I have been on eBay since 2000 and it’s changed a lot in 19 years. I was on before anyone knew you could order stuff directly from China, back when you could get a parts kit for a 1911 handgun or Glock slide and barrel or an automatic knife.
Buy carefully and you’ll probably be fine. Pay extra for shipping if offered.
Off-topic:
Yep, it’s absolutely changed. I began buying and selling stuff like used music CD’s and film cameras on eBay in early ’98 and, as you’ll remember, the only option back then was “Auction”; none of this “Buy It Now” or “Best Offer” nonsense 
. IIRC, they didn’t register the eBay.com domain until the end of ’97 and my friend found it sometime that winter. I’m still the same 4-digit username as then, but I was forced to come up with something that wasn’t a standard name , so I’m “kank”, which was an inside joke between my friend and I at the time.
Since I don’t buy stuff from China via eBay and only did so a few times (and got burned most of those times), I largely use eBay like I always have. I don’t enjoy the auction process as much as back then, but I still buy used equipment that way sometimes.
Yes, ebay is due for an overhaul to better compete with Amazon. And their auctions are guaranteed disappointment these days.
OK - I think I’m getting closer to a purchase. The hot air gun Barkuti posted looks quite attractive and not excessively expensive. I’m just not sure if it will be a Step One or a Step One-and-a-Half purchase.
The TS100 looks nice, but it’s a bit more expensive and it looks like the tips are a bit longer between grip and work surface. My hands are not as steady as they once were, so the long shaft doesn’t really appeal to me.
The KSGER line looks nice. I really like using a standard PC power cord, but the comment about cheap Chinese power supplies has be questioning it.
The Quicko looks nice too. The DC in has me thinking that I can use some 2S battery packs I got for a portable HAM radio project, a laptop power brick, or, well, anything. I don’t like that it requires a particular power source, but for under $30 it’s hard to turn down.
For the purposes I listed in the first post, what tips should I be looking at? I know to look for lead solder. Any particular type of flux or solder paste? Tip cleaners?
I hope you like whatever you choose. If it helps, I measured and the TS100 is 2.75” from plastic handle to the tip of the tip.
Only 2.75”?
They must be using marketing pictures with tiny Asian hands, as it sure looked long in comparison. 
Any idea how far the T12 tips extend past the handle?
I’ve had 3 tips, but not the T12. I am pretty sure they are all the exact same length. I think D24 is the one I have pictured. It’s the only one I ever use anymore. It has a large side for large jobs, and some nice small corners for small work.
Sorry - I meant the Hakko T12 clone type inserts like the KSGER and Quicko use, not a specific tip design.
Ah, Hakko T12. Sorry, never owned one. Maybe someone here could measure theirs?
The T12 tips are universal between the KSGER, Quicko, and the Hakko designed for T12 tips.
That’s what I thought.
Can anyone tell me how far past the grip a T12 tip usually extends? (in comparison to the TS100 tip at 2.75” posted earlier)
Get genuine Hakko tips. Most of the clones are crap.
About 4” past the handpiece grip.
I second getting good quality tips. I’ve been using the clones and the one that came with my Quicko is still working great. I heard to avoid the KSGER ones though…
About 4” is a guess or a measurement?
Hmmm… so if the tip of the T12 models is about 4” past the insulated grip, and the TS100 tip is about 2.75” past the grip. That’s making me think the TS100 would be a more stable tool for detail work.
I like the longer tip since I can get into places without dealing with the handle getting in the way. Plus, only about the last 1.5 inches of the tip is hot enough to damage plastic (or fingers) if you’re butterfingers like I am.
If you choose your tip carefully, the longer reach is nice. I looked at the TS100 long and hard before I chose the Quicko based on the same performance, better tip selection, separate controller and handpiece (if I ever break it, replacement is cheap, plus there’s aftermarket ones) and the larger display with the encoder knob.
Either one are a huge upgrade over the fixed temp pencil.
Who would want bulky controller sitting on their workbench? Or dangling from your hand while on the ladder connecting LED strip in the bedroom? 
…interesting visual…I think I’d do something other than solder if it came to that, but definitely go with a butane for that use! Also handy for low voltage outdoor lighting wires and the heat-shrink tubing.
I used to have one of those butane things. Until the attachment fell off while hot and burned my floor. That could have been my leg! Metal expands and softens just enough when red hot to loosen it’s grip to the butane part.
The controller is pretty small, about the same size as a twinkie. I can’t say I’ve tried that before, but a solder gun with an extension cord is the right tool for that job. Mmm I could go for a twinkie now
What about the weight of the extension cord? Wrap it around your neck before climbing the ladder? Bad idea.
I used mine + a battery in my pocket to solder my LED strip in the bedroom. It was the perfect tool for the job. And another day I used it out at the mailbox for a sensor. It’s just awesome.