[Review] 77 Outdoors D25 Headlamp (18650)

Its a pity.
Yesterday I wanted to solder the Attiny from gchart. But I have Rev1 and it didn’t work.
Once I connect the battery it switches on at low level. After (not while) I pressed the switch it dimms down to lowes mode. And there is no way to make it brighter or switch it off.



Some Quotes for reference:

i’m glad i found this thread, i have several d10s and d25s, i know this thread is mostly about modding the driver, d25 seems to me is completely out of focus, i removed reflectors, and installed a poly window instead, turning it into a mule, works great, would be better if it was not so blue, but i can live with it, i think d10 is much better light, focuses right, does not heat up as much, needs no thermal regulation, with stock driver, and you can easy replace a led… but i have a question about the bracket itself, i lost mine, (actually i did not, my cat chewed it up) i tried one from ZL and skilhunt, the light can be forced it, but they flex, you can’t turn it so it stays in that position , not without 1 hand holding a bracket and another twisting the light, and they have no ability for light to be removed in half a second, as original does. anyone knows where to get spare? i’d 3d print one, if i could design a stl, i can adjust an stl file, but can’t make one from scratch. a can do a blueprint on paper easy.

Short of buying a new headlamp with a strap or using a generic rubber-ring strap, I’m not sure what to say :frowning:

I have a 3D printer as well and am pretty decent at design, but I just got rid of my D25 so I can’t measure dimensions.

this is my d25 mule.

if anyone needs spare reflectors i have 2.

in that case i have a business proposition for you, i’ll send you a brand new d25, i have one nib. (i got several, they make decent presents) would you be willing to make an stl, and post it here so anyone can download it, and print one if they need? make one with your name on it so everyone who prints knows who designed. brackets are identical for d10 d20 d25.

I’d be up for that, but if you have calipers, how about we call that Plan B?

If you can, take a couple good pics of the holder and a few dimensions (tube diameter, distance between, ring opening gaps, finger thickness, etc). I could take a stab or two with that and if worse came to worse, then pass one along :slight_smile:

Excellent. i’ll send you a caliper too. i think this will benefit many on this forum.
Now there are 2 types of holders, older one was holding better, newer one is loose, its grips are thinner, base portion of the old one had double curve, newer one is single, which is perfectly fine, after heating grips with a heat gun, (got to be careful not to overheat or they start bubbling, still works thou) and bending them in tiny bit, they hold as good as old one, if not better than old one, i may still have 1 old holder somewhere, if i do i’ll post pics so you can see the difference. we’ll probably better off opening new thread for that, once you get my package. pm me where to send it, and i’ll drop it off in a few days.
i like this design a lot better than silicone holder of ZL, or skilhant, and others, you can pop the light out in half a second, and just as fast put it in. ideally i’d like to replace my zl, and h02 holders with these. but will talk about it more in dedicated thread.

Woah, sorry… I meant if you have calipers, how about you just send me some measurements for now to see if we can get one created that way. I’ve got a decent set of calipers. I’m just looking for pics and dimensions :slight_smile:

I took all measurements, but not all are critical, as you see they made some parts thinner, and hollow, i guess to save on plastic, no need to do so in our case. also it is made of molded abs i assume, not sure if printed one will be just as strong, maybe some thin parts need to be thicker, idk.

oh and the radius of the bend, of the base is around 150mm, i compared it to a 1 foot diameter circle, curves match, but that isn’t critical dimension,

Maybe add a third loop/slit for optional over the top headbands? :slight_smile:

So… care to print this out and check? I’m sure I messed something up along the way, but it should make a decent first draft.

Re: a third-strap model… absolutely. Just after we get a working copy of the two-strap version.

wow, awesome. wish i had your skills, i will try to set up my printer tonight and test print it,

Thanks man. I got my first 3D printer (an Ender 3 Pro) back in July and have only dabbled in design since first getting it. But I like testing my skills and having a go on something functional is good practice for me. BTW, this was made in Fusion 360. Let me know how it goes!

It works!!! almost perfect, fits just right, sits firmly.

set up my cr10s last night that has been sitting for more than a year, and realized , i reinstalled windows, so my slicer is gone, installed cura 4.4, and realized i forgot pretty much everything, took me a while to figure basic settings, still did not figure most of them, thus you see stringing.

i used petg. to be honest that particular petg from e sun was always stringy before, but in any case holder works awesome, one thing thou, that tooth, that supposed work as a stop is too low, but grips hold the light so firm, it really is not necessary, but it was a bit longer, of entire light was deeper in, it would work, i guesstimate 1-1.5mm would be enough.(if too long it could always be filed down a bit) that is about the only change that could be done. i assume if printed from abs i’d need to adjust the scale in a slicer to compensate for shrinkage, like 0.5%?
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in any case awesome job, THANK YOU. now pm me where to send that brand new d25, as i promised.

Woah, I can’t believe I got that close on my first try. Great job on those measurements! PETG should hold up ok with the heat, and hopefully should be pretty strong… I don’t have any PETG yet but I’m hoping to get a roll or two for Christmas.

I think I’ll bring the “rings” backwards ~1.25 mm (bringing the headlamp back towards the arc). Also, it looks like perhaps the rings could be moved apart about 0.5mm each? While I’m in there, any other minor tweaks you can think of?

I really do appreciate the offer, but I’ll pass. I just shipped my D25 to a BLF member for a song, and I’ve got a nice TH20 and a few Convoy H1’s. To make use of any more headlamps, I’d need to turn into Medusa :wink:

you could move the rings apart too. seems like there is about .5mm room there, aa far as other tweaks, not really, maybe another version with wider base, for 35mm rubber band. if you feel like it, but otherwise this one is pretty much as good as it gets

i’m not sure i want to bother with abs, seeing how this one came out pretty good, petg supposed to be as strong and as heat resistant as abs, originally i wanted abs, but for first try i figured i do petg not to mes with acetone and stuff, but now i think i’ll abandon abs idea, maybe will get different petg, i heard esun isn’t the best brand out there.

Update (new files are at Thingiverse):

  • Grips/rings moved 1.25mm rearwards (closer to the arc)
  • Grips/rings moved 0.25mm further off center (so now a total of 38.5mm between them)
  • A 3-strap version added

PS - do you mind if I add this picture to the Thingiverse posting so that people can get a real-world visual?

don’t mind at all, use it anywhere you want, it is your design

Wow, great job all! Now who can make a copper dual MCPCB? I'm in for at least two!