Tear Down: Manker E02 / E02H (same as E03H)

Use some of those Led4power alu boards.
They’re almost as good as DTP.
Not sure what he still has in stock though, but i assume he has something useful.

I wrote a letter to them but no reaction. :cry:
Maybe the ordering function still works but first I wanted to know whether these ceramic plates can be reshaped by chipping ( like copper DTPs ) or not?
Because it is required for the lamp I want to mod.
The led shelf is anodized anyway, so I think I can use a normal DTP and it is not a problem if the base not on ground potential.

Bought mine from the clearance sale and just played with it today. Anyone experience the light flickering when turned on at moonlight mode? Usually happens when I leave it for a few minutes then turn it on again, no definite time just leave it and turn it on again. Cleaned the contacts and tightened what I can. Only experienced in moonlight mode. It just might be my battery though, will try some fresh ones tomorrow. Sharing to hear some thoughts as well. If it matters, it’s the XPG3 emitter.

My Nichia one does that, it’s only on level 21/21 in engineering mode though. If I set moonlight to any others (I use 20) its fine.

Mine has this too, and not only in the highest moon mode, but i think the brighter half of the moon levels start up with a bit of a flash.
Otherwise no flickering, only that small flash when turning it on.
The driver does this.
Skilhunt H03 (for example) does this too when going from OFF to the brighter of the 2 settings for the lowest mode.

at what battery voltage do you get flickering?
that may be a useful reminder to recharge… a form of Low Voltage warning… :slight_smile:

Just received a Red E02 w 219c
using an eneloop, that is down to 1.24 volts atm

I just checked all 21 modes by eye, and by camera
zero visible flicker, zero photographable flicker, Im impressed

zero dots when waving to test for PWM… all good!

set to the minimum

E02, Moonlight Mode Champion

No flickering on my E03H on any mode. I have moonlight set to 20/21 I think.

Thanks for sharing. Also managed to take my e03H apart despite having tried numerous times in the last year or so. Just needed the right tool to remove the retaining ring which was really really tight compared to my e02. My e02 from clearance now has some 219b sw45k. Still can’t decide what to put in the e03 though.

nice!
what was your strategy to reflow without issues from the nearby components?

To remove I just clipped on the board with the led facing up and used a lighter to heat the copper slab and a tweezer ready to take out the led as soon as it’s possible. For reflowing, still used the same heating method but being extra careful not to overheat and/or knock anything out of place. Used the same method with a nitecore HC60 and YLP Panda 3R and so far I haven’t fucked up yet.

Sweet!
seems heating the copper is the secret
thank you

would probably work on a hotplate too…

notice I have not said anything about using hot air from above the LED (…. dont mention it) :wink:

I’ll check when I get home. Haven’t played with my engineering mode yet as well so I’ll check on that too.

EDIT: My battery is at 1.2 volts so I don’t know if it’s related to that. Changed the engineering mode to a lower level. IIRC it was at 20/21 though out of the box. I was distracted by how low it could get I lost count. Don’t experience flickering so far.

I wouldn’t do it with a hot plate.
I think it’s better / safer to heat up the copper chunk from the back with a soldering iron (that’s how i did it too).
With a hot plate all the air above the plate will be hot and you could risk desoldering other parts.

Sorry, maybe not the best place for my question.

A new E02 w/ Nichia only works when I hold the button (switch on after 1 sec or so). I checked w/ another batteries, and it's not in lockout, tried on another E02 the lockout doesn't have momentary mode. Sent mail to Manker too, but I think the answer will be after Chinese New Year.

Tried to tear apart, but can't loosen the head from the body (by hand w/ some rubber to increase friction). I there any method to reset (like in Anduril)?

sorry to hear
mine works both ways

from off
a short single click gives the moonlight mode

also from off
holding the button gives last mode memory (low or medium)

Im not aware of any reset feature.

question:
is it possible you cant tell the light is on, from single click, because it goes to such a low mode that you cant see it during the day? (try a single click from off in a dark room… now can you see the LED is on?)

Thank you!

No, I can't notice any light after a single click.

Does anybody know if there’s any TIR lens options out there for the eo2?

try changing the moonlight mode to another brightness level
(engineering mode)

good idea, let us know if you find out what to order

I got the idea because I also ordered a knockoff nitecore tini and it is fairly close to the same size.

Decided on 219b sw45k on the e02 and 2700K sst20 on the e03h as headlamp and mini lantern with the diffuser. Photos below (~5500K WB)

Moonlight mode

E03 (SST20 2700K) without diffuser and e02 (219B 4500K)

E03 with diffuser and e02

Went through my box of yajiamei optics to try on the e02. The 13mm with stent removed I used for the Panda 3 is the right height but too narrow so cannot place o-rings in between optics and glass lens.

Also tried this 16mm. I removed the stent and sanded down to fit the interior of the bezel and it fit ok. Without the centering ring it fits with the glass lens but beam is not so nice (with doughnut hole). With the centering ring it fits without the lens and the beam is pretty nice and as it shoud be for beaded tir. But I did notice a drop in output so I checked. @ turbo with old eneloops I was getting ~140 lumens with the stock reflector and only ~100 lumens with the optics. So decided to keep the reflector since I also like the 219b + small OP beam for its purpose.