MF01 Mini / MT07- Mod/Upgrade - Copper Heatsink Cover Plate

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Valery
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I’ll take 1

sandro
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Interested in 2
Thanks

KevinZA1988
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Interested in 1.

thank you…

Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

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Agro
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Vinh sells these lights and I believe not just a few. Maybe he would be interested in buying a number of cover plates?

Skylight
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Please add another heatsink for me, 2 in total. Thank you.

BOMBAY
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interested i will take one

Chatika vas Paus
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I’ll take two pieces

Di_Joker
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If I understand correctly, we will need a magnet to ensure contact between the battery and the driver. But in this case, there is a danger that the magnet will make a short circuit to the custom radiator.

Sorry for my poor english.

Lexel
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Di_Joker wrote:
If I understand correctly, we will need a magnet to ensure contact between the battery and the driver. But in this case, there is a danger that the magnet will make a short circuit to the custom radiator.

 

I thought he also makes protective stickers, but generally with this plate a magnet is a bad idea and its not needed as the positive button is raised

 

 

I sent Mateminco the CAD files, I hope they decide to use them on next batch or even replace it on any future lights leaving fab after they got them made

f0xx
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Interested in 1.

Thank you!

SKV89
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Please add one more for me. 3 total. THanks

Xenovora
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Likewise, please put me down for one more, for a total of three (3). Thanks!

Xenovora

Lexel
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I hope Mateminco can do an aluminum version that’s anodized, so any shorting issues would be not that much of a problem
copper or brass is nice but the type of material does not play a big role here, its relative few heat on a big surface

id30209
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Agro wrote:
Vinh sells these lights and I believe not just a few. Maybe he would be interested in buying a number of cover plates?

I have posted in his sales thread this topic but he (looks to me) furiously deleted it.

CPF is strong there...

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

Agro
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Interesting…normally he is a nice guy.
Was it him who deleted it or maybe someone else?
Did you direct the offer at him or at readers?

id30209
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It shows that last edit was done by him. I have posted openly in his thread where guys were dicussing about heat and quick step down...

Whatever, he’s been informed

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

SKV89
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He like many others on CPF have been warned by CPF moderators to not allow any links to BLF. It’s not that Vinh don’t want to allow BLF links but he might get banned by CPF and he relies on CPF for his business to pay his bills

id30209
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Yep, that’s what am thinking. Like i said, he has info so he might jump in.

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

man of light
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Di_Joker wrote:
If I understand correctly, we will need a magnet to ensure contact between the battery and the driver. But in this case, there is a danger that the magnet will make a short circuit to the custom radiator.

No, there ist no magnet needed with the actual design (V2.1), only in my first mod (V1) with the old design, while I was using an aluminum heatsink I was using a magnet, because it was to scary for me.
In the new V2.1 design there is a cutoff around the connector button (plus pol of the battery), so the plus pol button is 1 mm raised, additionally i deliver such isolation stickers for the top surface, see the description in post one.

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man of light
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Lexel wrote:

I sent Mateminco the CAD files, I hope they decide to use them on next batch or even replace it on any future lights leaving fab after they got them made

Thanks for doing this Lexel, we will see what they will decide and do with this idea and design.

Lexel wrote:
Copper or brass is nice but the type of material does not play a big role here, its relative few heat on a big surface

I have another expectation for that, I think the copper version will perform better in some diffucult situations, like top ramp with a fully loaded high drain battery. Copper has way more density, therefore can take more heat energy in the first few seconds and due to the better thermal conductivity bring this heat faster away to the body.
Maybe I’m wrong with this, but we will see, in a few days I will provide my test results of both options with runtime graphs before and after the mod.

Brass is not comparable in this case, due to the very limited space and a three times worse thermal conductivity than copper. (Copper 380W/mK, Aluminum 236 W/mK, Brass 120W/mK).

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gerasalex
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man of light wrote:

Maybe I’m wrong with this, but we will see, in a few days I will provide my test results of both options with runtime graphs before and after the mod.
It would be interesting to see the images of the thermal imager and the effectiveness of the “copper” – extending the heating of the AMS, if, of course, it can be distinguished separately from the LED (in the thermal imager) …

"... God is light, and in him is no darkness at all..." 1 John 1:5 (KJV)

Lexel
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gerasalex wrote:
man of light wrote:
Maybe I’m wrong with this, but we will see, in a few days I will provide my test results of both options with runtime graphs before and after the mod.
It would be interesting to see the images of the thermal imager and the effectiveness of the “copper” – extending the heating of the AMS, if, of course, it can be distinguished separately from the LED (in the thermal imager) …

I have a professional IR imager, but copper is bad needs to be not reflective like anodized aluminum, sticker might help
Not sure if I can get a free sample with national envelope here in Germany, does not need be a parcel

man of light
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Lexel wrote:
Not sure if I can get a free sample with national envelope here in Germany, does not need be a parcel

The production of the first batch is not yet started. I received only two samples of the CNC-machined final version (V2.1), one of them is on the way to ZozzV6 for testings, the other one i keep for my own testings. Zozz will make a review of the MF01 mini and test this mod in addition and provide the results.
Later, as soon as the first batch is ready for shipping, we can talk about test samples, sorry for that.

Anyway, i will earn nearly nothing with all this project, the production costs in germany are quite high, so I mostly doing this just for fun and for the community.

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KevinZA1988
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Di_Joker wrote:
If I understand correctly, we will need a magnet to ensure contact between the battery and the driver. But in this case, there is a danger that the magnet will make a short circuit to the custom radiator.

What if you solder a spring to the button on the driver? It will space the battery from the custom radiator. The tail spring has more than enough space to compensate if you use a 26650.

Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

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ghost face
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
Di_Joker wrote:
If I understand correctly, we will need a magnet to ensure contact between the battery and the driver. But in this case, there is a danger that the magnet will make a short circuit to the custom radiator.

What if you solder a spring to the button on the driver? It will space the battery from the custom radiator. The tail spring has more than enough space to compensate if you use a 26650.

I think this is ready solved with sticker will isolate battery from touch the new plate, and copper plate is same size as plastic plate so battery will make good contact with positive post just like before, no additional length need added.

Please correct me if is wrong. What is danger if sticker wears down and battery contacts copper plate?

are you alone in the house?

Lexel
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The battery wont hit the plate if you use tubed extender for smaller sizes
Magnets are not needed and with this metal plate they are a potential dead short risk

Di_Joker
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It seems to me ideally that the radiator needs to be anodized and use stickers made of dielectric. Double protection))

Sorry for my poor english.

tatasal
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Please include me in the list for one unit.

man of light
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I’ve just updated post #1 with new pictures, runtime graphs and an update on current status, so take a look on that.
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Here are some more runtime graphs regarding this mod.
This results are only for technical interested for discussions and to compare the aluminum (V1) and the copper version (V2.1) to each other in their efficiency.
This results are not showing the effect before and after the mod, only variations in the material and the design of the heatsink plates.

Turbo mode test, both with fresh loaded Shockli 26650 IMR 5500mah, there is not much of a difference.

Here a special scenario with a freshly loaded high drain cell, Samsung 40T. In this case the AMC’s become hot very quickly, a good thermal transfer is necessary to avoid the step down.

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khas
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Please put me on the list for 2 pcs.

Thanks

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