FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

G0OSE · November 19, 2019, 11:39pm

Well, tomorrow in the post an engraver is arriving - I used to do engraving on military parts many years ago by hand (like hundreds of thousands of items) if I re-find my old skills, an all over engraved light may (BIG may) could be in the pipeline sometime! I have 2 x Utorch A6 clones to ~~destroy~~ practice on.

pinkpanda3310 · November 20, 2019, 1:29pm

I made another cap for the ti/cu and swapped the clips over. I’m liking the colour scheme on both of these now.

xevious · November 20, 2019, 3:29pm

Excellent! If you have photos of some of your earlier work that could be related to the kind you’re thinking of doing on flashlights, please post.

G0OSE · November 20, 2019, 3:50pm

Well, it was just serial numbers - but that said it looks easy (or so I thought) but when it’s got to be done to a standard, and legible - doing it is another kettle of fish. Took me a good year to master just writing neatly really.
I am good at drawing so I’m hoping the 2 will meet in the middle somewhere! This inspired me to try - link

cyclops · November 20, 2019, 4:39pm

JaredM:

@Gunga

Yes. I’ll do up a small post with a how to… check back later.

UPDATE

I’ve revisited the design for creating a nubbin’ replacement that is simpler and (hopefully) universal. I had gone through many trial and error iterations and just stopped once I found a working combination. Turns out only one part of that configuration is needed. That’s the o-ring. 1/16” nominal thickness a 3/16” ID. Industry size –008.

Just remove the nubbin’ and insert said o-ring into the nubbin’ cavity of the switch boot. Carefully reassemble tailcap following guidelines mentioned in multiple fw3a threads. Enjoy the switch actuation that should have always been.

I did a quick search and they can be found on eBay for $2.50 per 10 shipped to US. Hardware or automotive stores will likely have something suitable as well.

I definitely need this! Hate to lockout every-time especially when mine is 1st gen with no dual brightness in lockout mode.

nobody · November 21, 2019, 2:14am

JaredM:

I’m glad others are finding this helpful! For me, if it weren’t for figuring out a solution to the accidental activation, I would have gave up carrying the fw3a as my edc. It should be noted that I have very large hands and strong fingers. I often don’t keep that in consideration. The 3/16" o-ring w/o a center spacer is “stiff” in my book. For others, it may be unbearably so. Both of you have built upon the concept and adapted it to your taste, so good work to y’all as well. I’m happy there is a tune-able and simple solution to a problem that can be a deal breaker to an otherwise great design. As for the noise level of the switch, I’ve had very mixed - almost random - results during experimentation. The smallest tweak sometimes will take it from nearly silent to very loud. :question:

Thanks to all of you for figuring this out. I just tried the o-ring. It takes my favorite light up a notch or two. It is great now. I might experiment with some of the other suggestions also. The extra firmness is great as well as the additional loudness.

xevious · November 25, 2019, 6:57pm

Definitely amazing work on that Panerai. :+1:

trailhunter · November 24, 2019, 8:24pm

JaredM:

@Gunga

Yes. I’ll do up a small post with a how to… check back later.

UPDATE

I’ve revisited the design for creating a nubbin’ replacement that is simpler and (hopefully) universal. I had gone through many trial and error iterations and just stopped once I found a working combination. Turns out only one part of that configuration is needed. That’s the o-ring. 1/16” nominal thickness a 3/16” ID. Industry size –008.

Just remove the nubbin’ and insert said o-ring into the nubbin’ cavity of the switch boot. Carefully reassemble tailcap following guidelines mentioned in multiple fw3a threads. Enjoy the switch actuation that should have always been.

I did a quick search and they can be found on eBay for $2.50 per 10 shipped to US. Hardware or automotive stores will likely have something suitable as well.

Link?

JaredM · November 24, 2019, 8:56pm

For the o-rings?

trailhunter · November 24, 2019, 9:03pm

Yeah, I see 008 but I seen various sizes, just want to make sure i (we) get the right ones

jfg · November 25, 2019, 12:57am

Thank you JaredM for figuring out this oring mod. I had intentions of using the FW3A as a work tool, and this was not happening with the hair trigger stock switch.

JaredM · November 25, 2019, 2:09am

Scallywag · November 25, 2019, 2:46am

JaredM:

@Gunga

Yes. I’ll do up a small post with a how to… check back later.

UPDATE

I’ve revisited the design for creating a nubbin’ replacement that is simpler and (hopefully) universal. I had gone through many trial and error iterations and just stopped once I found a working combination. Turns out only one part of that configuration is needed. That’s the o-ring. 1/16” nominal thickness a 3/16” ID. Industry size –008.

Just remove the nubbin’ and insert said o-ring into the nubbin’ cavity of the switch boot. Carefully reassemble tailcap following guidelines mentioned in multiple fw3a threads. Enjoy the switch actuation that should have always been.

I did a quick search and they can be found on eBay for $2.50 per 10 shipped to US. Hardware or automotive stores will likely have something suitable as well.

I just found this. Thank you. This is a lot better.

cabfrank · November 25, 2019, 6:39am

I’m definitely going to try this. Thanks for the idea.

ttylamg · November 25, 2019, 7:14am

alright I am back… finally.

Fw3a TIR

BTW, anyone noticed that if you unscrew the body of fw3a it’ll start to light up and ramp up? is there a short some where on mine, or is this expected?

MascaratumB · November 25, 2019, 8:49am

It seems that there is some extra pressure somewhere in the switch, or some short if it starts to ramp by itself.
Go back to the tailcap and re-check it, otherwise it may turn ON accidentally and…you know that it will burn something!

ttylamg · November 25, 2019, 4:03pm

It wasn’t the tail switch. I was able to fix it by twisting the head back and forth several times, I felt some rough spots and when it is gone it no longer do that. I think the driver design is using various voltage as signal to turn on and off etc, so when the head circuit gets cut off temporarily it got mislead. So dirt or bad contact can cause this. Or so I assume.

hank · November 25, 2019, 5:03pm

Uh oh. Have you asked TK about this?

In general, I’d prefer “fail safe” over “fail worse” as a design principle, because stuff happens.
It would take some hardware fix to avoid fail-to-bright-and-hot, I’d think, not just software.

ttylamg · November 25, 2019, 5:25pm

You have to use twist it on and off to cause this. And some dirt or connectivity issue at the same time. This is not an expected usage, so there’s really no worry here (unless you have a need to use twist on or off frequently as cut off, like me).

f0xx · November 25, 2019, 5:58pm

May be a loose retaining ring… Mine have all had some initial issues with the ring being loose/off center, or the interior tube not meeting the intended contact point. Could also be some oxidation on the contact points… a q-tip with some rubbing alcohol may clear that up if it is an issue.