I have here both lights, plugged the programming key in just a minute ago, started Atmel Studio and flashed with Attiny25 command so it gives me error wrong MCU
I have flashed several drivers without any problems with the programming key, both all vias and with only 2 align viases
The design was changed to all viases after another programming key maker said to me when all pads are viases the flash proces is more reliable
The v3.1 key has mirror problem, so the leads need to be soldered not as marked on the key, did you check that?
The main goal is to have a key with aligned Pogo pins mine is not perfect but works
Yes. And with the same key/configuration I successfully flashed PL47, PL47G2, E01, E07, so I believe the same thing should work with ROT66G2 and LT1 directly. But it didn’t work.
I even soldered wires directly from those ROT66G2 programming viases to my USBASP programmer (so no key was involved) and tried again, however that didn’t work either.
I updated the original post with a runtime test for for step level 2. I also updated the charts above for step levels 4 and 3 to more accurately reflect what the relative lumens output is at each step. The steps levels is not a linear progression, for example, step 4 is not 80% of max, step 3 is not 60% of max, etc. This is done intentionally since our eye wouldn’t perceive the change in output as linear even if it was.
I was doing some work on the PL47 G2 and ROT66 G2 last night, and it took forever to get the ROT66 G2 to flash sometimes. I’m not sure why, but it worked pretty okay a few times and then failed, and it took hundreds of tries to get it to flash again. I was sure I had bricked it somehow, even though the fuse values weren’t touched.
So I’m wondering if maybe there’s still some sort of interaction with the aux LED board like what happened with the first few iterations of the aux LED boards. On the E07 I have to physically disconnect the aux LEDs before flashing firmware.
Eventually I got the ROT66 G2 to flash again, so it’s not bricked. It seemed to respond more often when using a 3.3V setting instead of 5V… but I’m not sure if that was actually relevant.
I haven’t had this issue on a LT1, but I still don’t have a production model.
I did try to disconnect the aux LED wires before flashing, but that still didn’t work either after so many times of trials…well, at least I’m not alone :weary:
Thanks for the corrections sbslider, dealgrabber2002, and raccoon city, I’ve updated the review to correct the spelling mistakes and blinking behavior.
Also, the manual says the LEDs are 2700K and 5000K, not 3000K and 4000K like I originally wrote which I have updated in the review as well.
While the LT1 is on, 5H clicks (not releasing the 5th click, but hold) sets it to manual memory, or where it was last turned off. This is the default. 5C (just 5 clicks) from on sets it to auto memory, where it turns on at the level it was at when you set auto memory.
His measurements were close to that i was getting too when i was testing the amp loads. (with the 5-AMCs default per channel) 6 lumens average seems to be about that output on the lowest of the stepped ramp setting.
correct, there are two extra bridges for enabling up to 7 of the AMC regulator chips for each channel of the tint ramp, (meaning it is even possible to have a lower maximum output on one channel than the other, ( as in a brighter 5000K N/W end and a dimmer maximum 2700K W/W ramp end, or have both equal to increase the total outputs (but loose some run time) I believe Lexel mentioned the varisistor (adjustable resistor as some control of the side switch glow operation, (which has its own mode selections from low, high, candle flicker, off, etc.