like something was burned.
It’s not just me either, nearly any given LED on amazon etc has reviewers saying they die fast…
I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:
Fireflies NOV-MU 21 4500k E21A (preorder)
Fireflies ROT66 219B SW45 D220
Fireflies E07 219B SW45
Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)
Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)
Jaxman E2L 219c 4000k
Klarus Mi7
Varmint removal (throw):
Convoy M21A C8 ver SST20 4000k (5a)
Convoy S2+ SST20 4000k (3200ma)
Lumintop ODL20C
CRI test dump https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1kcl_uOhgfpR4RSsa8F4b-UUVP9mkL6Cr...
led drivers, what I use, works with 85-277v. For 110v I use twice bigger reusable fuse.
Just try to read (with translator) this why ordinary led bulbs die so fast
BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews
I have had decent luck and my power isnt all bad but I bought these expensive GU10 philips bulbs a when they were like $29/ea for a hard to reach fixture. A few died after 2.5 years and philips asked me a few questions via email. I scanned my receipt/UPC which I kept 1 of for each of the 5 I bought and they cut me a check for full retail I paid almost 3 years prior. I ended up replacing all 5 in that fixture for way less than the check they sent me. Felt pretty good!
Do you ship to the US?
I’m not, and you’re wrong. These mainstream lights are cheap crap, period.
#1: fixtures are not rated for heat dissipation, but fire prevention. You know how hot incandescents get, right? RIGHT? https://www.waveformlighting.com/home-residential/can-you-install-an-led...
#2: none of my lights were ever enclosed, not even partially.
If you read sunlike’s blog, all the US lights I took apart had 105C crap brand capacitors…and insufficient heatsinking which seemed like some kind of ceramic rather than aluminum. Chinese ones were 85C only…
EDIT: and it sounds like your friend experienced the “joys” of Hyperikon or some noname china brand with those burnouts… glare is a non issue it depends though…
I only like high CRI, I have or have had in order of pref:
Fireflies NOV-MU 21 4500k E21A (preorder)
Fireflies ROT66 219B SW45 D220
Fireflies E07 219B SW45
Emisar D4 SST20 4000k frosted lens (the lack of some preset levels kinda makes me want to rate it lower though...)
Jaxman E2L 219c 5700k (indoor use only due to color temp)
Jaxman E2L 219c 4000k
Klarus Mi7
Varmint removal (throw):
Convoy M21A C8 ver SST20 4000k (5a)
Convoy S2+ SST20 4000k (3200ma)
Lumintop ODL20C
CRI test dump https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1kcl_uOhgfpR4RSsa8F4b-UUVP9mkL6Cr...
I posted all of my LED strips/bulbs test results in this thread. They are mostly LED strips.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/70010
WorldWide (5$), except Zimbabwe (Rhodesia)
BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews
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