Ah, erector sets. I’m in agreement with you on ML or FF mode. At my age , the more light the better. 
And during the day, those very low modes make you look at the led to make sure it is not on before setting it down or putting it back in your pocket. They should be like turbo or strobe, not in the main cycle.
Added test results for all modes. Here goes:
Moonlight
Output: 2 lumens
CCT: 5292K
DUV: 0.0158
Ra (CRI): 68.1
Low mode
Output: 84 lumens
CCT: 6299K
DUV: 0.0035
Ra (CRI): 66.7
Mid mode
Output: 307 lumens
CCT: 6613K
DUV: 0.0008
Ra (CRI): 67.2
High mode
Output: 1277 lumens
CCT: 6740K
DUV: –0.0003
Ra (CRI): 67.4
I’m not a fan of CW but it is not very blue like the cheap Amazon and Aliexpress lights. It’s pretty good for gift lights because the UI is so simple.
I wish they made a 6V or 12V version with USB-C because you can mod those with some good tinted XHP70 emitters from Kaidomain
Thanks again!
The measured values diverge quite a bit from the official specs:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1I_35e3aw3pNoMosh00ja-ZDvaW-3BtJE
Is it typical for CCT to vary so much, particularly that moonlight value? Is there any indication of the tint bin, if any? http://flashlightwiki.com/images/c/cb/Ansi-white.jpg
I haven’t seen it in person yet, but I’m thinking the CRI is the weakest point. I really didn’t think I would care much about CRI, but after seeing the SST-20, I find myself slightly irritated by the hazy look of lower CRI light.
Yes it is very normal for CCT and tint (DUV) to vary that much. In fact this light is one of the more consistent ones except for the moonlight mode.
My TA light tube is calibrated with Maukka lights but I seem to be measuring on the low end of everyone with the same setup. The only manufacturers that I consistently measure higher than their official rating are Olight and Fenix. Emisar is “usually” pretty spot on and sometimes higher or lower. All other manufacturers including Acebeam, Zebralight, Thrunite, Sofirn, etc. “usually” measure lower in my lumen tube than what they spec.
Thank you for the responses.
I think I will pass on this light. The tint seems cold and the CRI is low. From what I have read on here this is not ideal. Also it does not seem to meet specifications.
I have zero buyer's remorse!
I very happy I purchased an SP33v3!
It's only a $30 flashlight/ w battery and serves it's intended purpose well.
Time will tell how it holds up doing it's thing.
Comparing beamshots of Sofirn SP33 v2 vs SP33 v3.0:
Comparing beamshots from Astrolux EC01 and Sofirn SP33 v3.0
(comment: on Turbo/max brightness, they look identical)
comparing the Sofirn SP33 v3.0 with BLF D80v2 with XHP50.2 LED
(comment: the BLF D80v2 XHP50.2 is more throwy)
I received my SP 33 V3 yesterday after a long wait.
When I first took it out the package I was wondering how heavy the flashlight was. Then I unscrewed the tailcap just to find a Sofirn labeled 26650 cell in there. The black one with 5500mAh printed on. (Flashlight ordered on Banggood)
The looks of the flashlight are better to me in person than on the pictures. Looks and feels good (very good grip)!
The beam is not pleasing to be honest - but it’s okay. Brightness is fine, probably under 3500lm as stated before. U.I. is super simple and the switch feels good.
I tested the Sofirn 26650 cell and it seems to be a fine one.
Internal resistance about 0,23mOhm
Capacity test showed me 5430mAh
Greetings
I received my SP33v3 with the Sofirn 5500mAh battery also.
I charged it up to 4.2 volts and did a discharge capacity test with cutoff set at 2.5 volts resulting in a 5563mAh result.
I've since received a pair of ShockLi 5500mAh that that test at over 6000mAh.
Capacity tests will vary depending on the test instrument,starting and ending voltage.
Charging capacity vs discharge capacity tests.
I removed the bezel and took out the lens to see if the throw was any different....not much.
I used it last night for a long walk and a stop at the mail box.I figure it serves it's intended purpose without breaking the bank.
I had been using a Sofirn SF11 that's bulkier and heavier and a Convoy S2+.I find the SP33v3 to be an easy carry.
Just from a brightness point of view, the V2 puts out about 2,200 lm.
Well filed a dispute today. Bought from ali store and my messages were unanswered for 3 weeks. Status was shipment cancelled. Tried contacting Sofirn via many ways. Got two answers saying that they dont run the aliexpress store and thats it. I never got my SP33v3. Was really looking forward to this light. But no I will probably never spend a dime to Sofirns direction. Atrocious customer service!
Found a review of the SP33 v2.0 on Zeroair and shocked at how VERY efficient it is. The driver efficiency is on the level of Olight, Fenix, Nitecore, and Zebralight! Wow
Sofirn should continue to sell v2.0 alongside v3.0 because some people would prefer the super efficient driver and perfect regulation.
Have a SP33v2, swapped emitter w/ 5000ºK (damaged led in transit). Best budget light for sustained high. Great UI - low/med/high w/double click for temporary turbo. Long press from off for Moonlight (~ 10 lumens), just right for a evening walk.
My SP33v2 loses turbo at a little above 4 volts. At what voltage do you lose turbo?
I lose mine at 3.70 volts. Dirty connections can have an effect. Boost drivers need as much voltage as possible so you want to make sure the circuits are clean with no extra resistance.
Have you seen the springs in the v2 ?
They should be bypassed.
They’re like 8 cm of iron wire each…
Done all that Jason. Only thing left I haven’t tried are spring bypasses. My driver just seems to lose turbo early. Wondering if I am the only one.
I added a very thin ring to the head / body as to align the ‘make’ and sometimes I couldn’t get to turbo. Have to unscrew /rescrew the head tight.
Yes, my review.
You have the driver ring, both battery tube ends, the tail cap to battery tube area, pop the spring out and clean the pocket, clean the spring, clean the battery ends. I think that’s all.
Have you tried different batteries? I’m not certain, but battery voltage sag might play a part. I use the Shockli 5500mah as well as Aspire 4300. The Shockli seems to work better since the amp draw is not that big at 6A.
I have not had a reason to bypass my springs, but that’s something you might consider. It might give you longer cumulative Turbo runtime.
Although you might already tried it. I’ve had so many lights that loses turbo shortly or immediately and it is fixed after washing the tube and head with detergent and cleaning the head spring or contact with rubbing alcohol. I’ve had many lights including Thrunites that had black grime on contacts that require much rubbing with finger nail to remove. Fixes turbo problems and low output almost every time.