What did you mod today?

Eagletac G25C2"diffuser":

g25c2host with p25lc2 diffuser circuit board and led's.

Awesome x1000 Hemionline :+1:

I love the G25C2 to begin with. (One of my favorite looking lights and just the right size IMO)

Did a driver and FW mod on my H03 headlamp. I switched to a simple 8x7135 driver for the current regulation (I had a FET driver with TK’s old ramping UI prior to this). The driver is a 17mm qlite and I used a brass 17-to-22mm converter ring from convoy. I had to sand down the OD for it to fit, and I also sanded down the thickness a bit for a good fit.

I have put a lot of thought into what modes and UI is ideal for this light. I like the ability to start in low by pressing and holding and the ability to move up or down in brightness, which the ramping UI provides. Smooth ramping is nice especially in the lower modes where preserving your nightvision is important, but it’s not ideal in the higher modes when you are more concerned with managing runtime and/or heat. My solution for this light was to modify the ramping table to have smooth(ish) ramping from moonlight to around 40 lumens, then stepped ramping after that. Here’s the ramping table I used:
0,6,6,6,6,6,6,7,7,7,7,7,8,8,8,8,9,9,9,10,10,10,11,11,11,12,12,12,5,13,13,13,
13,13,13,13,13,13,13,13,46,46,46,46,46,46,46,46,
46,46,46,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,127,255,255

I like the hybrid ramping concept. It’s funny because just last night I switched my FW1A back and forth from stepped to smooth a couple of times. This would be nice to have…

Interesting solution, EasyB. I could see that being pretty nice. Might have to give it a shot sometime.

I can only assume the 5 between 12 and 13 is a typo.

That is there to let me know I’m at the top of the smooth ramp when I’m ramping up. Otherwise it’s easy to go too far and hit the much brighter next mode.

I put 219b sw35 from azhu to my D18. I had many problems along the way (such as uneven mcpcb) and everything went wrong (for example, hot air stopped working half way through), but somehow I got to the end. I wanted to do it by the end of last year, but well…
I know that some LEDs are not soldered evenly, but this is not visible under the tir.
Considering all adversities, I am very pleased.

MT18S sst20 4000k - D18 219b 3500k (frosted tir)

congrats on the mod!
very nice photos

I put a high power 395nm UV led from vestureofblood into a Sofirn SC31B https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/58092/32

CVP, that’s a complex job isn’t it? I did a friends and now will be redoing it with XP-L HI’s this coming week, I remember it was a tedious time consuming mod so hats off to you for sticking with it and getting a satisfying result. :+1:

I modded an old-style recoil thrower today, a clone of the Ultrafire WF-008, from aliexpress, thread here: Re-visiting the Q5 recoil thrower: mod with a a White Flat

Neat! I’m eager to read up on that. :beer:

Wanted to get longer run time and what do you know the Astrolux battery tube screws straight on. Acebeams battery carriers will not fit in the tube and the Astrolux battery carriers and spacer/connector are about 5mm to long. so you have to mod the battery carriers to 4s and I took the 5mm of the spacer/connector.

CRX CuTi Atom Triple Nichia 219C 5000K - Lexel TA Driver - 18350 - E-Tail Sw - 2200lm.

CRX CuTi 18350 1A Pocket Charger.

Swapped and sliced an LH351D into a BLF A6. First time to do any modding. Used some standard office staple wires instead of washers as a slicing guide since I don’t have any around. Used 2 staple wires to be exact and it seems like it did the job well but YMMV. I double checked the clearance first so I don’t hit the phosphor.

EDIT: see underlined.

Nice work! While you don’t want to chip the phosphor (UV blue leakage) it’s the bond wires you really want to avoid in most cases. I find that the LB351D doesn’t actually respond well to slicing. YMMV

I sliced a 5000k LH351D and ended up with great results. Dropped the CCT by a few hundred kelvin, I’d estimate it to sit around 4400-4500k and doesn’t appear to be green.

The 5000K dogfart led is the best for slicing IMO, only limited output loss and great tint improvement by decreasing the duv.

I would worry a bit about that conductive spacer you used :frowning:

I thought that too but i’m pretty sure they meant they used it as a slicing guide :slight_smile: