I dont have the equipment to measure lumens however with my ceiling bounce test it blew away other flashlights that Iāve tested before. The outdoor performance was amazing too, itās significantly brighter than anything else Iāve tested. I cant be sure that it is above 5,000 but it wouldnāt surprise me if it was thereabouts. What batteries did your friend use?
Iām interested in lexels response. But just my opinion if lexel says it underperforms I believe him 100% that guy knows his stuff. And has contributed so much info to this forum. Even if yours made 4000 lumens 5500 wouldnāt seem a whole lot brighter to the naked eye. Even if he used crappy cells which I highly highly doubt. For test everyone uses high drain cells. Even with crappy cells as long as they can do 4 or 5 amps it would power it long enough for 30 seconds on Max. I doubt itās drawing more then 20 amps. Probably not that much.
From what Iāve seen on other lights from imalent they never reach their specs. Look for yourself on the last 4 or so high powered lights. Iād still like to own this one though even if it under performs. Iām sure lexel could design me a driver for it. Itās just to expensive right now. When the mt07s can hit 5000 lumens for 46 dollars. And has 4s driver in it. Which means it gives that 5000 lumens until the light shuts off. The voltage never drops low enough to not provide full power. Like with 2s2p drivers. The one thing I like about this head is bigger and the bezel isnāt glued with a shaved dome and a lexels driver this light has major potential to be a monster. Like 7000 to 9000 lumen monster
You questioned whether/not it be AR-coated glass. If itās hideously green, it likely is.
I actually donāt use some lights anymore because of that sickly green tint. It nasty.
But yeah, while Iām not so much a ātint snobā (getting there, but not quite yet), I despise green-tints. Itās even worse than Angry Blueā¢ or Angry Purpleā¢.
So, yeah, green is a sore point to a lot of people, myself included. It could ruin an otherwise amazing light.
Dunno about anyone else, but I get squeamish with even a 2S arrangement in an L2 using unprotected cells. 4S seems that much more to go off-balance with whatever cell might be the weak link. And protection needs to be high-amperage to not also be the limiting factor.
Not as bad as you think. Iāve had a cell not make contact and it ran off 3 cells. Before I removed those spacers it just effected the run time. Unless your over heating the cells to 150c all that will happen is shortened run time. The driver wonāt get enough voltage it runs what it can until it canāt. I had to remove the spacers to get proper contact sometimes only 2 would make connection when it dropped out of turbo in a couple minutes I could tell something was wrong. Cells werenāt anything past warm they just gave what they could. Lithium is safer then people give it credit for. Worst case scenario for your name brand cell is a vent, no flame or explosion. Direct short no flame or explosion. Over charged at 12v and 10 amps for hours same result. Heated to 150c for hours at 5c per minute no flame no explosion. Shaken violently and dropped on oak boards. Crushed laterally and vertically. No flame or explosion. Every spec sheet has the results of the test for the cell. Pretty much have to throw them in fire. Get them around 450 degrees Fahrenheit and youāll get a nice bang. So I donāt worry to much. Even with my 2 series 6 amp L2 with dedomed xpl v6 1a Just stick with name brand cell that have gone through the united nations regulations for safety.
Example people freak out when a cell goes to 2.5 or lower. Most LG cells get there mah rating by being discharged to 2.0 volt. In the 25r spec sheet they pulse discharge it at 30,45,60,95 amps and do a cycle life test and they discharge it to 1.5volts each cycle. Iāve recovered hundreds of 1v cells out of tool packs as well with no problem use them a couple hundred cycles and recycle them back. The hype doesnāt live up the real life. When there is a incident they make as much hype they can about it. And itās āusuallyācheap old technology Chinese cells that cut corners andbhave no cid or ptc inside the cell. Even with the dangerous Chinese cells. To only have a handful on instances yearly to the amount of lithium batteries and devices is less then a .001 failure rate. To the billions of batteries made yearly
The only cell Iāve had a problem with was a Imedion nihm with about 30 cycles on it. Turned my nitecore ea41 on low about 2 seconds later it vented and bubbled my switch up. Iām talking the lowest mode the moon light from off button. I was pissed and never bought that brand again.
Iām not concerned about having a Li cell go supernova, mainly just ruining it and making me buy a new one. :confounded:
Figure if anything, itād just vent and blow out the switch-button or something.
I never understood the big fuss about how far a cell gets discharged when rating its capacity. Iāve watched my almighty and not-quite-almighty chargers run down a cell for hours as it hangs in the upper-3s for so long, but from 3.2V on, it nosedives, and from 3.0V down, I can actually watch the voltage-readings decrease in realtime. So out of, say, 3000mAH cutting off at 2.8V, discharging it a whopping 2min more down to 2.5V (or 2.0V) might scare up a few dozen mAH, but thatās it. To me, itās statistical noise.
But, after having weak-link alkaleaks take a dump in my lights after getting reverse-charged, etc., I just plain donāt want to brick a perfectly good Li cell by running it down so far. A Crapfire cell, who cares?, but a nice shiny 30Q or VTC6? Nah.
HELLO ,I WRITE FROM ITALY ,SO I BUY THIS FLASHLIGHT A FEW WEEKS AGO AND I SEE AFTER A FEW DAY , THAT WHEN I USE TURBO MODE THE FLASHLIGHT TURNS OFF!!! I WANT TO ASK YOU INSTEAD IMALENT ORIGINAL BATTERIES ,WHAT OTHER BATTERIES I CAN USE TO REPLACE THE ORIGINAL IMALENT 3000MAH 15 A =?MORE POWERFUL =?
The Imalent batteries are really more than powerful enough for the single XHP70.2 emitter. The cells (Samsung 30Q) are 15A rated, but can handle more current for a brief moment.
I think you have a problem with the flashlight if it cannot stay in turbo mode, not with the batteries.
I assume batteries are fully charged. Maybe some batteriesā protection kicked in because voltage is too low. You could check individual battery voltage just to be sure. But there is unfortunately also the possibility that the light is faulty.
ORIGINAL BATTERIES IMALENT THAT ARE BUTTON TOP !I CHARGE IT WITH NITECORE UM4 CHARGER NOT WITH THE CHARGER ORIGINAL MAGNETIC ā¦.BUT IT SEEMS THAT WHEN I AM INSIDE HOME TURBO WORK ,BUT OUTSIDE IT TURN OFF
I CAN TRY TO CLEAN WITH ALCOHOL ,I DONāT UNDERSTAND WHY ONLY TURBO MODE GET PROBLEM , INSTEAD IN THE 3 4 MODE NO PROBLEM , I āD LIKE TO TRY OTHER BATTERIES !!!