Put your camera to manual mode, set ISO from auto to let's say 400 (or less), set your aperture to a high f value (if you are shooting high mode/bright beams), and then you need to adjust the exposure time accordingly (you need to play a bit with this) so that the end result is close to what you see in real in the dark... of course keep all the camera values the same for all the different modes & flashlights. Oh and set the white balance to manual also, try daylight to see if the colour of the beam is similar to what you see.
Manual mode..ok
ISO, say about 200
F value??? F3.5 or F5.6?? which is the highest f value?
Thanks much...
High f value = small aperture (small hole, a bit confusing, lets less light pass through). Highest value can be f36 or more.
When you have a lot of light you need a higher f. I would suggest you try an f8 to start with and see the results.
With manual mode you get to set everything in the camera, once you get the hang of it, it is not difficult and it is also fun. (Next "fun" level is to take photos in RAW format).
Thanks much, going to try that..Also, I am thinking about getting the F1.8 lens, which I think would make things a lot better too.
On the RAW, I tried that, got some super shots, then everything went south. Went back to jpeg... 
Going to take my time and try your steps. This thing got so many choices and options, it is information overload..
Thanks much again..
You can get lens even with f1.2, but it is an overkill usually (and very expensive). You should do a research before you buy, I am saying this because for example with Canons the 50mm f1.8 sucks a bit in terms of performance, so a good value/performer is the f1.4... I have no idea though about the Nikon lenses (not that you have to stick with the same brand).
As for the RAW... what I do is I shoot in both modes (camera takes a jpeg and a raw). Usually outdoors in a sunny day I don't need to play with the raw file. But there are other times that I open the raw file in photoshop and... you just can do magical stuff with it. A RAW file is unprocessed data from the sensor. So you have total control of exposure, white balance, colour etc, AFTER you take the photo... ;)
Any of these available in 3 mode (Keygos or other clones)? Disco modes are a deal breaker for me.
They all 5 mode I am sure..
Mine come today, here my quick test.
I remove +B spring, soldering with lead.
Full charge Trustfire 5000mA protected
@ 4.2V Hi 5.5A WTF
@ 4.08V Hi 5.3A
Keygos 26650mA look like It has PCB , not sure that is PCB protected.
Full charge 4.2V discharge @1A to 3V = 2951mA
The Uniquefire 2180 that I bought has 3 modes, but only Hi-Lo-Disco. And because it came with a battery and charger it was $20 more. Given a choice, I think I would rather have the 5 modes so that I'd have a medium mode and just click through the disco modes when I had to go back to hi. But, yes, my first choice would be either a 3 or 5 mode with NO disco, only varying outputs.
Problem... Keygos M10 has 20mm driver.
So where can I find 20mm AMC7135 driver? Or how can I fix 17mm driver?
Why do you need an amc7135 driver? Im sure the one it has puts more than 3A to the led.
I will come back with tests soon.
the pill is ridiculously small though..
The driver is 20mm as nekdo12 said. The contact area is 6mm around the pill.
The driver uses this controller and this mosfet. It doesnt run too hot.
Some decent wiring is used to the led.
Test with KK ICR @ 4.08v
HIGH: KK -> 3.495A -> driver -> 3.329A -> LED
-theo_mich
Better regulation, no strobe.
Nobody knows?
Here's an example of how I mounted a 17mm driver to a 26mm (I think) heatsink module. This is the 1.4A Nanjg AMC7135 driver.
It's messy, but works. I had a heck of a time soldering to that brass module! I used pieces of thin copper (cut off an old CPU heatsink) attached to the driver at opposite ends and soldered to the heatsink module. This particular module was filled with pieces of 4 AWG bare copper wire and solder to give the heatsink more mass (Chicago X's idea). I then added Fujik thermal compound between the driver and heatsink. If I could do it for a 26mm hole, you could do it for a 20mm one. probably just solder the edge of the driver to one side and use one piece of copper to bridge the other side (just be careful not to short anything).
-Garry
P.S. This is from my custom 3C Maglite which I should be posting a build post for eventually.
I've just changed a driver to 7135 V2 and XM-L U2.
I used old P6 brass pill that I did a few of my flashlights.
Now waiting for soldering and dry grease.
Old star XM-L with less grease.
Cut brass pill.
Waiting for soldering.
I just got mine today. It really came up in perfect condition. Well lubed, flawlessly working, well centered and throwy. I only had an old 18650 with me. It had an adapter with it and worked perfectly with a 18650. I found this really bright and as throwy as a Jetbeam BC40. Tailstands perfectly.
Thank you very much for the heads up. I'm glad I haven't paid for a Shadow J series.
Kokopelli, did you buy the M10 or tha M10a?
I am with you on the praise of the Keygos M10. I have two of them, and they perform flawlessly. In addition, they look good too. I am on the verge of getting a 3rd one. I used them on my bicycles. I have a pair of them on the bike I am on today. Also, I have a 18650 light on my helmet. Thinking about replacing it with another Keygos M10.
Just like you, I have been looking at the PRICES of the competing lights. This light is going for $23 with free shipping. IMO, one of the best deals out there in Flashligt Land!!
IMO again, this light is so good, it would still be a good deal at TWICE THE PRICE!!
I think I mentioned this before. They are all the same. I think they might put the "a" on there when they sell it with battery and charger.. Correct me if I am wrong.. But, I only see the specs for one Keygos M10..