I agree I think the inner tube really is just too short. I tried to stick a piece of aluminum foil at the tail cap end and tied to check for continuity as JasonWW suggested and it does beep.
Would adding solder cause an issue with friction against the inner tube when screwing it in? Sorry not all that familiar with solder.
FW3A V2 Titanium proto (yes I realize it should be FW3T V2 but it’s lumintops naming scheme they went with)
Wow. Any plans to do this with the FW1A?
I have absolutely no clue, the pics were posted on their FB. I have zero inside info nor any direct communication with them in any way. Just sharing the photos here.
It seems they’ve come up with a new way to do the tail cap!
It depends on how you do it. It should be okay as long as the solder is fairly flat and thin.
Hmmm, seems like a rotary switch in the tail. If not, it’s a lot of extra work just for cosmetics. I’m not even sure that’s related to the FW3A. It looks like another brand entirely.
If you look close you can see the wider part that is the tail cap on the v1 is now all one piece with the body tube. What you’re calling a “rotary switch” is just the retainer for the tail parts (with some added flair) .
I think this is a good update that should help to reduce some of the tail cap issues.
Having said that, I 100% agree this is a different light and should be named something else, afterall FW3A = Fritz Works and this is no longer his design…
As mentioned, I got the pics and caption directly from lumintops Facebook, posted about 12am EST 11/18/19
You say that as if it means something. Not every picture they post on there means it’s their own design or brand. They would need to say “New prototype, what do you think?” Or something that confirms it’s from them. I try not to jump to conclusions.
Why are you so argumentative all the time man?
Me? I’m not argumentative at all.
Nice, they confirm it is their design. (I don’t do Facebook)
This is quite the radical change.
It’s ok. I like some parts but it seems too busy. Kinda ugly in some respects too.
I think the opposite , but that’s taste for you lol! I love it - trouble is every time I think, ‘oh, I’ll have that one’, they bring out another! I hope it’s a 21700 quad 
Maybe the ‘XXX’ around the front part is a bit yucky, better off with knurling.
Here’s another look at the F3Wa Titanium prototype: (this is not the final copy as of yet and subject to change without notice)
it looks cool that design but probably will cost an arm and leg…
Probably… And there goes a TLF / Budget LightForum design into an expensive light …
More than that…it won’t have a 18350 body 
Pity that tail wasn’t redesigned for manual lockout 
You can still do this, just use the head.
Keep in mind it’s a switch lockout, head and or tail, not a fully mechanical, no parasitic drain lockout.
The clips look happy
I’d like to run a lexel aux board but don’t have the know how / skill to reflash the driver so bypassing the driver is what I did. Unscrewing the head doesn’t cut power to the aux board until the springs lose contact with the battery.
Hence a tail lockout would’ve been preferable to me.
Unscrewing the tail does the same thing. Both head and tail use bare threads, no anodization.
Maybe it’s cheap enough to mail the driver to someone who can flash it?
You’d still have to take the battery out to stop all parasitic drain, though.