I reckon quite a bit of work went into it - I must admit I didn’t even look at the price lol!! Still, handmade work like that is worth paying for, that would have taken days to do, even weeks maybe - I’d rather that than 10% brighter and someone’s name scribbled on the outside.
No offence intended, just my take on it/preference.
Shame he’s not on here (maybe he is…)- that would defo win a prize in the ‘handmade light’ compo I think lol!
After seeing some of the more extensive mods some people are undertaking with the FW3A, I started to think about what might be possible… without going too far overboard. I wondered about the feasibility of an FW3A Lightsaber. Thoughts?
Of course, it’s a rough “fantasy” prototype (photo edit). I would make the front end flange much more subtle. You don’t want a big lip on the end catching on things.
Oh no xevious don’t show me that lol (I already have this on the way with the intention of it…one day) Lenovo Jedi saber
IF I get bored with it, that’s exactly whats happening These were quite pricey at first, but a metal saber for £29.99 is BEGGING to be modded! IF only I had the skillz!
I did hope I could tempt CRX into doing one - either he is and not letting on, or he’s not lol, I PRAY the first option! of course I’ll have to go to Scotland, track him down and have a duel for it! (to the death naturally) :cowboy_hat_face:
Oh and btw, that bottom one in your photo’s, if anyone will make me one I’ll literally remove a finger for it. Or maybe swap a one of my black series stormtooper helmets.
I reckon if you used the 21700 version (but use an 18650) you could make that centre bit on a lathe…. to get the depth of grooves.
‘This IS the flashlight I’ve been looking for - move along!’
^ Thanks — it’s actually quite feasible. I tried to make it based mostly on the FW3A with just some “accents.” You could mix/match parts from the raw aluminum & copper FW3A. The bezel is a separate part that could be easily turned on a lathe as a complete part, or stainless steel “rings” attached to an existing raw aluminum bezel. The body “fins” could be created a few different ways. I’d see a “sleeve” created that could slide down over the tube. With rubber backing it would have some cushioning for a snug fit. It’s all very, very doable.
One other thing I’d do is remove the clip and replace it with the steel ring being sold. Then just attach a triangular metal ring to it to simulate the one on the prop lightsaber.
Well, tomorrow in the post an engraver is arriving - I used to do engraving on military parts many years ago by hand (like hundreds of thousands of items) if I re-find my old skills, an all over engraved light may (BIG may) could be in the pipeline sometime! I have 2 x Utorch A6 clones to destroy practice on.
Well, it was just serial numbers - but that said it looks easy (or so I thought) but when it’s got to be done to a standard, and legible - doing it is another kettle of fish. Took me a good year to master just writing neatly really.
I am good at drawing so I’m hoping the 2 will meet in the middle somewhere! This inspired me to try - link
Thanks to all of you for figuring this out. I just tried the o-ring. It takes my favorite light up a notch or two. It is great now. I might experiment with some of the other suggestions also. The extra firmness is great as well as the additional loudness.
Thank you JaredM for figuring out this oring mod. I had intentions of using the FW3A as a work tool, and this was not happening with the hair trigger stock switch.