FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

I just got around to it tonight. TOTALLY TRANSFORMATIONAL! Excellent idea, and takes less than two minutes. Thanks Jared!
I can see trying a 5/32, or maybe experimenting a little, because it is a bit stiff now, but it is great, and SO MUCH BETTER. I really got tired of the four click routine all the time, and this light did turn on far too easily. I bought three 008 rings at the hardware store, and it is for sure the best 90 cents I’ve ever spent.

I’m curious about the 5/32 now as well. I probably have one laying around.

If I get some time to tinker with lights this weekend, I’m going to look into ways of silencing the switch with this setup as well

That looks fantastic. Checked out SCP–beautiful work.

Btw, about that lanyard ring attachment -- any info on it? EDIT: what is attached to the ring, to clarify

I first tried the 3/16” o-ring and button was way too firm for my liking. Exceeded stiffness beyond what I’d consider normal. I found 5/32” works much better. The only drawback is that it does create some switch noise (the OEM nubbin has hardly any sound at all, at least with my early production FW3A). Not anything unusual and still quieter than a clicky switch or the 3/16” o-ring.

lanyard ring

I used a spare mechanical keyboard o-ring I had, which was not quite “to spec” but close.

Thoughts after carrying it some: Completely different light. Not a single accidental activation since the switch (pardon the pun). The button is a wee bit mushy now, but the functionality is incredible. This is how the FW3A always should have been. It instantly jumped up to be one of my leading pocket-time lights, especially after also going to the throwiest Carclo triple optic.

I have one already. I was actually interested in the attachment to it, not the ring itself.

Just did the o-ring mod also using a generic keyboard keycap sized o-ring and did a very [un]scientific method of measuring switch force: used a kitchen scale and watched how much weight in grams was needed to actuate the switch.

Three candidates: Gen1 grey FW3A without switch retaining ring, blue FW3A with switch retaining ring but similar switch feel with the o-ring mod, and a purple FW3A with switch retaining ring and a much stiffer stock switch which must be an improved switch design.

Actuation force, approximated:

Grey FW3A with light switch: ~300g

Purple FW3A with stiffer switch: ~600g

Blue FW3A with light switch and o-ring mod: ~700g

One thing of note is the purple FW3A’s stock stiff switch is much more satisfying to click than the modded blue one, there’s a bit of dead travel in the o-ring switch without the nubbin’ leading to an initially mushy feel like others have said, but it’s definitely an improvement.

This is an easy hardware fix instead of modifying the firmware to make a software solution.

The firmware “fix” I did was to replace the lockout second click’s default value of using the second ramp’s floor for momentary, with the value used for manual memory which I use on all my Anduril lights. So 2H gave me a momentary function for the level of light set to manual memory while locked out, useful if light was only needed for a couple seconds.

I swapped the leds to SST20 3500K, really nice tint. But I am getting short somewhere, there is only turbo. I was checking the both sides of driver under stereomicroscope and didn ´t find anything. First I tested leds with a power supply on low miliamps and everything worked as expected. I really have to figure this out :D. Maybe some driver components are touching a flashlight body, don´t know.

Only turbo?

This happened to me on my polished FW3T after I tried swapping in the optics and the new optic pressed too firmly against the emitter.

The problem wasn’t the driver. Rather it was a bad solder job under one of the LEDs. There was a short between the negative contact pad of one LED and the center ground pad. You can test for this as follows:

  • remove the star from the light
  • connect one probe from your DMM to the negative driver wire pad on the top of the star.
  • connect the other probe from your DMM to the side or bottom of the star.

If you get a connection, then you have a short. This short causes the light to bypass the driver completely. The only output you get is max turbo and the switch does nothing. It will turn on in max turbo the instant the battery tube is halfway screwed in.

If you have the same problem, the solution is to reflow the LEDs and check the solder under each one. I did that on mine and it completely fixed the problem.

I love the look of the hammered copper this guy did

When you assemble the light, is it instantly turbo or does it ramp up first? Mine did the second after I dis- and re-assembled the switch, and I had to take it all apart and re-assemble carefully according to… There’s instructions somewhere, let me re-find them… The FW3A useful information thread

If it’s instantly on turbo and the switch does nothing the driver is probably being bypassed.

If it actually ramps up then the problem is probably a short in the battery compartment between the inner tube and the outer casing.

Dang. That’s some artwork.

Also, couldn’t help but notice how nice the non-tapered battery tube looks… (sorry in advance)

Firelight2, you were right, I resoldered the leds and problem was solved. I should check if leds are grounded sooner with a power supply :person_facepalming: :smiley: . Thanks for help, as always nice advices here.

That’ the first thing I noticed lol, really like the look of it.

Happy to help! :+1: :sunglasses:

My o-rings arrived for the FW3A.

Very quick mod. Disassemble the switch, pull out the nubbin, install the o-ring. Reassemble.

The difference is absolutely amazing! The switch still has a nice distinct click, but now requires much more pressure to activate. This is the way it should have shipped out of the box! :heart_eyes:

Glad to hear it worked out for you. Which size did you use?

I bought these o-rings from Amazon. The link was from someone else earlier in this thread. They work great!