New 2xAA or 4xAA light to replace fenix ld20

I have had the sofirn sf11 for several months and find it to be excellent. I use it for walking and the double click to strobe is excellent for crossing streets. I’ve had vehicles stop at crosswalks where normally they blow through. It has a decent throw and also a good spill and lots of light.

The “moonlight” is a bit bright for preserving night vision inside the house but I don’t use it for that anyway.

I’m using rechargeable 2450 mah batteries in it.

John.

How about regulation? Does it produce constant output during all the runtime? I mean… The circuitry does pull more amps as the voltage goes down to maintain constant brightness??

Any review with graphics showing that?

Thanks

Had a SF11, seemed like a nice light until the switch died within the first month. Not a fan of the beer can form but I can see how some would be.

I got a bunch of multi-AA lights just to burn down in bulk the excavated relics I found in fossilised 40pax of AAs and the like.

Rayovac and (black) Rat Shack brands, never leaked. Enerleakers and/or Duraleaks would’ve been salt-blocks by then.

SF11 :+1:

I use 4 Eneloops. Really makes a lotta light.

samgalax:
I am not equipped to do a test of the regulation. I seldom use the high mode - usually the lowest (non moon) mode and it lasts a long time on a set of batteries. I have noticed that using it in high mode does tend to deplete the batteries fairly quickly but can’t give you any measured times on that. The switch glows green if the batteries are “fresh” and then orange/red if they are low. Being a “pop can” light it is a bit harder to hang onto however I use a lanyard and that helps a lot.

John.

Thanks a lot!

Blew my budget and got fenix ld42 locally, seems just fine. Plastic batterybody doesn’t bother me, seems to be something like polycarbonate so should stand up to my easy usage. Also it’s getting eblow zero here 24/7 in winter so no heat issues I think. It’s throwy but still has decent spill, only hope is in future they make more neutral white options. Thanks for suggestions though, may buy some of the suggested light as second light or gift!

Just some comment on the ZanFlare F2 vs Lumintop Tool25, since although both use 2xAA, the Tool25 has a smaller head (more floody) while the ZanFlare F2 has a slightly bigger head diameter.

The ZanFlare F2 may only be "200" lumens but is the more "throwy" light, whereas the Tool25 has a more 'balanced' (not too throwy) beam pattern.

(in the video, flashlight is around 18 meters or 60 feet away from the "wall")

The Zanaflare is a very decent light, especially at that price. Any ideas on options without LMM?

I really like my TN4a. Surprised how much I like it actually. The long press to an excellent moonlight mode with a double click for a turbo with over 1000 lumens that can be used with fantastic thermal regulation, are just two features I love about this light. The NW version is a nice tint to my eye and the beam profile is fantastic. Not sure if you might consider it too wide but it will easily throw to 200 meters.

The only problem with the light is the fact that it is a “tomato paste can” format light. Not something you are going to want to put in a pants pocket. OK for a winter coat pocket but it is certainly nothing like a 18650 light. Better thermal control than even a C8 — way better than any tube light — but much more bulky and heavy. Price also may put it out of your budget but I got mine on sale.

IIRC, the cheaper “twins” of this light don’t have the moonlight or the UI but if those things aren’t important they certainly are cheaper. If you don’t need performance parity with an 18650 light you may prefer one of the 2 AA for the size / weight.

Ummm, you want NMM instead? :confounded:

I bought that SF11 off Amazon on Oct 15th.Yesterday when I went to use it it did not work with side button showing green.Swapped out the 4 AA and still no luck.On close examination I found that the Cree XPL LED had detached from the MCPCB.

It's past the return date so I'll need to put it in the electric skillet to reattach the LED.

Sounds like a good time to replace that CW XPL. I’ve been very happy with the quality of light from the ~3000k 80CRI XPL HI. Its not as nice as the 80CRI XPG that Malkoff used as those looked virtually the same as a halogen while the XPL HI almost has a “brown” tint. But still very decent and only noticeable when comparing to a 4000k or higher 219 or sst-20.

You think it might have overheated? Also check if it has enough thermal paste underneath the LED board.

I seriously doubt it overheated.I've not had it on turbo or high except for a short test on each setting the day I received it.

I had 4 x Sanyo XX in it while it sat unused in my SUV console since Oct 16th till 2 days ago.

So it's a 20mm MCPCB with domed Cree XPL.What is my" best" option for replacement without touching anything else in the light?

I like 6500K but 5000K is OK too.

I had the same bad solder on my SF11 and so did someone else in another thread about that light.

That is no good sign. The types of emitters are endlessly whatsthepoint. It's a personal thing. I would suggest going to Intl-outdoor.com to see some options.

The SF11 was my only working 4 x AA .My other one,a Nitecore EA41,went bad when the copper tops in it leaked.I see a thread on rebuilding the EA8 and another on the EA41 but I don't see the exact procees of getting the parts out and the tools needed.

Any thoughts on LEDs from Mountain Electronics LLC while I'm ordering a pair of black ShockLi 26650?

OK,I got the SF11 working using the electric skillet method to reattach the Cree XPL to the aluminum

MCPCB.

I think this was the 2nd time the skillet was used in the 10+ years we have it.

Added high quality thermal paste while I was at it.

Piece of Cake