FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

[G0OSE]

@xevious

After seeing some of the more extensive mods some people are undertaking with the FW3A, I started to think about what might be possible… without going too far overboard. I wondered about the feasibility of an FW3A Lightsaber. Thoughts?

Of course, it’s a rough prototype. I would make the front end flange much more subtle. You don’t want a big lip on the end catching on things.

Oh no xevious don’t show me that lol (I already have this on the way with the intention of it…one day) Lenovo Jedi saber
IF I get bored with it, that’s exactly whats happening These were quite pricey at first, but a metal saber for £29.99 is BEGGING to be modded! IF only I had the skillz!

I did hope I could tempt CRX into doing one - either he is and not letting on, or he’s not lol, I PRAY the first option! of course I’ll have to go to Scotland, track him down and have a duel for it! (to the death naturally) :cowboy_hat_face:

Oh and btw, that bottom one in your photo’s, if anyone will make me one I’ll literally remove a finger for it. Or maybe swap a one of my black series stormtooper helmets.
I reckon if you used the 21700 version (but use an 18650) you could make that centre bit on a lathe…. to get the depth of grooves.
‘This IS the flashlight I’ve been looking for - move along!’

[xevious (Gary)]

^ Thanks — it’s actually quite feasible. I tried to make it based mostly on the FW3A with just some “accents.” You could mix/match parts from the raw aluminum & copper FW3A. The bezel is a separate part that could be easily turned on a lathe as a complete part, or stainless steel “rings” attached to an existing raw aluminum bezel. The body “fins” could be created a few different ways. I’d see a “sleeve” created that could slide down over the tube. With rubber backing it would have some cushioning for a snug fit. It’s all very, very doable.

One other thing I’d do is remove the clip and replace it with the steel ring being sold. Then just attach a triangular metal ring to it to simulate the one on the prop lightsaber.

[G0OSE]

@xevious

^ Thanks — it’s actually quite feasible. I tried to make it based mostly on the FW3A with just some “accents.” You could mix/match parts from the raw aluminum & copper FW3A. The bezel is a separate part that could be easily turned on a lathe as a complete part, or stainless steel “rings” attached to an existing raw aluminum bezel. The body “fins” could be created a few different ways. I’d see a “sleeve” created that could slide down over the tube. With rubber backing it would have some cushioning for a snug fit. It’s all very, very doable.

One other thing I’d do is remove the clip and replace it with the steel ring being sold. Then just attach a triangular metal ring to it to simulate the one on the prop lightsaber.

It has to be ally in the centre though - no compromise lol!

[pinkpanda3310 (Pinky)]

@G0OSE

…that would defo win a prize in the ‘handmade light’ compo I think lol!

Totally! I hope this gets the creative juices flowing for some….

Whilst I like different types of aesthetics I’ve never understood why big bulky skulls were a thing :question:

[G0OSE]

Well, tomorrow in the post an engraver is arriving - I used to do engraving on military parts many years ago by hand (like hundreds of thousands of items) if I re-find my old skills, an all over engraved light may (BIG may) could be in the pipeline sometime! I have 2 x Utorch A6 clones to destroy practice on.

[pinkpanda3310 (Pinky)]

I made another cap for the ti/cu and swapped the clips over. I’m liking the colour scheme on both of these now.

[xevious (Gary)]

@G0OSE

Well, tomorrow in the post an engraver is arriving - I used to do engraving on military parts many years ago by hand (like hundreds of thousands of items) if I re-find my old skills, an all over engraved light may (BIG may) could be in the pipeline sometime! I have 2 x Utorch A6 clones to destroy practice on.

Excellent! If you have photos of some of your earlier work that could be related to the kind you’re thinking of doing on flashlights, please post.

[G0OSE]

@xevious

@G0OSE

Well, tomorrow in the post an engraver is arriving - I used to do engraving on military parts many years ago by hand (like hundreds of thousands of items) if I re-find my old skills, an all over engraved light may (BIG may) could be in the pipeline sometime! I have 2 x Utorch A6 clones to destroy practice on.

Excellent! If you have photos of some of your earlier work that could be related to the kind you’re thinking of doing on flashlights, please post.

Well, it was just serial numbers - but that said it looks easy (or so I thought) but when it’s got to be done to a standard, and legible - doing it is another kettle of fish. Took me a good year to master just writing neatly really.
I am good at drawing so I’m hoping the 2 will meet in the middle somewhere! This inspired me to try - link

[cyclops]

@JaredM

@Gunga

Yes. I’ll do up a small post with a how to… check back later.

UPDATE

I’ve revisited the design for creating a nubbin’ replacement that is simpler and (hopefully) universal. I had gone through many trial and error iterations and just stopped once I found a working combination. Turns out only one part of that configuration is needed. That’s the o-ring. 1/16” nominal thickness a 3/16” ID. Industry size –008.

Just remove the nubbin’ and insert said o-ring into the nubbin’ cavity of the switch boot. Carefully reassemble tailcap following guidelines mentioned in multiple fw3a threads. Enjoy the switch actuation that should have always been.

I did a quick search and they can be found on eBay for $2.50 per 10 shipped to US. Hardware or automotive stores will likely have something suitable as well.

I definitely need this! Hate to lockout every-time especially when mine is 1st gen with no dual brightness in lockout mode.

[nobody]

@JaredM

I’m glad others are finding this helpful! For me, if it weren’t for figuring out a solution to the accidental activation, I would have gave up carrying the fw3a as my edc. It should be noted that I have very large hands and strong fingers. I often don’t keep that in consideration. The 3/16" o-ring w/o a center spacer is “stiff” in my book. For others, it may be unbearably so. Both of you have built upon the concept and adapted it to your taste, so good work to y’all as well. I’m happy there is a tune-able and simple solution to a problem that can be a deal breaker to an otherwise great design. As for the noise level of the switch, I’ve had very mixed - almost random - results during experimentation. The smallest tweak sometimes will take it from nearly silent to very loud. :question:

Thanks to all of you for figuring this out. I just tried the o-ring. It takes my favorite light up a notch or two. It is great now. I might experiment with some of the other suggestions also. The extra firmness is great as well as the additional loudness.

[xevious (Gary)]

@G0OSE

Well, it was just serial numbers - but that said it looks easy (or so I thought) but when it’s got to be done to a standard, and legible - doing it is another kettle of fish. Took me a good year to master just writing neatly really.
I am good at drawing so I’m hoping the 2 will meet in the middle somewhere! This inspired me to try - link

Definitely amazing work on that Panerai. :+1:

[trailhunter]

@JaredM

@Gunga

Yes. I’ll do up a small post with a how to… check back later.

UPDATE

I’ve revisited the design for creating a nubbin’ replacement that is simpler and (hopefully) universal. I had gone through many trial and error iterations and just stopped once I found a working combination. Turns out only one part of that configuration is needed. That’s the o-ring. 1/16” nominal thickness a 3/16” ID. Industry size –008.

Just remove the nubbin’ and insert said o-ring into the nubbin’ cavity of the switch boot. Carefully reassemble tailcap following guidelines mentioned in multiple fw3a threads. Enjoy the switch actuation that should have always been.

I did a quick search and they can be found on eBay for $2.50 per 10 shipped to US. Hardware or automotive stores will likely have something suitable as well.

Link?

[JaredM]

For the o-rings?

[trailhunter]

@JaredM

For the o-rings?

Yeah, I see 008 but I seen various sizes, just want to make sure i (we) get the right ones

[jfg]

National Nitrile Rubber (NBR) O-Ring 008PKG | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Thank you JaredM for figuring out this oring mod. I had intentions of using the FW3A as a work tool, and this was not happening with the hair trigger stock switch.

[JaredM]

008 O-ring. 3/16" ID x 5/16" OD x 1/16" thick. Buna-70. Quan 10. | eBay

[Scallywag]

@JaredM

@Gunga

Yes. I’ll do up a small post with a how to… check back later.

UPDATE

I’ve revisited the design for creating a nubbin’ replacement that is simpler and (hopefully) universal. I had gone through many trial and error iterations and just stopped once I found a working combination. Turns out only one part of that configuration is needed. That’s the o-ring. 1/16” nominal thickness a 3/16” ID. Industry size –008.

Just remove the nubbin’ and insert said o-ring into the nubbin’ cavity of the switch boot. Carefully reassemble tailcap following guidelines mentioned in multiple fw3a threads. Enjoy the switch actuation that should have always been.

I did a quick search and they can be found on eBay for $2.50 per 10 shipped to US. Hardware or automotive stores will likely have something suitable as well.

I just found this. Thank you. This is a lot better.

[cabfrank]

I’m definitely going to try this. Thanks for the idea.

[ttylamg]

alright I am back… finally.

Fw3a TIR

BTW, anyone noticed that if you unscrew the body of fw3a it’ll start to light up and ramp up? is there a short some where on mine, or is this expected?

[MascaratumB]

It seems that there is some extra pressure somewhere in the switch, or some short if it starts to ramp by itself.
Go back to the tailcap and re-check it, otherwise it may turn ON accidentally and…you know that it will burn something!