Nicely made custom lights and practical too, great to see how they will be used, the comparison and knowing they will improve your ride 
Outstanding to see what you are capable of these days Steve! Brilliant!
Orsm custom bike lights Steve . Very nice upgrade, you have a eye for functioning detail.
Alot of time when into building this, I applaud your effort and skills, well done 
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The driver looks like it has 2 current limiting resistors marked R240 and R160, assuming low and high beam.
Lowering each to about half should about double the current on each, estimated guess.
What can I say that has not been said 
Cheers David
These are the drivers here moderator007. No modes on this driver, just different outputs.
I forgot this driver put out 4.8 amps. Had it in my simple mind it was 4 amps.
That’s a interesting buck driver. Output current settable by jumper pads. Those 2 resistors are for setting the other 2 output currents apparently. Even has infinite variable output using a 250k pot. Very nice driver with good effeciency. Nice find Steve.
I don’t see anything that limits the max output, assuming the buck controller is maxed out. I’m no expert though.
I may order a couple just to check out. Thanks for the link.
Awesome work!
Is that Pinkpanda’s Roadhouse? 
That build is fantastic MRsDNF (and so is the bike! super jealous!) well planned, well made, look gorgeous and you certainly can’t argue with the end result - they do exactly what you wanted them to do!
Very Nice Work Machining, Design, and Implementation of your Bikes upgraded lights. :+1:
It is fun to have an idea and make adjustments on the fly as needed. 
Thank You for sharing that driver and led info, I have a zoomie that may use that one mode 4.8A driver.
Cool 
MRsDNF, Just looking over all your posted pics. Such a nice job, I really like that Mastech HY3030e power supply.
Is it a switching or linear and will a switching Power supply do for checking driver setup on bench testing ?
Lol, they come in all shapes, sizes, flavours and colours dont’ they.
Looks like a mighty improvement for night riding. Safe riding Moose.
Not that either means anything to me it is a Switching PS. One of the best things I’ve bought and had it for along time now.
Really nice design and rock solid custom built lights.
Thanks Tally-ho. See ya. 
Wow MRsDNF. It looks like a whole lot of careful effort went into these puppies. And it also looks like you can really light up the road.
I must’ve been absent when you built that light with the copper inserts and slots. I had not seen that one before. It is beautiful.
Thanks Hoop. I look at some of the lights I built and wonder how they ever happened. Must be getting old. Well getting older. 
Mrsdnf well done , again, and again
I must say they came out unreal.
+ 1 on the Russian making more powerful drivers.
Hi MRsDNF! What amazing skills and attention to details you have! Thank you for sharing your build and posting beam shots. How are your flamethrowers holding up so far? The output is simply amazing and Im very jealous!
Ive long been thinking about a high powered compact lighting system for my touring bike (which has a 70 amp alternator to power all the gizmos Ive added). What is your opinion about the Jaycar lights you once used? Im looking for a great light housing that can disperse 100 watts of heat through an XHP70.2. Do you think the Jaycar would be a good choice for the XHP70.2 conversion? Do the housings have thermal capabilities up to the task of exchanging 100 watts of heat energy (thick floor plate attached to the cooling fins, sufficient mass/surface area, sold robust housing, etc.) What about the beam pattern with the 70.2? Do you like the reflectors? If you’re not sure… no biggie.
Ive contemplated going with CPU heat sinks with mounted 12 volt fans and elliptical TIR optics to put all the light on the road and guarantee heat transfer from the emitters. But Id have to use epoxy to cobble it all together and make it waterproof. Only the front of the optics would be visible, so it would remain compact and wouldn’t be that noticeable while still looking decent.
Let me know if you’re still interested in a more powerful robust driver solution. I bought some custom linear automotive drivers from a guy on CPF who builds them (I assume he still does). They were about $30-35 USD each as I recall. They are hardened to deal with transient voltage spikes alternators throw off, have voltage protection cut-off set at 15VDC, ramping independent remote thermal protection for both the driver and heat sink, output 13.5A (so theoretically 190.5W at 14.1VDC). Also capable of accepting remote potentiometer leads to adjust output. But because it is a linear driver, its most efficient while ran at max output. Anything less is converted to heat and must be sinked through the FET. Id probably mount the driver in a small cheap aluminum box with the large FET glued to the side to keep it cooled. That, or possibly use a spot on the aluminum bike frame for the FET heat exchanger. This driver with a pair of XHP70.2 emitters on 12V MCPCBS in parallel should be sufficiently bright… but now I need to find the best way to make it happen.
Sheesh! Can I just “barrow” your lights and call it good?
Thank you for reading!
Thanks FP.
The problem using a housing like the Jaycars is that the led is mounted to the circuit board. If you pull the reflector out everything is in view. The advantage of the housing though is that it it is cast so only has material where you need it so can be made lighter a lot easier than machining from a solid block of metal.
The only issue with the XHP70.2 led in the reflector I used is that there is a slight halo around the very outer edge of the beam. This was noticeable when the lights were first fired up in the shed which I thought would be annoying.
When mounted to the bike I have not noticed this halo at all.
I did try this reflector in my Monster light that had an MTG2 led and it had the same halo but maybe slightly worse. I could not tune this out or modify the bezel to get rid of this unwanted extra light. In the end I put the reflector I originally built the torch with back in.
The Lum reflectors are meant for an XML led so guess that is where the issue is.
Do I like the reflectors? In a torch no. Set up how they are now without noticing the halo effect yes. These are available in 10 degrees as well if you want more flood than throw.
I’m reckoning that these lights are drawing around 36 watts each. The housings themselves are not really getting hot at all and I’d say that 50 watts would be easily achievable if needed. There is a fair amount of mass in these housings. At 100 watts you could run three of these XHP70.2 6 volt leds at about 4.5 amps. That would be a large light.
Your idea for a light sounds interesting. About using a fan for cooling would this only be needed when your at a standstill as when the bike is moving it has air moving over it.
What was the optics you were looking at?
I’m always interested in more power. Money is usually the deciding factor though. The Aussie dollar is pretty weak compared to the US dollar so your $35.00 dollar driver would probably be about $60.00 plus shipping. 
With your drivers you could run an army of 12 volt XHP70.2 leds.
I was contemplating remote mounting my drivers but in the end the lack of room on my bike and the extra wiring involved decided to mount them in the housing of the lights.With the driver parts that needed heat sinking heat sinked directly to their own housing, I’m really happy with how they came together. Just need some shorter days here to get out and really use them in anger.
By all means drop in anytime you like. The kettles is always on these days.
All the best for what eventuates. Make sure to post your creation up.