New Olight i1R 2 EOS

I find the tint is much cooler then the previous version

Noticeably worse than the SST-20, though more pleasant than my Sipik SK68. That and the non-replaceable battery are the biggest weaknesses. Otherwise it’s very nice.

Does anyone know how to test for LVP?

Without disassembling I can’t measure voltage, so I have kept the light on to see if it turns off by itself. Right now the light is so weak that it must be sub-lumen, as it is useless for anything except in pitch black. I can comfortably look straight at the LED. I can’t see colors with that brightness. It’s strange when red looks black. Still, it’s amazing what even a tiny amount of light can do, definitely better than nothing.

Yes, just got mine. I had interpreted my i1R EOS as leaning cool white. This i1R2 EOS is most definitely cool white. Larger TIR optic. I can see the 130 to 150 lumens jump. It’s nominal. Frankly, I just assume they keep 130 lumens and extend runtime more.

Btw, just be aware that when you keep on your key chain, the lower body grip area (fluted lines) will lose lots of anodizing from rubbing against metal keys. When I get a chance I’ll take a comparative photo to show it.

I jumped on the “free but must pay shipping” deal and received my light yesterday, Looks nicely made. Bright enough for its intended use and is pretty easy to operate with one hand. I had to practice a bit, but it’s a solid design.

My only concern is the non-replaceable battery. Kinda stinks if it’s going to be useless one day. I dislike disposable products.

I did some poking around and on the Olight product spec page, there’s a few pics of the battery and both sides of the charging board. I couldn’t see the brand name of the battery though or the size.

Here’s a link to the download with the pics:

https://olightworld.com/index.php?route=product/download/download&did=148

Maybe someone can glean a bit more info about it by looking there.

10180 huahui new energy

Without LVP its a disposable light unless u take it apart to swap the bat :wink:

Nice find, PBWilson!

Any idea if the disassembly shown in the pictures is possible reversibly, or if the internals were from a not-yet-assembled or destroyed unit?

Why do you say that?

Can the presence of LVP be verified without measuring voltage?

as for being disposable? even if it dies completely one day I have to assume it has more than enough cycles in it to get me to another even better light sometime down the road. I’ll use the hell out of it and gladly give them as gifts.

Especially at this price.

I look at it this way — the cost of the light is far cheaper than the effort to replace the battery. It is disposable… unless someone wants to have a practice run at soldering with it. Would be curious to see if anyone has tried modifying.

Its disposable because accidental activation to 0v a few times will kill the bat

Its not the best idea to discharge li-on bats to 0v, nor recharge em back up afterwards either

Dont see the problem really, by the time the battery is worn out u probably have something else…

these little 10180 lights are pretty generic
you can buy replacement 10180 cells that are usually unprotected
Klarus sells a protected version

I dont own the Olight version, and its cool the head is captive, but Im confident it can be removed so you could replace the battery

there is NO LVP built into these lights
you Can buy batteries w LVP

> Does anyone know the CRI on both of these lights?

they are low CRI, that means about 70CRI Ra, with negative CRI R9 (red spectrum)
IF they were High CRI, it would be mentioned in the marketing material

Olight only makes One High CRI light I can think of, and it has terrible tint rainbow (xp-g3 S1 Mini)

Maybe because the real cost of throwing things away is not being accounted for.

After unscrewing the head to reveal the charging port, I haven’t managed to keep the head centered (it constantly angles off to one side or another), and haven’t succeeded in getting the next threaded section to catch. It’s like the spring or something else prevents it.

Interesting note: the threads are entirely hidden and can’t be seen even after revealing the charging port. Aside from looking neater, it might keep the threads cleaner.

And yes, definitely low CRI.

Yeah have it turn on by accident and have that 10180 drain down to 0v a time or two

See how that works (hint for reviewers since u get free lights anyways)

Some comparative photos. Hopes this helps illustrate the differences. Olight i1R EOS has been on car key fob chain for 1 year. Olight i1R2 EOS is brand new.




Low mode comparison


High mode comparison

Interesting. Guess I just assumed all half decent companies/lights have that protection built in. Is it confirmed that there is no LVP in this light?

I will confirm that an extra half turn, or so, after it’s turned off is enough to make sure it can’t turn on by being pressed down, and still plenty secure to remain closed and probably water tight.

Bearbreeder I don’t see much risk of it turning on accidentally. I tried holding one end and rubbing the other end along clothing or floor carpeting as hard as I could, and it doesn’t rotate. And I don’t bother rotating much after it turns off, maybe just 1/8 of a turn.

xevious Thanks for the nice comparison pics! The scratched anodization isn’t as bad as I had feared, but still not great. It would be nice to see what clear anodization would look like. Too bad the new one has a colder color temperature.

nydude Someone earlier in this thread reported that Olight Australia confirmed it has LVP. My questions on how to verify this have gone unanswered.

I haven’t had any issues with accidental activation on my i1R EOS. There is a fair amount of travel after circuit is disconnected that doesn’t appear to compromise protection against dust & moisture ingress. The friction is “just right,” whereby it’s not a pain to turn, yet it’s snug enough not to accidentally rotate.

Also, this isn’t a high usage light. It’s meant for momentary use on occasion. As such, the longevity should be considerable. 10 years? Even then, the advances in miniaturization and LED efficiency will make it vastly obsolete. If you look at RovyVon, a company that specializes in miniature EDC flashlights, you’ll see they’ve just recently made an intentional design for proprietary battery replacement. That may eventually happen for the i1R. But all things considered, a 10 year lifespan isn’t “disposable”. Otherwise, we’d consider all electronics disposable simply because they eventually become obsolete.

You’re welcome. Yeah, it’s actually not that bad. It’s mostly caused by rubbing against the clasp that holds the light. If I used a plastic one, or coated the steel with some plastic, it would probably look much better. But again, it’s car key fob, not house keys… Surrounded by lots of metal, the body would surely get nicked up eventually, as does happen with all anodized flashlights over time. Some more resistant than others.

your assumption is just wishful thinking
without any supporting evidence
(a post by someone that says a salesman told them something, is NOT evidence, its hearsay)

Show me where it says in writing that the light has built in LVP, otherwise I would assume it does not.
Show me where it says in writing that the battery has built in LVP, otherwise I would assume it does not.

imo, very very very few lights have built in Low voltage protection

imo, only lights that DO have LVP will state that fact in writing

A twisty is less likely to turn on accidentally than a button switch

But i have had accidental turn ons before going back to the old AAA maglite

It happens, and if it does and there is no LVP …

Well time to take it apart and see if u can stuff another 10180 in there :wink:

When there’s no LVP (low voltage protection), don’t you witness significant dimming effect? Light will try to run until battery is completely exhausted? And if there’s LVP, it will cut out, not allow a lower output and simply stay shut off to protect the battery, correct? I have charged my i1R EOS perhaps 3 times. One time, it simply shut off while I was using it. It didn’t seem to dim. I then charged it up and it worked fine.
EDIT: I decided to conduct a test. I let the light run down. This time it began to dim. It did not exhibit LVP. The contact in mine is a little flaky. In the early days of ownership, I may have experienced that and misinterpreted it. It’s safe to say the i1R and i1R2 both lack LVP.