[M4D deal] Nightwatch NI40 with Luminus SBT90 Gen2 interest list OPEN

It is very unlikely you will notice the difference by eye, especially when your turning it on/off and changing batteries. If the lights are measured, then you will see the difference on paper.

I could not notice the difference b/w Vapcell 5500 and Golisi either in another light with 4000L output.If the difference is around 1000L like my other light, you may notice using Two lights IF you can get them on Turbo!

It is just a Flashaholics tendency to want MORE[The disease of more!],even if the eye can not pick it up. :smiley:

An e-switch solves all these power switch problems so easily . For me, this stock driver has to go... Oh boy.

To whom it has not yet been sent, it is necessary to write so that they send the flashlight with the corrected switch, otherwise it is necessary to refuse the purchase and return the money for the flashlight. Again, we probably need to wait 1 month until they fix it … :person_facepalming:

Ok so after some more trying belownis the best way to try to access the turbo.
First you do a full click to access the lowest mode or whatever the last memorized mode it was in
Then you do 2 half pushes ( no clicks) to access turbo. I think the trick is they have to be VERY fast - right next to each other. Older people will have issues doing such fast half-pushes one after the other . In other words a super fast double click ( double push)without the actual click.

I believe this only works from the on position. ( when the light is already on)

Yes you are spot on. This is how my sample is. There is nothing wrong with my switches. I have one sbt 90, XHP50.2, and flat white versions of this light. I have a total of 5 pieces of this light. The double half press will get you to turbo every time. It’s just hard to tell with our eyes. But I have a light meter, so I can confirm. But what I can tell you guys is the driver is CRAP. The memory is all whacked out. Sometimes it will remember the last mode, other times, it will go to next mode or previous mode. This is irritating. This defect goes for 5 samples. I went ahead and changed out the driver to the flat whites to make it single mode only. Sky Lumen did this mod. Dunno what he did or what driver he used.

I have no problem to activate turbo, however I agree that it can be hard when, for example, hands are cold. When the switch is released, there’s small pause before the light comes on. If you manage to half click in that time window, you’re in turbo mode.

I generally prefer lights without memory (starting on lowest mode) anyways. Is it at all possible to just disable the memory, perhaps at a hardware level?

Got mine today…

Spaced the battery tube out with 2 copper sealing rings, cleaned all contacts with NO-OX, and on a 30T off the charger I got just over 25amps at the hit and 4710lms at turn on and dropping steadily… the tail cap and driver springs have some resistance they get a little warm around 30 seconds so does the light. The driver is a 3 FET with R010 resistor DD driver and the FET’s are scratched out but they look to be the SIR 404/800/Infineon style/type of FET.

Maybe try some Blue Gen 3 springs or just go for the 18awg bypass’s on the springs when I get the chance maybe this weekend…

Thanks for the info.

How does the UI/Tail switch work for you in regards to activating Turbo?

I ordered five 24x30x2mm rings. Would I need to use two or should one be fine?

Mine just shipped now, with some FW3A accessories!

Ordered Oct 23rd. Last DHL order from Neal took 11 days for shipping, so by Dec 1st or so.

I’m still waiting until now. Neal said that the LED is still out of stock.

I have to look into further…. tonight….

I used 2 one on the head end and tail cap… the springs are very stiff and they stack, didn’t want to dent the 30T…

A bit of an update…

Pic of the driver…

The switch is a large OMTEN and it works well on this example … no misfire’s so far…

I swapped the springs out with Blue Swords gen II springs and went straight to the 18awg bypass’s on both springs…

Just over 5000lms at turn on (30T 4.21v)

4315lms at 30 seconds and it is getting very very warm

then checked Turbo again … 4590lms at turn on battery was pulled and checked at 4.071v

it’s a very hungry LED… :smiley:

Thanks for sharing the info. Did you wait for it to cool before the second test?

@KB

Thanks for the tests,

Regarding the switch. Does the UI work the way it is listed on Neales website:

for SBT90.2:

Moon-Low-Medium-High

double clicks Turbo ,triple clicks strobe.

OR

Do you have to improvise like others have said, that is Turn it ON and then Two half presses for turbo. Supposedly can not be activated from the OFF position.

,Thanks

Here is what I measured with the Baby Blue LiitoKala (didn’t measure the voltage at the time) and I haven’t been really following this thread as of late… this is what I got…

1. 37lm

2. 505lm

3. 948lm

4. 1680lm

5. Dbl Tap - Turbo … (while in Turbo) Dbl Tap - Strobe

. It has memory so in lowest level, I double tap - Turbo - off, and repeated this Low- double tap Turbo off quite a few times and it never failed. I cycled thru the 4 modes many times, no hiccups. Got the light screaming hot, and repeated the above thinking maybe heat might make it wonky… never failed?

The inside’s…

Checked the shelf and board for flatness….a little stoning…… not too shabby… now what to do with all these pieces…. :open_mouth:

Can you try turning it off on turbo and see if it turns back on in turbo? When you do this, please check with your lumen tube, because high mode looks very similar to turbo mode. Can you do this 5 or more times
To be sure. All 5 of my samples have wonky memory. It will probably turn on in turbo mode three out of ten times.