In either case, it may be useful to have a raised line on both the ring and the light body that aligns when the light is off, to help with tactile operation. Kind of like the little bumps on the J and F keys. Just an idea that would be cool for flashaholics and make no difference either way for someone who doesn’t care.
This i.m.o. still looks like the most natural interface, ergonomically speaking:
The travel of these sliders is usually very short though, probably for technical reasons or to keep it simple and cheap to produce.
But the shape is good too, but more ‘manly’ than the previous one.
Not sure about the blue stuff, but this body color also looks nice.
Add a clip and it won’t roll off the table.
It shouldn’t be, though, because it too works with a magnet in the slider outside and a hall sensor inside.
But i also read here and there that these lights, which are usually quite cheaply made, have some waterproof problems.
They all have visible PWM dimming too, which is why i never bought one.
Would like to propose a practical fix to the min lumens controversy; geared to hopefully satisfy everyone; and I mean everyone.
On/Off plus Momentary On/ Momentary Off; via tactile push switch.
Twist-ring brightness control with 4 or more detent steps.
PCB has grid of marked pads to set jumper option(s).
Light ships in its stock configuration with brightness levels and range which are those deemed as best suited for the needs or abilities of original target audience.
BLF Nuts so disposed can open and mod to their preferred pro-configuration easily by soldering in a well-defined marked jumper link. Thus access sub-lumen/lumen moon and/or enhanced high lumens range.
The above scheme has the advantages that:
Versatility generates extra interest/buzz around the light.
Markets it to a wider population.
Good for BLF as it serves as a very gentle intro into modding.
Personally; I’d like to have levels spanning between eicca’s stated 1 lumen or less —-> blast grandma into orbit /what’s safe thermally. Two or more in-between steps such as low and high with all modes spaced on log basis.
I have a nitecore hc60 (I think that’s the model) with a slider for it’s only control. Works wonderfully, but it has 2 problems:
high parasitic drain which means you have to manually lock it out by loosening the tailcap any time its unsupervised in a bag or pocket because:
it is very easy to move it from off to on and I always find it in some position other than off. It has a detent, but no lock. It needs a feature that requires you to push down to move from off.
It’d probably be more cost effective to load it with a scaled-down Anduril UI if it were to be built with a config switching system. Twist the ring off to on five times or something to toggle between 10-300ish range and 0.1-9,000 range or whatever.
I understand the objection to a sub-lumen moonlight where there are a small number of fixed modes, even though it’s a feature I like to see on most lights (I do not care about it on dedicated throwers or large multicell lights). If, on the other hand it’s possible to have continuous dimming then I favor going as low as the hardware can do reliably. If it’s not bright enough, just twist the ring farther.
Is there a reason why it might be cheaper? I confess not to know about these types of firmware. Seems to go against the original OP ruling on not having hidden modes… Murphy’s law means at some point in the field modes get scrambled inadvertently. Let’s say by bored fidgeting play or grandma handing it to occupy a highly energetic grandchild as a plaything… Plus I rather like the idea of getting out a soldering iron smelling the flux to do something a little creative. Too much of our world is software driven with hidden menus and software driven software buttons that change. It slowly sends people mad. I hope this light to become a welcome antidote to this madness.
From a manufacturing standpoint though, it’s usually more cost-effective to use an existing system than design something new. Anduril is already out there and software is easy to test and tweak.
I could be wrong though. Sounds like it’s a moot point anyway.
Brainstorming ideas of where to locate usb port for seniors. Rubber flap might be hard to peel off by old folks. I also don’t like hiding it in the threads because thread grease will get all over grandma’s hands. Here are some ideas of where to put the USB-C port for reference.
I once saw a flashlight with exposed USB-c port that claims it doesn’t need to be sealed to be water proofed. I guess it uses the same approach as seen in cell phones.
