Not to me, it isn’t.
That’s going to be a fairly ‘cool’ tint, and I much prefer warmer tints in the <\ 4000k range. Also, many CRI (color rendering index) ratings today are in the high 90s.
Now it’s true that a high CRI is not absolutely essential in a good light, but an icy cool blue/white tint does not appeal to me at all any more. In principal I like this light a lot, and if it had a warmer emitter I’d be all over it. As it is, I’m going to pass.
Thank you for the response.
From what little I understand a higher tint temperature is supposed to mean higher output. But according to what was posted above, the SP33 V3 does not make its 3500 lumens rating.
Don’t let ‘output numbers’ lead you astray. They’re just numbers - and yes, cooler emitter temperatures do boast marginally higher numbers - but the overall usefulness of a light is judged by a lot more than an extra hundred lumens here or there. I can guarantee you’ll never be able to tell the difference between 1,000 lumens and 1,100 lumens with your naked eye.
It’s a bit like saying that a street rod will go 10 km./hr faster than a Mercedes. It might, but that doesn’t necessarily make it a better car overall.
If you spend any amount of money on cool emitters for the simple reason of higher lumen numbers, it would be wise to brush up on your modding skills, because you’ll probably be swapping them out before long. That’s where a lot of us began……me included.
I smile a bit when I read some posts on this forum debating the merits and faults of the range of Kelvin temperature LEDs in modern flashlights.
My youth was in the age of Lincoln Logs,Erector Sets,Gilbert Chemistry Sets and an olive drab boy scout flashlight that housed 2 Everready D batteries(notorious leakers).I like modern LED flashlights
Yes,the light's K temperature on an object will render observed color differently but of no concern when only adequate lighting is needed to find something in darkness or illuminate the path.
My SP33v3 with ShockLi 26650 5500mAhdoesn't appear to be too cool but that's only my novice opinion.My Nitecore EA41(2015)had a very easy to see cool blue tint but served it's purpose well until the copper tops leaked in it and it no longer functions.I'd like to rebuild it but for lack of knowledge.
I find the moonlight mode in flashlights useless but stepped low,medium,high and turbo quite useful.I'm on the fence with other functions.
Ah, erector sets. I’m in agreement with you on ML or FF mode. At my age , the more light the better. 
And during the day, those very low modes make you look at the led to make sure it is not on before setting it down or putting it back in your pocket. They should be like turbo or strobe, not in the main cycle.
Added test results for all modes. Here goes:
Moonlight
Output: 2 lumens
CCT: 5292K
DUV: 0.0158
Ra (CRI): 68.1
Low mode
Output: 84 lumens
CCT: 6299K
DUV: 0.0035
Ra (CRI): 66.7
Mid mode
Output: 307 lumens
CCT: 6613K
DUV: 0.0008
Ra (CRI): 67.2
High mode
Output: 1277 lumens
CCT: 6740K
DUV: –0.0003
Ra (CRI): 67.4
I’m not a fan of CW but it is not very blue like the cheap Amazon and Aliexpress lights. It’s pretty good for gift lights because the UI is so simple.
I wish they made a 6V or 12V version with USB-C because you can mod those with some good tinted XHP70 emitters from Kaidomain
Thanks again!
The measured values diverge quite a bit from the official specs:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1I_35e3aw3pNoMosh00ja-ZDvaW-3BtJE
Is it typical for CCT to vary so much, particularly that moonlight value? Is there any indication of the tint bin, if any? http://flashlightwiki.com/images/c/cb/Ansi-white.jpg
I haven’t seen it in person yet, but I’m thinking the CRI is the weakest point. I really didn’t think I would care much about CRI, but after seeing the SST-20, I find myself slightly irritated by the hazy look of lower CRI light.
Yes it is very normal for CCT and tint (DUV) to vary that much. In fact this light is one of the more consistent ones except for the moonlight mode.
My TA light tube is calibrated with Maukka lights but I seem to be measuring on the low end of everyone with the same setup. The only manufacturers that I consistently measure higher than their official rating are Olight and Fenix. Emisar is “usually” pretty spot on and sometimes higher or lower. All other manufacturers including Acebeam, Zebralight, Thrunite, Sofirn, etc. “usually” measure lower in my lumen tube than what they spec.
Thank you for the responses.
I think I will pass on this light. The tint seems cold and the CRI is low. From what I have read on here this is not ideal. Also it does not seem to meet specifications.
I have zero buyer's remorse!
I very happy I purchased an SP33v3!
It's only a $30 flashlight/ w battery and serves it's intended purpose well.
Time will tell how it holds up doing it's thing.
Comparing beamshots of Sofirn SP33 v2 vs SP33 v3.0:
Comparing beamshots from Astrolux EC01 and Sofirn SP33 v3.0
(comment: on Turbo/max brightness, they look identical)
comparing the Sofirn SP33 v3.0 with BLF D80v2 with XHP50.2 LED
(comment: the BLF D80v2 XHP50.2 is more throwy)
I received my SP 33 V3 yesterday after a long wait.
When I first took it out the package I was wondering how heavy the flashlight was. Then I unscrewed the tailcap just to find a Sofirn labeled 26650 cell in there. The black one with 5500mAh printed on. (Flashlight ordered on Banggood)
The looks of the flashlight are better to me in person than on the pictures. Looks and feels good (very good grip)!
The beam is not pleasing to be honest - but it’s okay. Brightness is fine, probably under 3500lm as stated before. U.I. is super simple and the switch feels good.
I tested the Sofirn 26650 cell and it seems to be a fine one.
Internal resistance about 0,23mOhm
Capacity test showed me 5430mAh
Greetings
I received my SP33v3 with the Sofirn 5500mAh battery also.
I charged it up to 4.2 volts and did a discharge capacity test with cutoff set at 2.5 volts resulting in a 5563mAh result.
I've since received a pair of ShockLi 5500mAh that that test at over 6000mAh.
Capacity tests will vary depending on the test instrument,starting and ending voltage.
Charging capacity vs discharge capacity tests.
I removed the bezel and took out the lens to see if the throw was any different....not much.
I used it last night for a long walk and a stop at the mail box.I figure it serves it's intended purpose without breaking the bank.
I had been using a Sofirn SF11 that's bulkier and heavier and a Convoy S2+.I find the SP33v3 to be an easy carry.
Just from a brightness point of view, the V2 puts out about 2,200 lm.
Well filed a dispute today. Bought from ali store and my messages were unanswered for 3 weeks. Status was shipment cancelled. Tried contacting Sofirn via many ways. Got two answers saying that they dont run the aliexpress store and thats it. I never got my SP33v3. Was really looking forward to this light. But no I will probably never spend a dime to Sofirns direction. Atrocious customer service!
Found a review of the SP33 v2.0 on Zeroair and shocked at how VERY efficient it is. The driver efficiency is on the level of Olight, Fenix, Nitecore, and Zebralight! Wow
Sofirn should continue to sell v2.0 alongside v3.0 because some people would prefer the super efficient driver and perfect regulation.
Have a SP33v2, swapped emitter w/ 5000ºK (damaged led in transit). Best budget light for sustained high. Great UI - low/med/high w/double click for temporary turbo. Long press from off for Moonlight (~ 10 lumens), just right for a evening walk.
My SP33v2 loses turbo at a little above 4 volts. At what voltage do you lose turbo?
I lose mine at 3.70 volts. Dirty connections can have an effect. Boost drivers need as much voltage as possible so you want to make sure the circuits are clean with no extra resistance.
Have you seen the springs in the v2 ?
They should be bypassed.
They’re like 8 cm of iron wire each…
