That 9 LED ones will most likely run unregulated with 3*AAA batteries. Iām not sure if I can recommend those.
They all run direct drive form 3x AAA in stock form.
So they need drivers, or at least some 7135 current regulators.
I used 12x 3400K rngwn leds to mod a Singfire 812A.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1611602
It is old stock, it seems they have not sold them for a couple of years, there was rust on the spring and even inside some of the 5mm leds was corrosion so their warehouse conditions are not optimal.
Nevertheless the build quality is a few grades up from what I can buy in the local stores for two euroās:
*the ano seems really nice, not cheap at all
*the switch is press-fit but easy to disassemble (I swapped the black 16mm boot cap for a better quality orange one, soldered the loose spring to the switch-lip and made the press-fit a lot stiffer with a solder blob on the other switch-lip that presses against the housing).
*the head assembly is not press-fit but closes on the inside with an actual screwed-in retaining ring (I made two grooves with a saw in the ring to ease opening and closing, and there was no o-ring at the (plastic) lens so I added a nice orange one to match the boot cap, the rest of the light is o-ringed so now the light is submersible)
Then I swapped the 12 395nm leds for 3400K 95CRI leds and that was that.
With 3 AAA alkalines (one was not even full) I just measured 113 lumen so the leds are properly driven at ~30mA each. Tint out the front in the hotspot: CCT=3170K, duv=ā0.0025, CRI=97.3, R9=85, R12=92, Rf=94.3, R9=102.6. The beam is a smooth flood.
Yes, there should be several available on eBay that are similar, but I got mine from Clas Ohlson (swedish hardware store) Link to the lantern.
The frosted glass is from another lantern bought at a local hardware store, one of those flickering flame ones. I didnāt like the color and animation of it so Iāve used it for parts.
I have modded the 9 LED 3aaa flashlight to add a 7135 regulator. The 7135 + & - pins will straddle the traces on the LED mounting board. remove the center pin and solder a wire from center tab to feed spring. ā¦now isolate the spring where it normally contacts the outer trace on the board. I added insulator then glued it to the board. (My favorite shoe goo for that!)
Nice. :sunglasses:
I have one of those 12 LED ones too, and a silver one which is a bit different, but both have screw on heads.
The black one is about 10cm tall.
This means that is is possible to use an unprotected 21700 and a tail-stand-able tail switch, if you superglue the spring directly on the back of a small Omten and use a switch boot without a nub, and epoxy it all in the tail cap. 
A single 7135 on the back of the LED board would be enough (29.2 mA per LED).
Iām gonna order one of those super crappy yellow plastic 9 LED ones too, just for fun. 
I modded a few 2-AA and 3-AA small Hurricane LED lanterns like that with generic WW LEDs, but these 2300K 5mm LEDs are high CRI and much closer to a real flame tint. I also found a bunch of small 2-AA ones at a local dollar store to mod too. (photos and mod topic eventually coming.)
Iāve searched local and online hardware stores in Norway for 5mm hurricane lanterns, Iāve only found the one I modded that has 2xD batteries. I donāt mind the D batteries since they last a good while, but it would be nice to use some Ni-Mh AA since Iāve got loads of them.
Iāll keep on searching though, would be nice with something smaller and more compact. Iām also scavenging eBay and AliExpress.
The big issue with using the NiMH AA cells as 2S, is their nominal voltage is two low, ad below the forward voltage of the LEDs. (for NiMH you need to use 3-series with a 47 ohm 1/4 watt resistor to get the correct output. 2AA Alkaline cells have a higher voltage and can run a LED without a driver, (i use a simple 7.5 ohm resistor in series with the LED for running 2 alkaline or ZincCarbon cells.
Is anyone in the US who has received theirs able to post how long they took to arrive?
Mine have been listed as sitting at āSUVARNABHUMI MAIL CENTREā for almost 3 weeks now.
Now that you mentioned it, there are some people who has already received the package despite itās being shipped later.
Itās probably time for me to start a formal investigation with the post office.
One thing to note is that Thailand Post usually send the mail to two different U.S. airports; one in New York and another in Los Angeles. As of now, the mail that moves fast are the ones that appears in NY.
Thereās a possibility that the LAX is jammed with packages those packages are the ones waiting to be scanned as āProcessed Through Facilityā.
Nonetheless, I will start launching an investigation.
Mine was shipped Dec 12 and I still havenāt received it in NY. My last shipment took about 2 weeks as I remember. Iām not too worried about it, as I also think the volume of shipping this time of year may be delaying things a little.
Edit:Just went to the mailbox and they are here! Thanks rngwn!
Still havenāt got them hereā¦
If Iām dealing with lost shipments for that whole 1 Dec batch then itās going to cost me dearly 
I think they will arrive eventually.
Itās the end of the year, millions of packages are shipped, normally takes 1 to 2 months, weāre at 23 days since i paid you.
I did receive the 4000K 16-die led last week, which was really quick, so not all packages are on hold, some slip through.
Same from dec 12 order date. Hopefully itās just some USPS congestion during the holidays.
Thank you for looking into this. LAX is definitely a possibility - Iāve had shipments held up there before. It also seems quite possible Thai post is overwhelmed, as well.
Fortunately, Iāve got time to wait and see if my tracking number starts to see movement. I was going to put make small gifts to nephews with some of these, but fortunately, Iāve still got some Yujiās to spare.
It turns out 3 x alkaline button cells produces a lot more current than lithium coin cells.
I found a cheap 5-pack of āBuck Lightsā on Amazon that seemed like a good choice for kids because they are momentary only (canāt be accidentally left on), and the cases screw together, so it should be extremely unlikely theyād be able to open the light and risk swallowing the batteries.
I was surprised how bright they are, so I put a multimeter on them and measured 90mA. This is pretty hard overdriven, but in short bursts, they should not overheat, and the voltage sag dropped that by about 10mA in the first 10 seconds alone, which will likely help prevent harm to the emitter.
A new CR2032 with a Yuji produced only 14 mA (which I find a really good level for finding things in my car).
rngwnās emitters should be even brighter on alkaline button cells than the Yujiās, including those Mateminco bullet lights
I think the lights I have use LR41 cells, but I didnāt check the dimensions when I had them open.
Tip:
http://kaidomain.com/S028538-UV1-365nm-1-Mode-Stainless-Steel-UV-Flashlight-1xAAA?page=2
I did not make pictures of the mod but this is a pretty nice host for 5mm leds. A small description: the bezel is press-fit, work it out by prying with a sharp knife between bezel and body. Inside you will find a great little convex-convex lens and under it a plastic holder that retains a small circuit board and a 5mm (UV) led.
Replacing that led with your favourite 5mm led is not just a matter of unsoldering/soldering because the stock UV-led has a very narrow emission angle and probably your replacement led needs to sit closer to the lens to prevent light loss and obtain a good beam. But the plastic holder has a rim on the inside that holds the led at a fixed distance from the lens. So that rim needs to be reamed until your led can be slided through the hole towards the lens. Then, outside the flashlight, light your bare replacement led with a led tester and hold the loose lens in front of it at a distance that gives an optimal nice beam, precisely measure that distance. Then bend and solder the led onto the circuit board sticking out so far out of the board that your measured distance is met upon assembling the lens/plasticholder/circuitboard combination.
Pictures tell a thousand words but unfortunately I donāt have any. But it is easy to see what needs happening when you have the flashlight before you. It is an easy mod.
I used a rngwn 2300K led and chose a beam with the die projected by the lens just out of focus, so it is quite throwy compared to the bare 5mm led. It has a tint shift from 2700K in the center to 2100K near the edge (so getting pretty orange there) but because of the great tint and CRI that actually looks rather attractive. The current from the battery is 122mA (so about 40mA through the led after boosting) and the output is 10.5 lumen, which sounds worse than it is because the light is more concentrated than any bare 5mm led.