I have an itch to dig into some lights with something more appropriate than a 30-40 year old Weller pencil and vintage radio Shack rosin core solder.
This will probably be used a few times a year, so I don’t need professional hard-duty gear, but I don’t want the cheapest stuff either. Solid quality at a not-stupid price is good for me.
I’m no looking to do any hardcore work - just adding USB-C resistors, building some programming keys, maybe changing out an LED or three, etc.
I need ideas for both the types of gear to look at, and suggestions for each.
- I’m pretty sure I do need a decent solder station, but I’m not sure if the extra cost of one with hot air or a standalone hot plate will add a lot of value.
In the realm of light modding what consumables and misc supplies do I not know I will want? Tweezers, solder types, flux types, etc? Tip cleaners? magnifying visor? Mad Scientist wig?
I’d like to jump right in, but realistically a few weeks delay is OK. I’m assuming that means buying from Ali and Banggood is my best bet?
You can get a TS100 from Bangood in USA for $49 and it is a professional grade beast. It makes short work of soldering to a MCPCB. I love mine. Then you just need solder and flux. I prefer leaded solder because it’s so easy to work with. Lead does not vaporize at soldering temps, so it’s safe.
I have a simple old fashion no frills that plugs into the 120v AC outlet and does a decent job of soldering that doesn't require much fineness.
Two days ago I removed the MCPCB from a flashlight that had the LED drop off.I've also bee some repairs on Christmas lighting.For both these projects I used a TS100 with various tips.I like working with the TS100.
It can be found on Amazon for a higher price unless you're in no rush and opt for a cheaper price on Banggood and Aliexpress.
This excellent thread started by Lexel is a good place to get some of that info:
I myself haven’t pulled the trigger on a better setup (new baby on the way and currently renovating our house, big merger at work in progress, and the holidays means no time, space, or money for this at the moment), but I have looked at the T12 stations that Lexel recommended and the TS100 Joshk recommends a few times.
The soldering iron I have now has a dial for temperature control, but no way to determine what temperature it is set to (goes from yellow to red instead of x to y degrees). It works for most things, but I suspect the tip should be replaced and the recommended ones are probably much better due to regulation and higher output.
I too prefer leaded solder. I haven’t mastered flux, but I hear good flux is huge. It sure makes a difference on sweating copper pipe…
A hot air station is probably more important when you are building drivers or (re)flowing LEDs than modding some resistors… but I think it would help with those programming keys (haven’t built mine yet). If it were me and I could only have one, it would be a good soldering iron over the hot air/plate/whatever. I’ve had good luck reflowing LEDs with a butane torch. I hold the MCPCB with pliers or better yet a vice and heat from below… I try to work fast and I stop applying heat when the solder melts so I don’t burn the mask.
I have one of those small butane torches. The soldering attachment for it is fairly useless, but it should be fine for heating up a MCPCB or pre-tinning wires.
The T100 looks to be about twice a expensive as the T12 clones from Lexel’s thread. Is that just because it’s small? Are spare tips about the same cost for each?
That sounds like what I have (Weller branded butane soldering iron/torch). I’ve soldered with it before, but the exhaust port for the flame makes me nervous with delicate electronics. I’ve mainly used it for automotive soldering or for stuff where I need to be mobile (installing speakers in office ceilings for example).
I think there is a greater variety and availability of tips for the T12’s… price might be similar. Between the two, I’d think the T12 is slightly better as the controller electronics are further from the heat, and as you pointed out, they are cheaper (though when I click those links, I see them at nearly the same price $40-$50 for the T12 on AE and$50 for the TS100 at BG). I think you’d have to buy an external power supply for the TS100 as well, and I’d recommend something to hold it when you need to set it down for a minute. It is smaller, but probably not enough smaller that it would be a real benefit unless you need to travel with it.
I recommend buying the kit with spare heater, will be able to fix the tool while another one is on the way if you mess up. The tool progressively cools down before fully turning off after you hit the switch, power must not be removed abruptly.
In my experience with it I recommend placing some bit of rubber material at the back of the handle base and gun stand so it stops moving due to vibrations (hot glue, for example).
I really like my Quicko 942 controller without the internal power supply. Cost me $24. Infinitely adjustibe up to 480C. I went from the 15W/30W dual power Radio Shack pencil iron. Thought I died and went to heaven. It uses Hakko T12 tips with the internal heater. Lots of functions it goes to sleep if I dont use it, auto powers off, has presets, etc. I pair it with a 19.5v 4.5 amp HP laptop power adapter for 90 watts and it heats up in 7-8 seconds and has a lot of power. I can solder to pills no issues and it laughs at 1.6mm mcpcb. I don’t like the ones with internal power supplies since they can be cheaply made and unsafe. Plus I can run it off 12 volts like a car battery or 3S lipo pack if needed. Just uses a 5.5mmx2.1mm barrel jack.
I should have a few spare laptop power supplies laying around. Worst case, I can make a barrel -> PowerPole cable and run it off the ham radio supplies I’m not using.
That price was from one of the sellers on Aliexpress around the middle of November.It was only there a day or 2 before it disappeared.After that $42 was the lowest and then $44.I was watch prices daily while I was looking for a 2nd TS100.I t think there was lower pricing pre black Friday pricing with the offered coupons.
Yah, you can get the Quicko or Ts100 from either place probably from the exact same sellers with different names. I like Ebay’s buyer protection much better since they are based in the USA not a free-for-all like AE or BG. Pricing is similar, but I’d pay extra for something from a reputable eBay seller. 99% minimum.
That really does mean nothing, nothing really good I mean. Most sellers I've dealt with in AliExpress did right, and when a problem has arisen I either have solved it with straightforward cooperation from the seller or fair dispute settlement by way of the AliExpress Case Management Team.
One could say it is good luck, but good luck is a consequence of right vibrations.
No Chinese power supplies sold from China are UL listed for the USA and have unbelievably cheap internal parts so I dont trust them. Use good quality ones like Dell, HP, Lenovo, etc. They’re cheap at the thrift stores.
