Short Review of Sofirn SP33 v2 with XHP50.2

The battery on my SP33 V2 has never gotten lower than the flashing green indicator. At that point I recharge the battery. But, I don’t know what the volts are when the green light flashes. The time the light was stuck on moonlight, the green light was solid. I remember because I went through the process of elimination, or should I say process of illumination LOL.

Yeah, the flashlight is not worth putting any money into it to fix. And, sending it back to Sofirn would cost me close to the purchase price, I would imagine. I might have gotten one of the lemons from the bunch.

Do you think it would be worth contacting Sofirn to see if they would give a discount on a SP33 V3? What is their contact info?

I dont know.
Sofirn has a account here on BLF.

You can also contact them through their Aliexpress store.

Clean the end cap contacts with something lightly abrasive like fine sandpaper or scrubbing pad

Just a light brush or two

And make sure the tailcap spring has good contact

If that doesnt work contact their us email

Thank you JasonWW, and Bearbreeder.

I think the problem is the battery voltage drop in the turbo (high current). I would not rely heavily on the indication of the button. It seems to me that it is worth checking the operation of the flashlight with high-current batteries, I’m sure the problem will disappear.

I think it happens with all batteries with mine. I have the Shocli 5500, the Sofirn 5500 and the VapeCell 5500, all newish. I cleaned mine again last night and I will see how it acts. It’s hard to tell because it works fine until it doesn’t.

I received a reply from Sofirn. I guess they are saying there is nothing wrong or defective? It is operating as designed? I get no turbo at all on occasion, not even a lower brightness. Fidget with the light a bit, and I have full turbo again. So I don’t understand why they are telling me, that what I am experiencing is normal . I am more confused, actually.

I copied and pasted their full exact reply here:

“Hi Richard (Swabs), thank you for contacting.

Please note that the Turbo mode can only be acticated when the battery is full of juice. Green side indicator doesn’t mean it’s ful of power.

It’s kind of design. Not defective. But good news it, the design is changed. You can have Turbo even when the battery power is not ful, but the brightness is lower caused by the lower current from the battery.

Regards,

Sofirn”

Did you tell them the other issues? It’s more than just a turbo problem.

Hmmm

Have you timed the stepdown on a full bat?

Yes, everything I said here, I repeated to Sofirn. Stuck in moonlight mode, having to remove battery and wipe it down to get turbo to work, loosing and removing tail cap to get turbo to work, etc.

Join their fbook group and put up a post about it

That way folks who have the sp33v2 can tell u if theirs have the same issue

No step down issue. What happens is, I will turn on the light and it will only have low and medium brightness working. I turn it off and try turning it on again, and again, but only two levels initially work. I do the tricks mentioned and I get turbo again. Works normal for a while, and then repeats the no-turbo level at initial turn-on, again. Then I repeat the process of cleaning the battery or resetting tail cap, and turbo works again. Sofirn is my favorite flashlight brand at the moment, and I am attached to my SP33 V2 enough to live with its quirky characteristics if Sofirn says it is operating as designed.

Also have u tried tightening the retaining ring on the head and the tail springs?

Make sure nothing is loose, a pair of needlenose pliers should do the trick (or 2 nails held in a X with elastic like chopsticks)

The driver is glued. I just noticed something about mine I didn’t see before. The spring on the driver side is compressed. The battery always did rattle. I pulled on it with needle nosed pliers to stretch it back out. Less rattle know and maybe solved the problem . Will see.

I don’t have a Facebook account, and have no interest joining or participating on it. No offense, just not my thing, I am weird like that. I know Facebook can be a good tool for many things, but I am happy living under my rock LOL.

Mine came with a battery. The 26650 is pretty heavy and shipping may have been rough, compressing my spring. The spring seems a little light gauge. Anyway, I will let you know if it helps to stretch mine out.

I will try that, thank you. The battery only rattles a tiny bit when I shake the torch aggressively. But, all my lights do that, and some more than others.

Ok, I cautiously used needle nose pliers on the springs top and bottom. I will see if the problem goes away, but like I mentioned, it happens occasionally, so if I go a month with no issues, maybe it worked.

If the driver is glued it then u shouldnt tighten the head, there may not be holes to do so

These kind of switching issues are usually some kind of looseness … or the bat

I remember someone saying sofirn had an issue with the tail springs in some lights not being the proper length

What you can do is short the tail like fenix shows which will tell you if its a tail spring/cap issue

https://www.fenix-store.com/troubleshooting-your-flashlight/

Good video, thank you.

Any time you get it working by fiddling with the contacts tells me it’s something to do with the contacts. I would go through and clean all contact points. Both ends of battery tube, end of driver spring, edge of driver, pull out the tail spring and clean both ends, clean the tail cap outer edge plus the notch the spring fits in. Dirt, powder or just oxidation at one point can cause a small amount of extra resistance. You might have 2 or more points of extra resistance and are only cleaning some, but not all.

Also, make sure your springs are pressing tight against the battery. I push my tail cap down 1/4” before the threads engage. Then it compresses more as it threads down so I know it’s got good pressure. I don’t feel the battery sliding at all when I shake it hard up and down.