Just got mine today and am having trouble getting to the sub modes and smooth transitioning doesn’t seem to be any different than normal transitioning. Am I missing something? Did anyone else have any of these issues?
In fact, this feature was added on purpose. During the tests was found a different response of the AMC7138 to the high frequency of moonlight (depending on the batches). So, in addition to the three high frequency-moonlights (5kHz), was added two low frequency moonlights (1kHz and 500Hz), just in case. On some batches of 7138 this will allow a lower brightness of moonlight .
Therefore, you can use one of the three high-frequency moonlight without inconvenience.
Can’t figure out how to change the moonlight mode from the default 6lm to another level.
Press “red” button 20x when OFF to enter hidden pro access
enter moonlight mode
wait 2-3s
press hold “white” button suppose to cycle through different sub-mode, but instead it just cycle between low/med/high
Not sure what I’m doing wrong
—-
Figured it out.
Printed instruction sheet said to only “press-and-hold the white button” for cycling submode which is wrong. The PDF online instruction said to “Click + press-and-hold the white button”. So you are suppose to click once and quickly click/hold.
Printed instruction sheet said to only “press-and-hold the white button” for cycling submode which is wrong. The PDF online instruction said to “Click + press-and-hold the white button”. So you are suppose to click once and quickly click/hold.
Hmm… Actually the printed manual says nothing about submode
The submodes are described only in online instruction.
Printed instruction sheet said to only “press-and-hold the white button” for cycling submode which is wrong. The PDF online instruction said to “Click + press-and-hold the white button”. So you are suppose to click once and quickly click/hold.
Hmm… Actually the printed manual says nothing about submode
The submodes are described only in online instruction.
You are right, it turned out that some boxes contained both short and long manuals. And really there were some mistakes in the long manuals.
Pls, look up correct information in the online-manual.
Read that maybe SKILHUNT Headband can be used like alternative. (flashlight diameter 22mm and distance between ring places 44mm)
I agree with fnksb’s suggestion, putting the strap inside the rings makes it much more comfortable. It also takes all of the strain off of the strap slots in the silicone.
I’ve currently got my Panda in a cheap ($3) camo headband with dark green silicone (no top strap). (The same ones Simon sells in the Convoy store.) It fits surprisingly well considering how close together the rings are. It holds it’s tilt well because the rings are tight and sit sort of diagonally across the lamp body. So I think most silicone holders will work.
2 things to note;
1) my holder was pre stretched from use with an 18650 zoomy and was easy to put on but still holds tight,
2) my original camo strap was very worn and stretched and has been replaced with a slightly stiffer elastic which reduces bounce on the forehead. My elastic is threaded inside the loops which also helps with stability.
I will try to add pictures to better show what I mean, but I’m super busy at the moment so don’t hold your breath.
Yes Narsil! I’m a buyer then!
Thank you fnksb for suggestion.
Read that maybe SKILHUNT Headband can be used like alternative. (flashlight diameter 22mm and distance between ring places 44mm)
Order placed. Thanks maukaa for the great review and thanks fnksb for the coupon code
Just got mine today and am having trouble getting to the sub modes and smooth transitioning doesn’t seem to be any different than normal transitioning. Am I missing something? Did anyone else have any of these issues?
I think the downloadable manual will be of help:
http://ylplight.com/attachments/get/34/panda-2-cri-um.pdf
Smooth transition doesn’t mean ramping, just barely noticeable smoother transition between modes like on some small Olights.
So, do you guys think the PWM issues have been fixed?
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
On moonlight modes.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
In fact, this feature was added on purpose. During the tests was found a different response of the AMC7138 to the high frequency of moonlight (depending on the batches). So, in addition to the three high frequency-moonlights (5kHz), was added two low frequency moonlights (1kHz and 500Hz), just in case. On some batches of 7138 this will allow a lower brightness of moonlight .
Therefore, you can use one of the three high-frequency moonlight without inconvenience.
Ah ok.
Thank you a lot.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Can’t figure out how to change the moonlight mode from the default 6lm to another level.
Not sure what I’m doing wrong
—-
Figured it out.
Printed instruction sheet said to only “press-and-hold the white button” for cycling submode which is wrong. The PDF online instruction said to “Click + press-and-hold the white button”. So you are suppose to click once and quickly click/hold.
The submodes are described only in online instruction.
https://i.imgur.com/QxY3mm1.jpg
I got two sheets of instructions
Pls, look up correct information in the online-manual.
Great review, ordered one to try out.
Emisar d1s 3a. ZL sc700d,sc64w hi,H600c,Streamlight tlr1-hl, Astrolux mfo1s 4k/purple. Olight I3t Eos black. Ylp 2m cri.ZL sc64le, k1 xhp35 hi in 4k.
Why are both lens frosted/diffused? I wish it has one that’s frosted and one clear for throw.
I agree with fnksb’s suggestion, putting the strap inside the rings makes it much more comfortable. It also takes all of the strain off of the strap slots in the silicone.
I’ve currently got my Panda in a cheap ($3) camo headband with dark green silicone (no top strap). (The same ones Simon sells in the Convoy store.) It fits surprisingly well considering how close together the rings are. It holds it’s tilt well because the rings are tight and sit sort of diagonally across the lamp body. So I think most silicone holders will work.
2 things to note;
1) my holder was pre stretched from use with an 18650 zoomy and was easy to put on but still holds tight,
2) my original camo strap was very worn and stretched and has been replaced with a slightly stiffer elastic which reduces bounce on the forehead. My elastic is threaded inside the loops which also helps with stability.
I will try to add pictures to better show what I mean, but I’m super busy at the moment so don’t hold your breath.
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