I didn’t measure the die size. I could have done that but it’s too late as it is mounted now. It is quite a bit smaller than the dedomed XHP50.2 and more like the die size of a SST40.
I’m waiting for a high CRI or 5000K version as well. It should have a rosy tint because the one I used is rather green.
At the moment I can’t take any measurements, only comparisons with other flashlights and beamshots. The hotspot and throw is similar to the FT03 SST40.
A light meter and a clamp meter are on the way, though. 
Not sure about that particular Olight SammysHP but most Batons (or the ones I have) are using the positive end of the cell at the tail of the light. Positive through the host body? This set up is a large reason I don’t have more Olight flashlights.
M21A , 6a Convoy driver Culnm1.tg
Yes, the host body is positive. Not a big issue as long as the heat shrink tube of the battery is intact.
I modded my s2+ driver to dual channel 1x 7135 + 10x 7135 and added an otc capacitor for the Blf a6 firmware by toykeeper. I removed one 7135 regulator from the 8x 7135 group by cutting its vcc track underneath the attiny13 and bridged it to pin 5 instead to create the new 1x 7135 group.
Cool mod. Really great photo too!
Do you know about HQ’s 10x driver board? You can swap all the parts over and use up to 10x7135 without stacking.
Nice work Catnap. 
WOW!
+1
Eagletac G25C2"diffuser":
g25c2host with p25lc2 diffuser circuit board and led's.
Awesome x1000 Hemionline 
I love the G25C2 to begin with. (One of my favorite looking lights and just the right size IMO)
Did a driver and FW mod on my H03 headlamp. I switched to a simple 8x7135 driver for the current regulation (I had a FET driver with TK’s old ramping UI prior to this). The driver is a 17mm qlite and I used a brass 17-to-22mm converter ring from convoy. I had to sand down the OD for it to fit, and I also sanded down the thickness a bit for a good fit.
I have put a lot of thought into what modes and UI is ideal for this light. I like the ability to start in low by pressing and holding and the ability to move up or down in brightness, which the ramping UI provides. Smooth ramping is nice especially in the lower modes where preserving your nightvision is important, but it’s not ideal in the higher modes when you are more concerned with managing runtime and/or heat. My solution for this light was to modify the ramping table to have smooth(ish) ramping from moonlight to around 40 lumens, then stepped ramping after that. Here’s the ramping table I used:
0,6,6,6,6,6,6,7,7,7,7,7,8,8,8,8,9,9,9,10,10,10,11,11,11,12,12,12,5,13,13,13,
13,13,13,13,13,13,13,13,46,46,46,46,46,46,46,46,
46,46,46,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,255,255
I like the hybrid ramping concept. It’s funny because just last night I switched my FW1A back and forth from stepped to smooth a couple of times. This would be nice to have…
Interesting solution, EasyB. I could see that being pretty nice. Might have to give it a shot sometime.
I can only assume the 5 between 12 and 13 is a typo.
That is there to let me know I’m at the top of the smooth ramp when I’m ramping up. Otherwise it’s easy to go too far and hit the much brighter next mode.
I put 219b sw35 from azhu to my D18. I had many problems along the way (such as uneven mcpcb) and everything went wrong (for example, hot air stopped working half way through), but somehow I got to the end. I wanted to do it by the end of last year, but well…
I know that some LEDs are not soldered evenly, but this is not visible under the tir.
Considering all adversities, I am very pleased.
MT18S sst20 4000k - D18 219b 3500k (frosted tir)
congrats on the mod!
very nice photos
I put a high power 395nm UV led from vestureofblood into a Sofirn SC31B https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/58092/32
CVP, that’s a complex job isn’t it? I did a friends and now will be redoing it with XP-L HI’s this coming week, I remember it was a tedious time consuming mod so hats off to you for sticking with it and getting a satisfying result.