Do you mean that there might be some blades more interesting than #10, #21, #22 that fit some of the mentioned handles or some other interesting handles?
Yeah, but my Ladybug is already a bit too small when I want to cut myself a loaf of bread. Or spread something on that loaf. When I think about having less than half the blade length I just don’t think it’s a good idea for me.
OTOH my knife is never scalpel-sharp. And sometimes when I don’t have time to sharpen it I am really disappointed with how it cuts. That’s why I’m considering compromising blade length even more.
The knife finally arrived. Indeed, it does have a frame lock. HEAVY! More than I expected. But not all that bad. Sure was oily. But better that than bone dry & needing lubricant. Excellent finishing of the frame. Works well. Clip was a little loose but easily tightened. Very sharp edge. Overall, I like it much.
I bought a CH3507 knife, and wanted to detach the clip. Unscrewed the two clip screws without problem and removed the clip. Screwed back the first screw, nice, now the problem. Then, trying to put back the 2nd screw, it tightens up completely going in only halfway, and is now impossible to get off. If I try to unscrew that screw, the screw on the other side of the handle loosens, because they share the same hole and are somehow connected by a small hallow bolt. The right screw just turns around when trying to unscrew it, and is impossible to get off. Is there a trick to get it off? Will I need to dismantle the whole knife?
I wouldn’t doubt it’s layered steel, maybe 8Cr13MoV with something alike.
The Enlan EL01 Damascus I had came with the same looks.
Of course it can be layered with D2, not a big thing these days.
If there’s a pic with 2 damascus blades on it you can say if it’s “real” or just (laser or acid) etched.
If the pattern looks the same then it’s just etched, if they are different then it should be layered steel.
Also the spine should have the visible core.
It really makes no difference in use to an all D2 blade when it has a cutting core or layer.
I tried that, holding the 2nd screw with a Torx while unscrewing the 1st screw, then only the 2nd screw comes out, while the 1st still in same position. I’m unable to get the 1st screw both longer in and further out, its totally locket in that position. Think I will need to dismantle the knife, getting out the bolt with with that screw, and then try to get it loose.
Then you’ll need to disassemble the knife so you can access and hold the barrel while you’re untying the screw.
Although, if it is that stuck, there is a chance you will strip or break the screw.
Once dismantled, I would try to hold the screw in a vise and try to rotate the barrel using locking pliers maybe?
Odd, I have a few CH knives and never had any issue with them.
Use a soldering iron to heat up the screw so you can melt the loctite, still you may damage the barrel if you need to grip it with pliers, might want to try some thin leather on either side of the jaws