Do those Ikea tealights have their own flicker circuits, or is it integrated in the stock LED, in which case you lose the flicker effect when swapping the emitter?
The LED tea lights I have are the latter type, so I’m keeping an eye out for something else.
What are those lights? Where to get them?
Want one.
I finally got the 2300K LEDs and tried them in my rechargeable tealight candles. I absolutely love it, it’s the closest I’ve been to a real candle light, and in a light holder of any kind it looks convincing.
From left: Original monochrome orange 3mm LED, 2300K LED and 3400K LED. Camera @5000K
Here they are with their included diffusers, looks pretty good. Can’t wait to solder all 12 of them and place them around the house.
I still use real candles on my living room table due to the cozyness and smell, but these are a lot safer to use unattended around the house, especially with cats around.
These Ikea lights have an integrated curcuit. I believe it’s these :
It’s just a tealight holder we’ve had for ages with Ikea tea lights inside :
Hey all, long time no see.
I would like to buy 100 pcs of 2300K 5mm LEDs.
I didn’t read the whole thread, so i’m not sure what you have in stock or if i should DM you, rngwm ?
Ah, okay !
You can PM me and choose the shipping option you desire (Pricing & fees in the OP).
If you want to make things easier for me, you can summarize the pricing in the PM for me.
(Tracked shipping is kinda pointless for Netherlands though, since it can’t really be tracked)
I hope you meant to say “10 in parallel to an AMC7135”. But why do you choose AMC7135 and PWM? :facepalm: The Arduino could be used to sense current over 3x sense resistor paths, precisely tuning a driving MOSFET VGS in each of them for accurate, PWM free linear current control.
I’ve read that’s not a good idea, but then I have not much clue about those things. I guess parallel is easier for the lower voltage needed?
Need to read about MOSFET circuits :weary: .
Ordered and paid. :+1:
No, that’s fine.
For 10 in series you need 32 29 Volts.
For 10 in parallel you only need 3.2 2.9 Volts, like from a single Li-Ion cell.
The AMC7135 will eat up a minimum of 150 mV.
In any case, driving leds in parallel could have some current sharing problems due to Vf differences between emitters. This can be minimized by binning leds with a multimeter, i.e. set them all extended over a table in a room with stable temperature for a little while first (acclimating emitters, they're sensitive to temperature) while laying a multimeter close, then use the multimeter to read and note down every emitter's Vf systematically at least once. Use the results to sort the emitters in Vf packs: 10 lowest, next 10, …, last and highest Vf 10-pack. This would minimize the above problem.
Well, as a word for caution, Vf disparity will be an issue.
The 3400k/5800k does have 0.1v higher Vf than 2300k.
I will, Barkuti. Thank you guys 
.
Will come back with questions when the project advances, I fear 
No problem. The colors will be driven seperately.
Just an update:
only 5 2 packs left for 2300k.
I will check up with my supplier on Monday and see if I can restock this 2300k tint.
There are many ways to drive emitters. Arrays of series emitters will display closer average Vf sum, this for example means it would be far better to drive a 10-pack in 10S or 2P5S arrangement. Watch out I said 2P5S, this means 2 parallel 5S arrays, which is a lot different than 5S2P. There are cheap boost DC/DC converters which can output that voltage from li-ion cells easily:
The MT3608 boost module is going to be reviewed by Henrik soon I think, sent him a 5 piece pack long ago. Now that I recall this, it was the 5th of August, he should have received the package sometime in September and we're almost in December already. 
About that CRI 95 SMD, you mean this one?
Yes
Regarding driving LED’s in parallel, I think we can make some basic deductions from djozz’s data:
If you’re driving 10 at 350mA, that’s 35mA each.
From djozz’s graph, that’s about 2.95V.
If you had one LED in the group with a Vf that was lower and therefore hogging the current, then from the same data, I’d estimate the resulting current in the worst-driven LED as follows:
0.1V lower = 55mA
0.2V lower = 70mA
Since one of his survived an isolated test for 12 hours at 100mA, the over-current does not seem to be a problem. However, rngwn observed that if packed together, they heat up and may eventually run away:
So for the idea of running 10 on a 7135, I think heat is the main concern.