[M4D deal] Nightwatch NI40 with Luminus SBT90 Gen2 interest list OPEN

In my opinion there is a defect in the switch design whether you trim the rubber or not. I pressed the switch button without the rubber and same affect. The switch needs to be replaced or maybe the driver.

That makes sense to me. Mine should be here in a week or two. Just shipped 3 days ago.I wish I ordered a week later I would have cancelled it!

I want to know if any of the people who have this light have a switch/light that works as it should. I have not heard of any reports that they do not have this problem. It appears, if indeed a defect, that all the lights will have this issue. I hope not, if that is the case it will be interesting to see how this is handled.

do you have the problem only with the sbt90 or with the other versions too?

Neal can be reached most time by Facebook

Just so I understand, this light has a clicky switch and not an e-switch, so am I correct in assuming that turbo should be a double half press and not a double press? Is that what everyone is doing and still getting inconsistent results?

Anyone know what switch it is? If it is a common Omten 1288, the over 20 amps from the SBT90 may be a challenge for it. The bigger Omten or a Kan88 should handle it well.

It does click if pressed all the way. But I get better results toggling between the levels as well as getting turbo by pressing sort of half way or 2/3rds of the way without the audible clicks and most times I done even get that turbo most of the time.
Also turbo never comes on from the off position. The only luck I get is when I turn it on first then do double half press without the actual clicks .
Annoying as hell

Martin - not sure but doubt anyone here has other models - I wouldn't buy any other model, it's the SBT90.2 that makes this light. I feel pretty much all tail power switch lights are obsolete with limited UI capability.

Most likely they upgraded the switch to one that can handle the higher amps of the SBT90.2 and didn't make the proper fine adjustments to handle the size difference.

Does turbo activate Every time when you do Two half presses and when the light is on?

,Thanks

I’ve had my light for two weeks now, and my Golisi arrived last night. I cant tell much difference if any between the GA18650 and the Golisi, but I’ve not been able to run them side by side, only a minute apart after switching batteries…. so it’s really hard to discern with the delay and trying to recall exact brightness. My second light hasn’t shipped yet to my knowledge. Once I get it, I can run both battery configurations side by side to have a better idea of any differences.

I don’t believe my light has a switch issue as you all are discussing… but i kind of glanced / skimmed the comments so maybe I missed something.

The button is like a Nitecore MH20/GT with the half press vs full click. The full click is extremely responsive / audible. In other words, you KNOW when you pressed it. I haven’t looked at the UI to see if mine works as depicted, as far as my experience goes, it has 4 modes and a single half press rotates through them. Low, medium, high, turbo, repeat.

It seems I can go from low to turbo with a double half press, just like the Nitecore MH20. I thought it was supposed to be this way?

Edit: just went on NealsGadgets website and saw that it’s M, L, M, H, with double click to turbo… now I’m second guessing myself hahaha I’ll play with it when I get home tonight, don’t have the light on me for now.

Xenovora

Not every time. And from lowest level seems to activate more often but this I’m not sure of. It’s almost like you need to be a surgeon to know exactly how much force to apply for the half presses from on to get the turbo. No not every time, but I think alsways when the light is on. I will experiment more if I can turn it on from off but I don’t think so. Actually the strobe is also not working so well but it works better than turbo. It’s easier to get stroblenwith the triple click then turbo. And sometimes you think you are gonna get strobe and suddenly turbo comes on. Also touch to figure this all out as sometimes hard to discern turbo from the high mode when you compare to the lowest modes

Try using a thick piece of wire from battery (-) to the flashlight body to go thru the modes, should rule out the switch and isolate the problem, tail cap or driver…

Yes the 4 modes are done by either doing half presses of the buttton or by sound a series of 2 full clicks of the button. They go progressively low - medium 1 a medium 2 ( brighter) - high. So when I’m in the lowest mode and I try to double - half- press to get the turbo It’s hard to tell I am now in turbo or in medium mode because I half presses twice.
Right now I’m trying and can’t get in turbo at all, and the button presses are pretty hard so your fingers get tired of trying.

I might be going crazy or the battery may be going down but I’m beginning to suspect that the high mode is the same as turbo mode, which would be disappointing but more understandable, will replace the batteries and do more testing with the lux meter tonight

It is very unlikely you will notice the difference by eye, especially when your turning it on/off and changing batteries. If the lights are measured, then you will see the difference on paper.

I could not notice the difference b/w Vapcell 5500 and Golisi either in another light with 4000L output.If the difference is around 1000L like my other light, you may notice using Two lights IF you can get them on Turbo!

It is just a Flashaholics tendency to want MORE[The disease of more!],even if the eye can not pick it up. :smiley:

An e-switch solves all these power switch problems so easily . For me, this stock driver has to go... Oh boy.

To whom it has not yet been sent, it is necessary to write so that they send the flashlight with the corrected switch, otherwise it is necessary to refuse the purchase and return the money for the flashlight. Again, we probably need to wait 1 month until they fix it … :person_facepalming:

Ok so after some more trying belownis the best way to try to access the turbo.
First you do a full click to access the lowest mode or whatever the last memorized mode it was in
Then you do 2 half pushes ( no clicks) to access turbo. I think the trick is they have to be VERY fast - right next to each other. Older people will have issues doing such fast half-pushes one after the other . In other words a super fast double click ( double push)without the actual click.

I believe this only works from the on position. ( when the light is already on)

Yes you are spot on. This is how my sample is. There is nothing wrong with my switches. I have one sbt 90, XHP50.2, and flat white versions of this light. I have a total of 5 pieces of this light. The double half press will get you to turbo every time. It’s just hard to tell with our eyes. But I have a light meter, so I can confirm. But what I can tell you guys is the driver is CRAP. The memory is all whacked out. Sometimes it will remember the last mode, other times, it will go to next mode or previous mode. This is irritating. This defect goes for 5 samples. I went ahead and changed out the driver to the flat whites to make it single mode only. Sky Lumen did this mod. Dunno what he did or what driver he used.

I have no problem to activate turbo, however I agree that it can be hard when, for example, hands are cold. When the switch is released, there’s small pause before the light comes on. If you manage to half click in that time window, you’re in turbo mode.

I generally prefer lights without memory (starting on lowest mode) anyways. Is it at all possible to just disable the memory, perhaps at a hardware level?

Got mine today…

Spaced the battery tube out with 2 copper sealing rings, cleaned all contacts with NO-OX, and on a 30T off the charger I got just over 25amps at the hit and 4710lms at turn on and dropping steadily… the tail cap and driver springs have some resistance they get a little warm around 30 seconds so does the light. The driver is a 3 FET with R010 resistor DD driver and the FET’s are scratched out but they look to be the SIR 404/800/Infineon style/type of FET.

Maybe try some Blue Gen 3 springs or just go for the 18awg bypass’s on the springs when I get the chance maybe this weekend…