Just got my if25 and it really is a great light. Very small for a 21700 light, the tint ramping/mixing is very nice and what I’ve been waiting for. The 6500K SST20s are very green in the low modes but that’s expected I guess and that’s only on the upper end of the tint ramp. The middle mix tints are nice because of the mix. I think I’ll replace the leds with CRI90 3000K and 5700K 219Cs. The nitecore 34mm diffuser fits well and the output is very stable and well regulated. This should make a lovely photo/video light.
I can’t decide if this makes Sofirn my favorite, or most hated manufacturer. It’s awesome, but now I need to buy a bunch of new flashlights with interesting emitters.
I was looking at this light and it would be great for a lot that I do, but as with the SP40, no moonlight mode. Aux LED in red would be nice too, but that may raise the price. I think a moonlight mode would get me to order this right away. A good consistent regulated mode is way more useful than a turbo mode that only lasts a few minutes for a headlamp. I read the specs and it says “LOW” mode is 70lm. Too bright. Maybe add a moonlight mode, and make the highest 850 lumens, and just forget about the 1200?
Some folks are swapping the MCU to run RampingIOS. This is inexpensive. I think there are also replacement drivers to run Anduril as well, but that’s not so inexpensive.
Yup, I’ve shipped out several pre-flashed MCUs with RampingIOS (D4 V2 UI) and they are very inexpensive. Makes a decent cheap headlamp quite a bit better. Been doing the same thing with the Convoy H1 (my preference though admittedly slightly more expensive).
For me to H1 will work but for friends that may not have li-ion chargers then the USB charging of the SP40 works good. So with a preflashed MCU, you just desolder the old one and replace with new MCU. Are there instructions with images on what to replace? I’d love to give it a try. I have a SP40 and H1 on the way.
Unfortunately I gave my SP40 to a co-worker before I had a chance to try swapping MCUs on it. So I just have ones for the D25 (and some D10) and the H1. It’s too bad because the SP40 is a pretty nice headlamp. I’m not a big fan of the button position (on the end) but that’s minor. Oh, and some of the UI. And the driver, which appears to be current-limiting resistor setup where output continuously drops linearly with voltage.
Based on these images (not mine) the MCU also appears to be a 14-pin PIC. So short a complete driver swap, I’m afraid I’ll leave the SP40 right where it’s at
Both the D25 and H1 are pretty easy to swap in a new MCU. And the H1 has a nice linear regulator. The D25 is a current-limiting resistor jobber, but that’s expected at this price point I guess. Apologies for derailing a Sofirn thread, but here’s my info on the H1 (and here’s my review of the SP40 and the D25 (not D25S) for fairness/completeness).
I have not actually changed an MCU, but it doesnt look hard. I doubt you can unsolder it. I would use hot air or just cut the legs. Then you can solder the new one on. It is a simple remove and replace.
To remove the original and keep it intact with just a solder iron seems tricky. Maybe if you wick all the old solder out and then heat one leg at a time while lifting it up you can get it removed.
I remove them with a soldering iron and small flat screwdriver. While lightly prying up with the screwdriver, run the iron up and down the legs on one side until the lift up. Then grasp the MCU with tweezers and then run the iron on the other side to lift it up completely. It’s not too bad.
But are you shure these XHP50.2 are real 5000K emitters?
Do you have an order code or exact binning of these emitters?
I have bought some of them from cutter.au binned in 3B color tint and they are warmer and less green than on my Astrolux EC01 5000K, which is produced in your factory.
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