FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Ok. I got frustrated and mad which was a good thing I guess and put it on a vice. It works for now but I still get some clicks that do nothing. Better than nothing I guess. Thanks for all the help! Hopefully I didn’t make it permanently an 18350.

Edit: It doesn’t work again :person_facepalming:. After fixing it I laid it on my table. Wanted to play around with it so I picked it up and it doesn’t work anymore.

Unfortunately I can’t take pictures until end of the next week. I actually remember having to tighten the whole light quite a lot to ensure it register every click.
Ill try to measure my 18350 inner tube as well.

Checked the switch on my defective FW3T. This is the one with the unreliable switch.

The switch is super-simple. Literally just a piece of spring steel on top of a PCB. The steel is held on with kapton tape. I removed the tape and cleaned underneath with deoxit. Then replaced the tape with fresh tape.

Now the switch works, but the light still does not when I use the black inner tube that came with it. For some reason the tube just isn’t long enough. Tubes from other FW3 lights work just fine, but the one that came with it is just too short to make contact.

To fix, I think I’d need to pull out the driver and/or tailcap and add a bit of extra solder along the contact ring for the inner tube.

I wonder where the difference in tubes lies… If you stood the working one next to then non-working one….

IMO, the FW3A is a nice light (though I don’t use mine), but the manufacturing tolerances are too tight for inexpensive production. I know it was designed to be something unique, but a more simple design, perhaps with a side switch or a mechanical tail switch, would have resulted in less issues.

The FW3A is kind of like a cheap HDS light. I know the HDS is way over-priced, but perhaps the FW3A is a bit under-priced.

Well, they did make a side switch version. It’s not as unique, though

I had one of my FW3A powder coated. sort of…
I guess the first one went bad, after a couple tries… the guy replaced the light and powder coated the body and tail cap….
He assembled it and sent it back.looks kinda cool.but it Doesnt work
I am still trying to figure out where it all goes south…The light engine may be faulty.I can , by swapping things around, and omitting the clip, get the light to work in a basic fashion.
it turns on, ramps about half way…will not go turbo with a double click. Will not show battery with triple click…
it’s all wonky. a failed experiment I am afraid.

The inner black tube, I have two now, and they are markedly different….no idea if the paint is screwing up continuity or what
I cant screw the brass retaining ring into the painted tailcap, overspray?
It lights with both tail caps, with no clip… but no turbo or other multi button commands… odd

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gP8WMZWp7Vl2ndVzUO6lkfeqhnAw1m1V

I will probably box it up and give it to Dale or something

Sounds like your in muggle mode or basic mode. Try 6 fast clicks from off.

Didn’t really think of that…
If that’s it, it’d be nice to get it running with the clip on…

The clip just needs room. As long as it doesn’t prevent the tail cap from fully screwing down (with head loose, then tighten head fully), it should not make a difference in functionality. Sometimes you have to tighten pretty hard.

Derp
You were spot on. I didnt think a ‘new’ light would be in muggle. The clip is in the way. I may try to clean that area out on the lathe tomorrow to remove any PC that got in that area…
But, yea its nice that it works.
If only it was 100% orange. The part he dd looks great !

I agree I think the inner tube really is just too short. I tried to stick a piece of aluminum foil at the tail cap end and tied to check for continuity as JasonWW suggested and it does beep.

Would adding solder cause an issue with friction against the inner tube when screwing it in? Sorry not all that familiar with solder.

FW3A V2 Titanium proto (yes I realize it should be FW3T V2 but it’s lumintops naming scheme they went with)



Wow. Any plans to do this with the FW1A?

I have absolutely no clue, the pics were posted on their FB. I have zero inside info nor any direct communication with them in any way. Just sharing the photos here.

It seems they’ve come up with a new way to do the tail cap!

It depends on how you do it. It should be okay as long as the solder is fairly flat and thin.

Hmmm, seems like a rotary switch in the tail. If not, it’s a lot of extra work just for cosmetics. I’m not even sure that’s related to the FW3A. It looks like another brand entirely.

If you look close you can see the wider part that is the tail cap on the v1 is now all one piece with the body tube. What you’re calling a “rotary switch” is just the retainer for the tail parts (with some added flair) .
I think this is a good update that should help to reduce some of the tail cap issues.

Having said that, I 100% agree this is a different light and should be named something else, afterall FW3A = Fritz Works and this is no longer his design…

As mentioned, I got the pics and caption directly from lumintops Facebook, posted about 12am EST 11/18/19

You say that as if it means something. Not every picture they post on there means it’s their own design or brand. They would need to say “New prototype, what do you think?” Or something that confirms it’s from them. I try not to jump to conclusions.

Why are you so argumentative all the time man?